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RE: January departure questions....

Done this for years - just keep an eye on the weather and go when you can, I am a little further north so we stay in a hotel 2-3 days ( I only drive 250 a day) Then I dewinterize and stock up on food for the motor home. We go with the refrigerator loaded its the canned good I would worry about freezing One year we arrived in Destin Florida and still had snow/ice on the roof - it took 5 days for it all to melt.
rr2254545 09/14/16 06:46am Snowbirds
RE: East Coast travel in February

From upstate NY down South at New Years. I put a 10 gal. tank in the wet bay with antifreeze in it. It's hooked up to diverter as in a normal winterize, which I do in October. I put about 50 gal. water in water tank but leave diverter on to antifreeze tank just to run toilet if an "urgency" comes up. Whenever I'm willing to risk it I flip the diverter and dewinterize. Flip the water heater bypass last. Very easy, and makes everything comfortable with a case or two of bottled water to live off. Never give temperature a second thought, even had below zero one year and freezing nights until two days into Florida.
bigbaddad 08/26/16 02:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: East Coast travel in February

We ran from Rochester NY to the south every Fall from 2002 to 2012 when I retired and did not have to wait for year end before getting out of town. Always turned on the heat and refrigerator a couple of days before departure and filled the FW tank as we were ready to roll. Did not dewinterize pipes until we needed them as we rolled. Usually our first overnight was in PA and we just ran everything. The only change we made from warm weather was we did not connect up water and sewer. We would drain black and gray before departure in the AM and stow the slinky. We were going where we had water day two in VA so did not bother about that. We then stayed at our son;s place in the VA mountains for a couple of weeks and often saw temps into the teens. Burned through a lot of propane but never froze anything. That was in an 04 Southwind and an 01 Damon before that. neither had heated tanks but the Southwind did have a furnace outlet in the wet bay. Kept a lit 100 watt light bulb for really cold nights.
xctraveler 08/22/16 08:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need step by step help de-winterizing

First, welcome. We'll all get you through this. Not as difficult as you think. To dewinterize, open low point drains (should be 2 lines dropping below trailer). Open any faucets, hot and cold. The antifreeze won't hurt your lawn, but you can catch it in a bucket, either way. You'll know when it's drained. Close the low point drains. Hook up the city water, open each faucet until no pink antifreeze comes out. Turn off the city water. Next, set the valves on the water heater. You should have 2 lines, one going in, one out. You probably have a line between them. Open the 2 going in and out (valve handle in line with pipe). Close the one in between the 2 (handle at 90 degree angle). Are you drinking from the water system? If not, I wouldn't bother worrying about sanitizing the system at this time until you're more familiar and confident. When you turn on the water again the water heater should fill. Open a hot water faucet near it. It will take a while to fill, and when it does the water will sputter. Let it run until it runs smooth. ONLY THEN turn on the water heater. NEVER turn on heater unless you know the water heater is full. You really don't need to do anything with black and gray tanks except empty them. More questions or things look different? Post them here. Have fun!
brirene 08/15/16 07:30am Travel Trailers
HELP -mechanic damage & de-winterization

Hey everybody. This gal could really use your support. While in the shop, had them dewinterize the unit. This was on the invoice and I was told they also cleaned minerals out of the hot water heater. Once home, and moving about in the RV, I found that the monitor panel showed that the grey water and holding tanks were half full, and, I found pink tinted water coming out of my kitchen faucet. It would appear that it was not completed properly. Next, and here's the biggie- I see that some body damage to the cabover was done to it while in the shop. Cracks in fiberglass , a dent that looks like delamination and a split piece of wood in the interior- on one of the horizontal bars ( near the center) that is where the front under curve begins. I know this because I had the vinyl panel off prior, and had been cleaning up there from a small past water leak, planning to replace that knee bump panel just to freshen it. So I was very familiar with what was going on up there. In addition, to assess, I put that same panel back, it now sticks out about an inch or more, from the wood that got pressed into the cab. No longer flush fit. !!! The past water damage was minimal. 2 months ago I drove it over 1000 miles, and none of these things were there when I took off the vinyl knee panel. only when it came back from the shop. This was not admitted to then, so I imagine they won't admit it now that I am off their lot. Any advice? It is HUGELY expensive if the repair is done properly- already got it video and photo estimated. I have video and photos. So disheartened. Oh humanity. Why can't people just do the right thing?
Homestead or Bust 08/08/16 08:12am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Your winter destination

