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RE: Your advise please.
Very nice fabrication, good job! A couple of thoughts:
- if you incorporate a spring design, you might want to look at a heavy duty spring like: http://www.cattlestore.com/p-552-gallagher-heavy-duty-tension-spring.aspx
We use these springs on our electric fencing and they are rugged.
- While the checker plate steps look great, I'd place some stick-on anti-slip material on them. They look like they'll be really slick with water or ice on them. http://www.heskins.com/prod01.htm
- if you are planning on traveling on a ferry (such as in Puget Sound), they charge you for the total length of the camper, including the porch extension.
Bob
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MTBob
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01/01/10 07:22pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Looking@ Bigfoot camper
Check this link:
http://www2.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/mash.cgi?cat=cprv&itm=bigfoot&loc=&fil=&ys=&ye=&submit=++++go++++
You can adjust the search criteria at the top of the page. It's a buyer's market. Like buying a house, if you are buying a used camper, as part of the cost of ownership, be sure to recognize and negotiate repair and replacement costs.
Also, search this forum for references to people that have also been looking for used campers.
Bob
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MTBob
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12/24/09 02:38pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Southern Utah’s Highway 12
..
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MTBob
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12/20/09 09:27pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Southern Utah’s Highway 12
Great photos & stories, thanks. This route looks like a perfect place to wander around and get nearly lost. It's on my go-to list.
I may have missed it, but when did you travel this route?
June, 2009
If anone would like to see more of the trip see Land of Standing Rocks on my gallery;
http://clattertruck.smugmug.com/
Wow, you are one great travel guide. Your photo albums are simply fantastic. I've just completed traveling your trips via the photos and now want to retrace your footsteps with our camper. The captions you put on the photos are very nicely done, great job!
Bob
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MTBob
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12/20/09 02:56pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Southern Utah’s Highway 12
Great photos & stories, thanks. This route looks like a perfect place to wander around and get nearly lost. It's on my go-to list.
I may have missed it, but when did you travel this route?
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MTBob
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12/20/09 08:04am |
Truck Campers
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Reflections of a Summer Past - A Newbie's Photo Story
I thought I'd take a moment during the holiday season, with temperatures here recently dipping as low as -23F, to reflect on our past summer as Truck Camper newbies. Hopefully you'll find these photos a welcome mid winter break. As important, I wanted to share our experiences with you'all as a way of saying thanks for all the help you've offered during the past year in this forum. Without your support I'm sure our first time camping adventures would not have been nearly so much fun.
It's been a whirlwind year. Bought our first camper in June, did some minor fix'in and hit the road. To sum up our state of mind when it came to using a TC... we were clueless... just about as dumb as a box of rocks. Since then we've traveled in excess of 3,000 miles and 30 nights. We've now found a few clues and our rock box is a bit smarter. By way of photos here's our story:
We took our first venture in the camper by going on a bone jarring trip through Red Rock Lake area just west of Henry's Lake Idaho, over the continental divide, through the Lemhi Valley and camped on the Salmon River in Idaho... looking for roads less traveled - our general objective with this camper.
Coke Ovens, Lemhi Valley
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/2009SalmonRiverLemhiValleyIdaho4.jpg
Salmon River
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/2009SalmonRiverLemhiValleyIdaho10.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/2009SalmonRiverLemhiValleyIdaho15.jpg
After a couple of fishing excursions and some not so minor refurbishing of the Happijacs, we decided to head off on a longer venture to Vancouver Island and upper B.C. Canada.
Our first of many ferry rides in B.C.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August165.jpg
Darn near lost on a logging road in western Vancouver Island... just where we like to be ... darn near lost...
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August31.jpg
Western Vancouver island
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August41.jpg
Then off to see the currents around the islands between Vancouver island and the mainland, near Campbell River:
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/IMG_0061.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/IMG_0142.jpg
And the spectacle of the BC coast
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/IMG_0163.jpg
Then across B.C. heading north past Kamloops Lake going to Jasper Park
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August231.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August201.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August251.jpg
Jasper Park - An amazing place
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August262.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August289.jpg
Honeymoon Lake, Jasper Park
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August383.jpg
Athabasca Glacier, Ice Field Parkway, Jasper Park
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August425.jpg
More Glaciers in Jasper Park
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August427.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CanadaBCTrip2009August411.jpg
Then off on another trip through southern Idaho
City of Rocks Park
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/CityofRocksIdaho42.jpg
Bear Lake
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/BearLakeIdaho3.jpg
Teton Mountains from Idaho, looking east, near Ashton
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/JacksonTetonsIdaho2.jpg
Warm River Springs, near Mesa Falls - the perfect camp site, at the end of 15 miles of dirt road, no one else around...
