| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: FW Westlake axle bearing size?
Especially with the newness of your PUP, look at the axle tube itself. It will be a Dexter and it will have a model number.
Cross reference on Dexter's website and their parts diagram PDFs will tell you exactly the part numbers and what the sizes are for sourcing them elsewhere. It is often on the upper side of the axle tube towards the curb side. You'll have to crawl under there but it will remove the guess work.
When you say there's a zerk on the axle, do you mean on the very end of the hub, pointing straight out when you remove the black rubber seal on the end? If so, those are Dexter EZLube hubs. Just pushing grease in there is ok for occasional maintenance but you still need to break it down every so often, especially if you're not the original owner and know the history of use and maintenance. The other concern with EZLube hubs is that rear seal is only good for so long before it will allow grease to seep out the back side and coat your brakes, rendering them useless. That seal needs to be inspected every year and certainly replaced every couple of years, certainly if it has messed up the rotors and pads. When I got my newest PUP, the PO had never inspected but kept pushing grease through, which never really replaces the old grease. The pads were bad enough I tossed them and replaced. It took a good cleaning with brake cleaner to get the rotors grease free again.
When I bought replacement seals, I got 4 extras beyond the immediate need so I have them handy as needed.
|
bondebond
|
05/03/13 10:59am |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: Is a battery required?
You can completely do away with the battery with a few thibngs kept in mind, provided that you always have 120v AC power where you camp. Otherwise, if you get caught in a situation, you have to go cold turkey on all electrically-powered appliances for the duration.
Your refrigerator does not require any electrical power to operate if on LP unlike TT-sized refrigerators. There is no control board to manage the thermostat, so you would be fine with using LP or 120v AC.
Your furnace does require 12v DC to operate. This will be supplied by your onboard converter taking 120v AC to 12v DC as you pointed out. This also includes the 12v water pump and anything else on the 12v system. Again, as long as you have 120v AC, you'll be fine.
Where the camping neighbor ran into problems sounds like the converter could just not keep up with the demand. That's where the battery came into play, providing some of the required power.
You can pull the fuse on the charge line to the battery, bundle up the cables from the terminal connections and secure them to the A frame of the PUP for future use as needed. I would not remove any wiring or connections as you never know what the future holds and you may want to go back to a battery or selling to the next owner might want that option. Just protect them from moisture and corrosion and see how it works for you.
You might try camping a time or two with the battery disconnected and see how it works for you and where you need to make an adjustment, if needed.
Thankfully, I have dual LP tanks with a group 31 battery. For weekenders, it works out well when I don't have shore power. For trips longer than that, a second battery and/or solar would great. I have generators so that works, just louder than I want. I'm there for nature sounds among other reasons.
|
bondebond
|
05/03/13 10:46am |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: Storeage Covers, yes or no?
Right - something like an ADCO breathable cover would do just what you want without harboring water and moisture issues.
I am in the same boat as you with space contention in the shop. I can even extend the beds but I just can't raise it to full height due to the trusses.
|
bondebond
|
05/03/13 10:32am |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: 13" Tire Rec for Popup
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like it is a light truck tire and not designed or specified as a trailer tire.
|
bondebond
|
05/01/13 10:02pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: 13" Tire Rec for Popup
davpratt, I know JLTN_James has talked about going from 13" to 14" on his Fleetwood, but he's also done an axle flip, so clearance wouldn't be an issue. Poke him to see if he actually did it.
Mine came stock with 14" and I thought about moving to 15" but haven't convinced myself of the need yet other than I don't want it to fit through any garage door way :B.
Serenlyretired, what size wheels/tires are you running?
|
bondebond
|
05/01/13 03:04pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: 13" Tire Rec for Popup
Are you running bias or radials?
Another wrinkle in the mix for me was switching from a PUP with 12" wheels to one with 14" wheels. That was a major upgrade in construction, tread width and diameter, etc. You would probably see less of an improvement going from a 13" to a 14" wheel but it might be worth it.
Your 13" tire outer diameter is 24.1" and a 14" wheel and tire would be around 26.3" diameter. From the axle to your wheel well, you would loose right at an inch of clearance. If you have the room (or add an axle over/under conversion) you could do it. It would help with the typical Coleman/Fleetwood low clearance on their PUPs.
|
bondebond
|
05/01/13 02:08pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: Folding Caravans / Pennine Artemis?
Didn't Sunlite make something like this? I vaguely remember walking through one at an RV show. Very nice on the inside, much like today's high wall trailers but the roof went straight up.
The only "pop up" that I am aware of by Sun-lite still had canvas for the part that pops up, not a folding hard wall.
http://www.lensrv.ca/0126.jpg
More info at this site.
They may have had other configurations. I've just not seen them.
|
bondebond
|
05/01/13 12:50pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: Almost packed
And thanks for taking some of the cold out of the system moving this way, but not enough for our weekend camping. Expecting pretty cold overnights Friday for sure and maybe Saturday, then back into the 70s on Sunday. Thanks.../sarcasm
|
bondebond
|
05/01/13 12:32pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: 13" Tire Rec for Popup
You've nailed the typical reason for tire failure: under inflation.
Another aspect of tire performance and longevity is how fast are you driving?
Have you noticed if the tires blow on your way out, or on the return trip?
Do you also check tire pressure at the destination and has it changed (after returning to ambient air temperature)? Maybe there is a hole somewhere in the rim/valve stem/etc thatlets out sir and at some point, you reach the critical flexing of the side wall that causes a blow out.