We went to AZ the first season for a couple of months; Feb-Mar. Didn't necessarily dislike but decided to try the Texas Hill Country the next year and found it fits our needs and desires quite well. We began by going January through March but have gradually increased our time to where we now get into our site on November 1 and leave towards the end of April; 6 months in Texas and 6 months in Iowa. As another poster said, that way I don't have to dewinterize or winterize. If it weren't for the grandkids we'd have to seriously consider fulltiming. But for now we still need the sticks and bricks. Hope this helps.
8ntw8tn 07/08/16 05:11pm Snowbirds
RE: Two Questions (Sanitize and Empty Tank)

Awesome Discussion! Thanks for the responses! Our typical usage is as follows: * Purchased new TT 2014, never sanitized the tanks, and still have not. * It sat winterized winter 2014. * Spring 2015 de-winterized and used the camper every weekend over summer 2015. * Camper sits idle during the week. * Winterized (antifreeze) winter 2015. * Dewinterize spring 2016, have used it 4 weekends so far (sits during the week). I have three tubes coming out the bottom for the freshwater tank, the hot water heater, and some other cold water tank. I remove the plugs for all three after every trip and keep the plug off while it sits during the week. Should I re-plug so bees and flies don't go in there??? (I never thought about that till now). When going somewhere without water, i fill the FW tank completely, run the water pump to fill the HWheater as well. Go camp! Life is good! I dump the Black and Grey tanks after every trip and drain all the water tanks after every trip. Is this best practice? My water at the house is City, and when connected to water at campgrounds it is normally city as well. I am concerned about water sitting during the week simply due to the fact water is room temperature and bacteria does grow. I will not worry about the sensors in the black tank for now, I will take a glance down the hole when flushing. Thanks again for the insite!
sac89 06/14/16 08:46am Travel Trailers
RE: How water heater and eliminating antifreeze

OP: Open the drain plug on the hot water heater and drain it. Then put it back in and then flush with fresh water. I too winterize by putting the antifreeze in the fresh tank and pump it thru all the pipes including the hot water heater. But I do it this way. Then with the pump 'off', I open the drain plug on the hot water heater and drain the antifreeze out of it. Leaving just the little bit that remains below the plug. Now when I go to dewinterize I am not spending hours and hours of running fresh water into a tank with antifreeze which only just dilutes it. Which is why it takes so long to clean thru if you leave the whole tank full of antifreeze. It takes only a few minutes of flushing to remove the small amount that was left on the bottom of the tank. And yes I use about 4 or 5 bottles of antifreeze doing it this way but for 'me' I KNOW there is NO air in any of the lines just pure antifreeze to protect them all. :C Just saying that's the way "I" do it and have never had any frozen lines or leaks from freezing when stored in the cold upper Midwest.
rockhillmanor 05/18/16 08:32am Class A Motorhomes
dewinterize/ water problem

I have owned my RV for 6 years and done the winterize / de winterize myself every year but am baffled by my current problem. Hoping someone can help Model: Winnebago Access 31J (bunk bed model) I set the valve by the pump to go straight so not towards siphon I set the drain valve to off I set the two lines under the sink to be parallel to the lines. Same direction (tried opposite as well I set the water heater valve in-line I turn the water pump on and have opened faucets. Water pours out through drain valve by the back wheel. Feels like I tried every combination of changing valve directions but nothing is working. All leads to draining water. Water heater is clearly not getting filled up and only tiny bit of water comes out through faucets but a ton is running down the pavement outside.... Any ideas????
mikeak 05/12/16 11:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: How often do yall sanitize your fresh water tank?

I sanitize once a year as part of the dewinterizing process. My family doesn't drink the tank water but use it in coffee percolator (boiled) and brush teeth with it etc. So I do it for piece of mind and keeping my family safe. Here is a video on how I do it : Dewinterize and sanitize water system video
Dirtpig 04/26/16 03:45pm Travel Trailers
RE: Maxxis Tires

I called a Goodyear dealer in town and they ordered a set of Maxxis for my trailer at a price cheaper than their Goodyear Marathons. The new set replaced my old set of Maxxis, which lasted 8 years without problems until the last trip to the Keys, when they began to go show signs of distress. I waited too long to replace them, but they got me home without a flat or blowout. Nice, that is what I wanted to hear! I ordered Maxxis and aluminum rims from Discount tire and just mounted them today. I'm reall happy with the look of the aluminum vs the stock white rims, now just hope the Maxxis hold up as good as everyone claims. Thanks everyone for your replys, this is the best source of information. Tomorrow I will dewinterize and hopefully find no surprises.
NY RVer 04/16/16 07:25pm Towing
RE: popular rv/trailer accessories