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/WarmRiverSprings2.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc317/rcjulian/WarmRiverSprings.jpg
So, there you have it in a few photo highlights. By any measure we've enjoyed the camper and now look forward to another year of finding roads less traveled.
Bob
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MTBob
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12/19/09 04:09pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: OK, the guy lied to me!!
My recently purchased (Ebay from S Dakota) 1988 Northstar pop up was supposed to weigh 1060#. I even confirmed that it was not a typo with the seller on the phone.
Hit the scales today with me, full gas and propane, bedding, pots, pans and dishes, no water.
1600#. :M 200 over on GVWR with 150 over on rear axle but 500 light on front axle. Being an 8' camper on a short box and with these weights the COG is obviously behind the rear axle. The 15 gallon water tank is up against the rear of the cab so that should help a little. I am also installing a battery beside the tank.
I will tear off my newly built basement with storage (about 50#) and make a spacer I need for clearance out of foam.
I have all ready replaced the P tires with LTs. I will just have to make do packing light until I can afford a lighter camper or a real truck!! :M
The Ford garage has been no help at all. They can not tell me what constitutes the heavy haul package for the F150. If it is the same rear axle with better suspension and tires or if it is a bigger axle than my 9 3/4. I know some of the 4.7s get a smaller axle than mine. 8.8?
Where does a guy get those foam spacers?
Thanks........DJ
Darrell, sorry to hear about this "surprise". Since I've not had to face the COG issue, help me understand a couple of things:
- how did you conclude your COG was behind the rear axle, and
- why does removing your basement change the COG location front to back?
Also, is the weakest item in your suspension the axle capacity or the tire capacity? Can you gain extra hauling capacity by adding E rated tires? The reason I ask these questions is that I found out that a Dodge 2500 has the same axle capacity as a 3500. The hauling capacity is largely determined by the tire capacity. Of course the handling performance is determined by springs, air bags, overloads, sway bars, etc.
I gotta believe there is a solution to this other than changing trucks or campers.
Bob
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MTBob
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12/16/09 09:13pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Battery Warmer - Alternate Ideas?
One of my AGMs is inside... but we don't keep the camper 77 degrees.
The cabin gets even cooler overnight and so does the inside battery.
You are on the right track though.
sleepy
Out of curiosity why haven't you moved the other AGM battery side the cabin? Is it due to a space limitation?
Bob
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MTBob
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12/14/09 09:53am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Battery Warmer - Alternate Ideas?
Well, what started off as a simple question sure has gotten the attention of a bunch of folks and turned into a serious techno-free-for-all of some serious battery knowledge. Wow, great fun. At this point I'm beginning to get a bit over-charged with information. So back to basics for a moment.
Let me ask the obvious question - and, forgive me if I've missed this in the previous 126 posts. Rather than trying to defy heat loss related to mounting batteries in locations where they are subjected to outside temperatures, why not simply use AGM batteries and mount them in the TC cabin? There have been a number of posts about potential locations. Yes, I know, there is some concern about off-gassing, but that can be addressed with vent tubes to the outside of the camper. While the TC is being used, the inside cabin temperature should be within a range suitable for human comfort, and that is generally the range in which batteries seem to operate best. So why not simply forget all the lead acid, outside compartment warming issues and and locate batteries in an environment where they operate best - inside?
BTW: I can't count how many battery & related technical tips I've picked up from this thread, what a great source of information - thanks!
Bob
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MTBob
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12/13/09 03:55pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Converter swap ??
I did the PD conversion also on my 2002 Northern Lite, 10-2000, replacing a Magnatek 6300 series charger. If you do this upgrade, here are a couple of thoughts:
- check the size of your cable from the charger to the battery, it should be #4 or larger. I increased size from #8 to #4.
- consider installing a Trimetric meter & shunt.
