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Turn off motorhome water heater, leaving for a week?
We are flying back to Wisconsin to visit family for a week. We workkamp in TX for the winter.
We are draining pipes and FW tank, turning off water, and have timers on a couple of lights.
We are doing the above mostly because of the possiblility of freezing at night.
Wondered about turning off the hot water heater or not.
Any other things we should do?
We are also thinking about keeping a ceramic electric heater on low while we are gone and the propane furnace on 55.
We do have drop lights in the basements where the tanks and pipes are.
Thanks - John
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jjverb
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01/11/10 06:05pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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TPMS and Balancing Toad Tires
I never see anything mentioned about balancing toad tires, or motorhome tires for that matter when putting these "walnuts" on the tires.
Does anyone do this when they put them on or take them off?
I got the TST System for my rig and Pontiac Vibe. When they went on the Vibe, the steering wheel shook over 55 so I had the tires balanced. The shop said they were tricky to balance but the handling was wonderful after they did it.
Now we are workkamping in TX for 6 months and didn't want to chance wrecking them on a curb so I took them off but had to rebalance the tires on the toad.
I did not have the rig tires balanced when I put them on, but I removed the inflation extensions and put the sensors directly on the stems. Not that big a deal to add pressure without the extensions.
What say you?
John
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jjverb
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01/03/10 12:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Water Heater Does not Work Electric - only propane
I had that problem on my Attwood. There is a little black switch on the left side of the cover that accesses the heating element.
There was a little discoloration on one of the wires of the switch and after testing it was fried and not functional. I eliminated the switch and used a wire nut to connect the two wires and it works fine now.
Diagram showed as a switch.
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jjverb
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12/25/09 12:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Nasty Slide Topper Top Tape Problem
I am replacing my slide topper awning fabric on our 1999 HR Endeavor and I knew there would be a problem with the Eternabond like tape that was used on the top of the slide. I am assuming that this was put on by the factory.
See the problem here.
A couple of issues:
- I cut away all the loose factory eternabond and will lap it with new Eternabond. I will do good surface prep. Or, do I have to try to get all that tar stuff off. I can get the aluminum foil, but that tar stuff is sure sticky.
- It is not easy to tell from the pictures, but the top gasket attached to the coach is not near the top of the slide when it is out all the way. All kinds of light comes through a 1/2 to 3/4" gap. Should this be open like that? Every thing lines up good and seals when it is closed.
Is the slide adjustable from side-to-side and can it be raised when it is all the way out to meet the gasket on the top.
Thanks - John
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jjverb
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12/17/09 04:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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$5 Kwikee Step Support
I wanted a step support for our Quikee steps while wintering in Texas. Instead of purchasing the ones at CW around $35 for two), I came up with this. Maybe somebody else did this previously, so
Two 1/2" All-thread 12" rods, two washers, and four nuts were $5. I found a 20" 4 x 4 in the campground scrap pile and used a piece of 1/2" plywood under the step to cushion the rod. The plywood is held in by the step carpet springs, so it will stay under the step while traveling.
Drill two - 1/2" holes in the 4 x 4 for the rod and use the nuts for adjustment. I had to cut 1" off of the rod so it fit under the step.
There is 3" of adjustment available if you crank the nuts and I may have to trim the rod some more depending on how the rig sets on different campground sites. If I need more height I will use 2 x 4's under the 4 x 4.
I will use two more nuts to lock them in place.
http://btailors.com/Misc/Steps.htm height=360 width=400
Picture of steps.
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jjverb
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11/15/09 08:40am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Disconnect Qickee retracting steps for supports
I was looking around under there for a disconnect and there is a bright yellow tag on the wires to the motor saying not to cut the motor wires.
I talked to another camper and he also has the plugs to disconnect the motor for repair and he disconnects them for supports.
My wires are solid to the motor, no plugs.
What the heck?
John
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jjverb
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11/12/09 03:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Disconnect Qickee retracting steps for supports
We have been here 3 weeks and I bumped the switch once and they closed, now I started the engine to burn off some fuel, and of course, the steps retracted.
I replaced that link once and it is not an easy task, and I want to try to avoid that job again.
John
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jjverb
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11/12/09 01:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Disconnect Qickee retracting steps for supports
I want to disconnect out Quickee steps so I can put jacks under them for support while we winter in Texas.
We have a 1999 HR Endeavor.
But I do not have a clue where the fuse is located. Do I cut the motor wires? Prefer not to.
I do not want the steps retracting while there is something holding them up because it will break the link or cause some other damage.
I know there some breakers back by the batteries, but they are not marked and I hate to do trial and error on them.
Anyone have a clue?
Thanks - John
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jjverb
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11/12/09 01:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: sun visor
Try one of those pull-down visors from Carefree of Colorado. They have electric or manual. I ripped out the tv and could not use the existing visor and found a Carefree Maxi on the Internet for $80. It is a nice visor and works really well. It is not the electric.
You can get them all across the front and they even have side ones - all electric. Push a button and they go up and down.
Carefree Visorshttp://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/rvmhin_smartvisor.asp?m=01010501
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jjverb
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11/10/09 03:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Diesel Tank Leaking
We purchased our 1999 HR Endeavor in Jan this year, went from Wisconsin to Texas and are now workkamping. We filled up here at the campground when we arrived with what the owner called a "slow" pump. I didn't care, since we were in no rush.