Good prices, security, and available electric power would be on my basic list of wants. An available air compressor to refill tires would also be nice. You might get some business with propane filling, but I imagine that would be a significant investment in infrastructure, permitting, and training to implement. A dump station might also be nice when returning from a trip, but again is not an inexpensive proposition to put in. I suspect most people don't take an RV directly from storage to the campground, but rather stop by their house first to load up their clothes and groceries, fill the water tanks, possibly wash/clean/dewinterize, etc. If you're really in a big city where people would live in apartment buildings or similar, then perhaps a staging area for these activities would be a big selling point and could prove profitable; but I'm not sure all that many apartment dwellers would own an RV. I perhaps should mention that I'm not really the target market for RV storage, as I can keep my motorhome at my house where I have adequate security and 30A power available, and it costs me less than any storage facility could charge.
DrewE 04/15/16 01:51pm General RVing Issues
How we resealed our RV roof with Dicor lap sealant

Once again, spring is upon us and so are those RV maintenance chores! This week we climbed up on the roof to check all the seams and reapply Dicor lap sealant where needed. For those that have followed along with us you’ll know that we replaced our entire roof (along with some walls & floor) about a year and a half ago. During that time we haven’t had any issues with the roof, but after dealing with the aftermath of water damage we know the importance of preventative maintenance. When we dewinterize in the spring we do a pretty thorough check of the RV and all the systems and nip any potential issues in the bud. One of our highest priorities is keeping water out of our RV! As far as the roof goes, we first walk (or crawl) the entire roof looking for any damage to the rubber membrane. We then focus on all seams around vents, transitions, trim, etc. looking for cracks or holes that could potentially let water through. At this point we clean the seams and reapply Dicor lap sealant to anything questionable since it’s likely I won’t check again for another year. I apply new sealant directly over any cracks and only peel the old sealant away if it’s already hanging or coming off. Here's a link to our video showing how we did it: And here's a link to our blog post with more details if interested:
RVcircus 04/12/16 03:54pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: How to keep RV warm enough in winter to avoid winterizing

In an area where temperatures go into deep freeze for about four months of a nine month "camping" season, I never found it a pain to winterize. Protecting the plumbing from freezing before going into storage was at most a 30 minute job, and "dewinterizing" added less than 30 minutes work to the day or so of trip prep I would do each time I came out of storage, no matter what time of year. So to make use of these fringes of our extended season, and to prepare for winter trips further south, it was not unusual for me to winterize and dewinterize four times a year or more. Not costly, not time consuming, and not particularly wasteful. If I don't dump my fresh water tanks before storage (e.g. in summer) I always dump and refill coming out of storage, to get freshly chlorinated water into the system. I don't know what people in your area do, but the sort of temperatures you are talking about are what I expect October and November, March and April, which are my fringe months. Winterize to store, dewinterize to camp.
tatest 04/06/16 01:48am Class A Motorhomes
How we dewinterize our travel trailer

So we dewinterized a few weeks ago before our trip to Charleston and just got around to editing the video. Here's a quick video of how we do it if you're interested. A question for everyone else, do you sanitize your hot water heater? I do because it makes me feel better, won't hurt anything and doesn't add too much effort. I'm not sure it's necessary, so does anyone keep their hot water heater bypassed to avoid running bleach through it?
RVcircus 04/05/16 09:21pm Tech Issues
How we dewinterize our travel trailer

This topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 28822848
RVcircus 04/05/16 09:21pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Well, I just did "it" again! Drats!

We never dewinterize before April 15 PERIOD
Bucky Badger 04/03/16 07:40pm General RVing Issues
RE: Hot water heater... Drain after every trip?

I fill mine when I dewinterize in the spring and drain it when I winterize in the fall. Me too!
ol' yeller 04/03/16 06:58pm Beginning RVing
RE: Hot water heater... Drain after every trip?

I fill mine when I dewinterize in the spring and drain it when I winterize in the fall.
Jack_Diane_Freedom 04/03/16 01:28pm Beginning RVing
RE: Renogy eclipse solar panels (newly released)

Boaty...thanks for the info. Still have ?; what differentiates low voltage panel from high voltage panel? When do you cross the line? Thanks, Bill Edit; tattoobob...I think you need 2 batteries before you do anything else. Might be the best $ spent in your case. As soon as I dewinterize and load the camper on I'm going to locate a spot for a second Battery, the last camper I had I had one Battery and a 15 watt panel and it was all I needed
tattoobob 03/15/16 07:47pm Truck Campers
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