- and, depending on the cover over your charger, consider placing a plexiglass light tube through the cover so you can see the indicator light on the charge wizard. see: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23287289.cfm
MTBob
How difficult was it to install the larger wire from the charger to the bateries. I am about to purchase a 4645 or a 4655. I currently have a 45 amp charger in my 10-2. Randy said to check the wire sizes before going to a 55 amp charger. If it's a major project to route those new wires I will stay with the 45 amp charger.
Rick
Not that big a deal in my case. In my 10-2000RR I gained access to the area where the battery cable runs by removing the stove. In my camper configuration removing the stove gains access to the cable run. It's not hard to get the stove out, about 4 (6?) screws and disconnecting the gas line. For other reasons I also removed the sink, that helped - the battery box is under the sink, so having the sink out helped gain direct access to the battery box. But, it's not that difficult to run a new cable without removing the sink.
One of the sort of hard things to do is bend the #4 cable inside the distribution box to fit into the cable connectors on the board. It helps to solder (tin) the copper conductor before bending the cable and inserting it into the connector. Again, not too big a deal, but you need to be careful with stress on the cable since the connectors are mounted on a printed circuit board. At the battery box you will want to buy some heavy duty crimp on lugs, sized for the cable you are installing.
I purchased the cable from a NAPA dealer, if I recall it was about 50cents/foot. I also labeled each end of the cable with it's polarity, just to confirm it. After I purchased my cable I read a post that said it may be cheaper to buy welding lead cable - and that cable may be more flexible. In any case try to find a cable that has insulation that is pliable (not a hard shell insulation) so the cable can be bent easily. The NAPA dealer that I bought the cable from let me take a full box of cable and then charged me for only that portion that I used, refunding the cost of the unused wire.
If you are going to do this cable upgrade, and I recommend it - then consider installing a battery monitoring meter like the Trimetric. If you do that you will also need to install a shunt in (or near) the battery box. Again, that's not a big deal, it just needs to be mounted firmly and in a place that the bare negative lugs are aren't liable to be shorted to a positive lead.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I can forward photos if it helps.
bob
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MTBob
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12/12/09 08:39am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Digital Voltmeter or Battery Monitor?
Keep in mind that part of the Trimetric installation includes a shunt. It's across this shunt that the amperage draw is measured. You'll find some great shunt installation pics if you do a search. When I upgraded my charger to a PD, I decided that part of the "cost of doing business" with the camper was monitoring the battery condition... just part of the deal. To a large extent I made this purchasing decision because of the recommendations from folks on this website.
And, oh by the way - just for full disclosure, I just installed the charger and Trimetric units and have absolutely no experience with either, but boy do they look cool! Once I take the camper on it's next voyage, I'm sure I'll have a bunch of questions about the Trimetric setup.
Bob
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MTBob
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12/10/09 02:23pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Converter swap ??
The 4600 series has charge wizard built in now. It has an LED on the new fuse board that indicates the three charge levels.
Right, it's that LED on the fuse board that you can't see when the panel cover is closed. The blink rate of the LED tells you what the status is on the Charge Wizard. By inserting a piece of plexiglass rod through the cover the LED blink rate can be observed without opening the cover.
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MTBob
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12/10/09 09:55am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Converter swap ??
I did the PD conversion also on my 2002 Northern Lite, 10-2000, replacing a Magnatek 6300 series charger. If you do this upgrade, here are a couple of thoughts:
- check the size of your cable from the charger to the battery, it should be #4 or larger. I increased size from #8 to #4.
- consider installing a Trimetric meter & shunt.
- and, depending on the cover over your charger, consider placing a plexiglass light tube through the cover so you can see the indicator light on the charge wizard. see: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23287289.cfm
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MTBob
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12/09/09 06:34pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: 12 volt Ground Location
Help clarify this for me: I did a quick "NEC 551" google search and it appears that this portion of the code applies to RV Parks (electric distribution system within the park), not the RV's that park there. Is that correct?
Also, I think that Section 551 and/or 552 may apply also to trailers in trailer parks, addressing only the AC service. But, what I'm trying to figure out is what code or standard applies specifically to a mobile RV, from a Truck Camper to a Class A, in which there is both a DC and AC system supplying power to the unit. It is this commingling of DC and AC that I'm addressing in this thread.