Parked in our spot for the winter season and that day I smelled diesel. Looked under and saw a drip hitting the ground that was coming somewhere near the top of the tank. Well, it is now 2 weeks later, and the drip, many per minute, persists. The ground is soaked as is the whole bottom of the tank and the braces etc in the area. Since we are level, the drip comes off of lots of points so it is not possible to catch it, maybe some of it.
Now I am hesitant to even start it up, or even run the genny since that is close to the leak.
Up to this point, the tank has never leaked, although before this we always fueled at "fast" pumps. I wonder if the slow pump filled right up to the top of filler tube?
My next step is to siphon (mouth full of diesel?) off fuel into a container(s) until the leak stops.
What are your thoughts? I do not want even a remote chance of a fire and if the tank has to be pulled, so be it. There are RV repair facilities around here (Kerrville TX). If I could reach it I would use the tank fixer patches, but I believe the leak must be stopped before patching.
Again, the leak is somewhere at the upper area of the tank and I cannot see the source. And the ground is now really soaked with diesel.
Thanks - John
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jjverb
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11/07/09 08:11am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: #1076 12v bulb too bright - alternatives
Thanks all for the responses. I have plenty of ideas, the best probably are not RV or marine stores.
John
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jjverb
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10/25/09 08:34am |
Class A Motorhomes
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#1076 12v bulb too bright - alternatives
We have these bulbs in the bedroom and dining area of our coach and they are too darned bright. Where the fixtures had two bulbs in them, I took one out and they are still too bright.
Over the dining area there are three bulbs in that dumb looking fixture. We actually use a small table lamp on the dining table and it works fine.
Do these things come in a lower wattage with the same base? Even with one bulb they are still way more than enough to read in bed.
I do not want to change the fixtures if possible.
Thanks - John
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jjverb
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10/24/09 02:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Slide-Out Oops
We have chains that limit the raising of the basement doors. They open just short of the slide. If you want to open it further with the slide in, the chains unhook from the top end. I never unhook them. Holiday Rambler 37WDS 1999.
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jjverb
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10/19/09 08:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Memphis to San Antonio - best route
We are heading from Memphis to San Antonio to workcamp.
This is our first time heading out west. We are presently in Nashville and are going to Memphis tomorrow. What is better:
I-30 west out of Memphis to Dallas and 35 south to San Anton
or
I-55 south out of Memphis and west on I-10 to San Anton?
To me it looks about the same distance, but does one route have an advantage over another? We plan on single overnights at FJ's, Love's etc., so we don't need special camping or sightseeing needs, just good roads and minimum hassle.
Thanks - John
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jjverb
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10/15/09 10:21pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How much weight can basement handle?
Thanks for all the helpful information. We are easily less than 150# in the compartments and I now have some plywood under the heavy stuff.
We weighed in after loading and have 9120 on front, 9350 on the sticker, and 15000 back with 15500 on the sticker. So we are good there.
The toad is 3160, but I don't know where that falls into the mix.
Any thoughts on this?
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jjverb
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10/05/09 07:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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How much weight can basement handle?
We are ready to leave for Texas tomorrow for the winter and a workamping job. We leave from Wisconsin. We have a 1999 H Rambler WDS 39' and this is our first full time endeavor and we are first-timers in the rig having purchased it in January.
How much weight can the basements hold safely? I have a large tool box, portable 10 gal propane tank, DW's sewing machine, more tools and hand tools, the safe power thing among the other usual stuff like wood for leveling, extension cords, etc etc.
I looked under the coach and see one steel brace across the center of the basement bins, and then some bulging of the plastic or whatever the bins are made of.
Has anyone ever had the bin give way and open up on the highway? This would not be cool.
I have the weight distributed and plan on weighing tomorrow before we hit the I system. I raised the tire pressure 3# from manufacturer recommended to 98# all around.
On another note, are we required to pull into the weigh stations?
Thanks - John
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jjverb
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10/03/09 09:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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99 Endeavor slide not level when out
I level our Endeavor but the slide (it only has one long one), when extended, slants away from the coach. DW's brownies did not come out of the oven too good, and the microwave is definitely slanted the same way too.
We dump air, drop the jacks, then put the slide out according to the manual.
There are bubble levels on the coach, put on by a previous owner, that may or may not be right, but they seem OK.
Is there a slide adjustment when it is in the extended position?
Any ideas would be appreciated.
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jjverb
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09/20/09 08:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HWH Levelers Panel Lite Lit
Thanks for the info. I will call HWH. The 3:00 light is on all the time, whether the jacks are up or down. When the panel is energized, the light is on. I found the disk under the chassis, right about in the middle of everything.
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jjverb
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08/28/09 04:18pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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HWH Levelers Panel Lite Lit
On the leveling panel next to the drivers seat in my 1999 Endeavor, one of the four little yellow lights never goes out (the one on the right). The jacks work properly, up and down, and I do not have a problem leveling the coach. Can this be fixed so it works properly? (without snipping a wire!!)
I assume those lights are supposed to tell me if the coach is level or not.
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jjverb
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08/28/09 09:07am |
Class A Motorhomes
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