Ultimately for me, it was speed that killed my tires. Once I slowed down to 60-ish MPH, I quit blowing tires.
|
bondebond
|
05/01/13 10:08am |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: pop-up to alaska
It's all about site management and not the materials of hour walls that have more impact on bear attraction.
|
bondebond
|
04/30/13 11:33pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: Almost packed
I'll be shortly behind you but on a much smaller scale. Just going for the weekend but introducing friends of ours to PUP life for the first time so I'm out spiffing it up tonight and some last minute mods I've been putting off. We're just going for the weekend and would much rather do it the way you're doing it. One of these days...
Best of luck in your travels and keep us posted.
|
bondebond
|
04/30/13 11:31pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: HDTV antenna anyone???
Hey, in all honesty, I just grabbed an image off the net. I wouldn't suggest using the color codes shown in the graphic! Unless you were going to film it, that is.
|
bondebond
|
04/30/13 01:04pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: HDTV antenna anyone???
By inverter, I suspect you mean the power converter, the master power center? When speaking in RV terms, converter usually is used in reference to the power center that brings in 120v AC power, distributes 120v circuits inside the PUP, converts the 120v AC to 12v DC and is also the distribution panel for those circuits and last but not least, has a connection to the battery for charging it, if so equipped.
An inverter is typically referred to as an add-on inverter that takes 12v DC and changes it to 120v AC to power things such as televisions, DVD players and the like.
As for tapping into an existing 12v DC line, most of them IMO are under-utilized.
First, identify each of the 12v circuits and what is powered by them. I have added 12v lights to existing circuits after figuring out what is on the rest of the circuit and determining how load is needed if all are on at the same time.
The nice thing about doing this you don't have to run any wires to the outside of the PUP and have an oddball connection hanging off of the battery. You just get some automotive splice connectors,
http://www.gordonrichards.net/300zx/foglight.splice.connector.jpg width=250
and tap an existing line.
What's the draw of this junction box, # of amps?
You certainly could run a new line from the battery directly to it. Be sure to install an in-line fuse so you don't have a possible run-away situation.
|
bondebond
|
04/29/13 11:13am |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: Been a long time...please refresh our memory
Agreed! Wave off, wave off!
:E
|
bondebond
|
04/24/13 12:42pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: manual
Indeed, that is about the most comprehensive library of manuals as I have seen anywhere.
|
bondebond
|
04/23/13 09:29pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: Question about Solar ....
With any off-grid desires, I would caution against microwave use if yore not going to )A have a large capacity battery and/or B) have a generator as a backup.
A microwave is just right behind an air conditioner as far as typical RV appliances for power consumption. Of course it is used sparingly but I would suggest other methods of heating if possible while off grid.
At least make it a small wattage MW. My built-in MW is 1500 watts and even pushes my generator around. I'm seriously considering swapping it out for a lesser wattage unit. But I digress.
I would suggest a dual battery bank. Several folks on here have dual and even have had quad battery banks for ham radio and the like (c'mon RoyB, where are you?).
Pianotuna has been doing solar and off grid for quite some time so I'd really look through some of his other posts.
You could sling some panels on the roof of your A frame but the angle might be less than desirous but that can easily be overcome but putting something more elegant than a rolled up towel under the low side to place the panels as perpendicular to the sun as possible.
You're also going to need an inverter as those are not included. Something in the 1500-2000 watt range based on what describe above. If you drop microwave usage, then possibly 1,000 watts or less would be more than enough. I have a 400 that would do it if the TV is LCD or similarly low power.
You will need to do the math on what you will consume in a day, both 12v and the impact of any 120v drains on the battery. If you can't make it one day without draining the battery below 50% (about 12.1 volts iirc) then you need a second battery (and in my opinion...quit using so many electronics ;) ).
Then you'll need to figure out how much solar you need to put that daily usage drain back into the battery(ies). Then, there's always the real world tests, which I would do at home before you hit the road. Field testing can be the field in your driveway.
|
bondebond
|
04/23/13 09:28pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: Need a higher-power cordless drill for BAL leveler
Wait! We have a go cart track? Only having moved back within 2 years, I did attend college here from 90-94 but only vaguely recall a go cart track. I was too broke to afford it anyway.
Things are well these days - a little bigger and a little brighter. We pull the PUP up to Heber quite frequently for weekend get-aways.
|
bondebond
|
04/22/13 12:46pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: Been a long time...please refresh our memory
You can use chemicals with them or not. Basically, when it is ready to empty, you open the access door, pull it out and ensure a good connection on the cap then take them to a toilet somewhere and properly flush the contents.
|
bondebond
|
04/22/13 12:42pm |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: Been a long time...please refresh our memory
That's a good looking rig with lots of counter space and lots of storage, for PUP that is. I like the floor plan. Is the one you're looking at have the cassette potty?
|
bondebond
|
04/22/13 09:35am |
Folding Trailers
|
|
RE: Been a long time...please refresh our memory
Welcome back.
It sort of depends on the manufacturer as I have seen conflicting information, but my process is:
Level it side to side, unhitch the tongue, level it front to back, raise the roof, pull out the beds then deploy the stabilizers.
Raising the roof should not produce a shift in the center of gravity but pulling out the bunk ends can, especially if you have like a queen in the front and only a full in the back. The frame may flex and move a little, so best to set up all of the weight-shifting activities first.
However, a little lesson I learned with my first PUP: pull out the front bunk end first. Otherwise, you get to see what a tongue-up-in-the-air PUP looks like. It's not attractive, trust me.
I will say that I believe the Jayco manual on my first PUP said to raise the roof, deploy the stabilizers then pull out the beds, probably for the very reason of pulling the beds out out of order can tip it.
And a technical adjustment to the process I described above. Since I have a BAL light trailer leveler, I do not level it side to side before unhitching. I just back into the site, chock one wheel and put the BAL under the low side wheel, unhitch then use the BAL to level side to side, then resume the process.
|
bondebond
|
04/22/13 09:27am |
Folding Trailers
|
|