Also, another point of clarification (I think) is that the title I placed on this tread may be misleading. As I mentioned earlier, the use of the word "ground" and "neutral" apply to an AC circuit. The use of the word "negative" applies to one leg of a DC circuit. Perhaps I should have titled this thread something like "Should there be an interconnection between an AC ground and the DC negative circuit". That is the real question that I initially had (and the question addressed in a number of posts). From reading the posts it appears that there are some differences in opinion about whether the DC negative lead should be connected to the AC Neutral and, according to NEC, also connected to the ground buss. That's why I'm interested in seeing if there is a code or standard that specifically addresses the joint use of AC and DC systems in a mobile RV.
BTW: there are some great comments and references in this thread, thanks to all of you for pitching in.
Bob
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MTBob
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12/09/09 09:36am |
Truck Campers
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RE: 12 volt Ground Location
Just out of curiosity, does NEC apply to recreational vehicles? Or, are there another codes or standards that apply?
Bob
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MTBob
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12/08/09 10:34pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Maine, friendly 'parking' for TC's, need update.
In a previous life, we traveled to a very cool place off the Maine coast, Vinalhaven Island. What a hoot, we took the afternoon ferry to the island. After the ferry went back to the mainland, discovered that no one was suppose to stay overnight on the island without prior permission. Well, considering our pickup wasn't configured for water crossings, we opted to stay on the island much to the disgust of the residents. After some neighborly chit chat, we got along fine with the local folks, but they sure weren't to keen on our intrusion into their world.
Visiting the island off the Maine coast is really interesting... if you follow the rules...
BobHaving spent many days and nights on Vinalhaven, I find it amazing that you went to an island without having a return ticket and no idea that that was the last ferry. Islands like this are not set up for overnight visitors, they do not have stores like you are used to seeing shoreside. Parking at the ferry parking overnight would not be a problem, but where else? no malls, hardly any stores and they do not have hours like you see shoreside. No mcdonalds, no 7 -11. Great places to visit though, although that ferry ride can be a bit nasty in the middle of winter.
You are right it was rather amazing... but, hey, it was the 60's and stranger things were happening... at least the parts I can remember.
Bob
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MTBob
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12/08/09 10:26pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Maine, friendly 'parking' for TC's, need update.
In a previous life, we traveled to a very cool place off the Maine coast, Vinalhaven Island. What a hoot, we took the afternoon ferry to the island. After the ferry went back to the mainland, discovered that no one was suppose to stay overnight on the island without prior permission. Well, considering our pickup wasn't configured for water crossings, we opted to stay on the island much to the disgust of the residents. After some neighborly chit chat, we got along fine with the local folks, but they sure weren't to keen on our intrusion into their world.
Visiting the island off the Maine coast is really interesting... if you follow the rules...
Bob
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MTBob
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12/08/09 05:42pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Forest Service proposal to reduce senior discount
I must be blind...cannot find the place to make a comment.
it was in a previous post
http://www.regulations.gov/search/Regs/home.html#submitComment?R=0900006480a60f36
No doubt, the thinking that goes into this kind of public policy making is: 1) create a public policy that serves the government's personal interests (aka, lobbyists, political contributors and power brokers), 2) encourage public participation as a charade to make people think that what they say is important and the "government is listening", it's called "co-opting the public's participation", 3) design the public input process to frustrate anyone who may hear about a proposal (using a complicated comment method), and 4) then finally simply ignore any comments and do what the lobbyists, political contributors and the self serving bureaucrats want to do.
Make no mistake, this proposal is a done deal. Our comments, for the above reasons, will have absolutely no impact. But, in keeping with the intent of policy makers, we'll all feel better about having said something. But, hey... I could be wrong.
Bob
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MTBob
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12/05/09 12:02pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Forest Service proposal to reduce senior discount
Oh, the web we weave...
The DW and I had a lively debate on this subject this morning. It's all about taxes and politics. Her (obviously distorted) view says that if you can afford a camper you can afford to pay the fee, i.e. an argument based on means testing (sound familiar). She thinks that 30 year old parents of a family of four should be afforded a price break, not some old geezer that owns a $100,000 camper.
On the other hand I say (with great conviction) that the owner of a (say Class A) camper has worked hard, earned much and paid a ton of taxes during their working life. Thus, at a time when seniors are now on a fixed (and eroding) income, they should be rewarded for their contribution to society by paying less for selected public services. Paying less for campgrounds, fishing and hunting licenses are a few examples of how our society rewards those who have lived long enough to have paid their fair share of public service costs.
Bob
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MTBob
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12/05/09 11:33am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Battery Warmer - Alternate Ideas?
Hi all,
I believe attempting to use "cabin air" to warm the compartment is a serious mistake. It is, imho, unsafe. Even with AGM batteries the potential is there for outgassing. There are also serious questions as to whether even a dedicated heat outlet from the furnace would regulate the temperature without overheating the inside of the RV. It could be done by having two "zones" on the furnace, but that will be pricey and the furnace would be operating in a very inefficient manner when heating the few cubic feet of space for the battery box.
Clearly trying to keep the batteries warm by using electricity from them is going to be a short term effort, especially if the target is 25 C (77 f). The draw for heating is in the ballpark of 7 amps, so after ten hours even a 125 amp hour battery is going to be below the 50% limit, assuming 100% duty cycle for the heat source, and no other loads.
Do not forget that the battery boxes are all vented to the "great outdoors", so that is, in effect, what we are trying to heat. This limits heating to either some sort of radiant or physical contact heating system.
Therefore some external power supply (a generator or shore power), or combustion type heater (a catalytic based hand warmer?) are the options. The chemical based hand/foot warmers might work but even at 50 cents each the costs will soon make them prohibitively expensive--and there is no way to regulate the heat.
One other possible, but labor intensive way, to keep the box warm might be to use "freezer" packs. They are equally capable of storing heat and could be warmed by placing them in the top of a double boiler on the stove. It would be annoying to have to go outside in the deep cold, open the battery box and "pack" them around the batteries. Many would be needed in any low temperature situation, and again there is no way to regulate the heat.
Another source is a decent solar system. So long the system is designed so there is sufficient storage for 3 days at the lowest temperature that an RV is likely to experience without going below 50% state of charge, it is nearly perfect.
The rub is that there may not be sufficient storage space for "so much" battery in a Truck camper. The compromise may be that there will have to be only one day of capacity at low temperatures. Another compromise may be to go a lot higher in total wattage for solar--but that increases the cost of the system, and again there is only "so much" real estate on the roof. It also means the system may often be under utilized, for if the batteries are at 100% State of Charge, the watts from the panels, after the usual small loads from the RV, are essentially wasted. They might be harvested by adding a 12 volt water heater to act as a shunt.
I can not see any way around not using a generator, or shore power with the current technology of lead acid cells, if storage space is limited, or the roof area is too small. As I'm a bit of a solar zealot, those words don't come easily to me.
It may be, that with the advent of electric cars, that serious high end energy dense rechargeable systems will become affordable. Some of them may be more suited to low temperature use--particularly the super capacitors, which, because there is no chemical reaction involved, may be impervious to low temperatures in any range that an RV is likely to experience.
Don: Thank you for a thoughtful summation of this subject, very good. Your comments, along with many others, are some of the best reasoning I've seen on this subject. While my initial inquiry was targeted towards how to keep a lead acid battery warm to improve performance, this discussion gives me reason to rethink my battery requirements. My camper incorporates an external compartment with space for only one battery. Since I only have intentions of dry camping, battery capacity is important. I also don't spend much "down time" in the camper, it's simply a place to eat and sleep. My internal load is limited basic utility functions (no TV, stereo), but my boondocking/dry camping time is extensive.
Based on the discussions in this post I've drawn the following conclusions for my particular camper:
- Lead acid batteries require external placement (outside the living area) and must be vented. Because of that, trying to warm a lead acid battery with any means is a trade-off and will likely be ineffective. In my case I could warm the battery with my Honda generator using blankets. But, that solution offers only a limited improvement since my generator run time is typically limited to less than an hour in the morning and evening.
- So, I think that my best solution is to install AGM batteries and place them inside the camper - not exposed to outside temperatures. I'm beginning to think about how to install them inside the step just below the bed, and convert the external battery box to general storage use.
- For my purposes I also think a solar panel would be perfect addition - like Sleepy's installation.
It's a little off topic, but I'd like to know more about the issues associated with installation of AGM batteries in the camper cabin. I've read the LifeLine specifications and, at this point, I'm not too concerned about having an AGM battery located inside the camper cabin.
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MTBob
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12/05/09 10:55am |
Truck Campers
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