FrontRangeRVer

8,600 feet elevation in the Rockies

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Since all this recall talk with the Workhorse Chassis brakes have taking over the forums lately, I thought it would be a good idea to have my brakes inspected and the brake fluid flushed/changed on my 2006 W-22 Workhorse Chassis.
I took my 3-slide motorhome in to the local Workhorse dealer, and they performed the work requested, and I was charged $128 for the Brake fluid flush and brake inspection. The service tech reported slightly dirty brake fluid, and no problems with the sliding pins and no cracks on the rotors. He also reported that the fluid change wasn't really necessary, and that they have been having some overheating issues with the Ford Chassis brakes, and not many problems with the Workhorse Chassis.
I was glad to have it done, although a waste of money, but a good peace of mind!
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2006 Winnebago Voyage 35A
W-22 Chassis
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fredbon

Pacific Northwest or SoCal

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I have been wondering why the entire scare talk about dirty and fouled brake fluid on Workhorse chassis. Why would a sealed system be contaminated in a matter of a few years if everything is working properly and there is no evidence of fluid leakage?
Fred
Fred and Bonnie
Frankie & Sun Yao Ting, (The Cats)
2005 Dolphin LX 6375
2006 Saturn VUE
As I've Matured... I've learned that artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity.
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FrontRangeRVer

8,600 feet elevation in the Rockies

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Fred...you are exactly right, and I feel the same way. I've NEVER changed the brake fluid in ANY of the RV's I have owned, or ever felt like it should be changed until some Workhorse people shamed me into doing this.
Like I said before...its a peace of mind thing, thats all.
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supercub

Modesto CA

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BroncoRVer......I had the same service done to mine last month at a workhorse service center and they said the same thing......brake fluid was just slight discolored, not bad at all, and everything looked good. This was on a 2003 chasis that had never had anything done to the brake system. They did say that it wasn't a bad idea to flush the brake system, but they really hadn't been seeing problems, since the recall.
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Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

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They keep saying it gets full of water but if it is a sealed system how does MORE get in it. I understand if you are changing brake fluid on a rainy day with high humidity some can get in then but how does more get in?
Does the master cylinder suck in some air every time you hit the brakes?
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RoyJ

Vancouver, BC

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fredbon wrote: I have been wondering why the entire scare talk about dirty and fouled brake fluid on Workhorse chassis. Why would a sealed system be contaminated in a matter of a few years if everything is working properly and there is no evidence of fluid leakage?
Fred
Is the system really fully sealed? I don't know about the Workhorse in particular, but 99.9% of cars / light trucks on the road do NOT have sealed brake systems. Air can get in and out of the master cylinder resorvoir.
If you look at the brake fluid boling temperature test, it takes as little as 3 - 6 monts before the brake fluid is saturated with water and the "dry boiling point" is reduced to "wet boiling point", which is 150 - 200 degrees lower. The fluid can remain perfectly clean at this point and you won't be able to tell, untill your fluid fades down a hill.
With any hard working braking system, whether a heavy coach or high performance BMW, I'd say annual flush is a good and cheap insurance.
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bsinmich

Holland, MI

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A hydraulic brake system is NOT a sealed system. Wwhen the brake pedal is depressed fluid is forced to the calipers to apply brakes. As the fluid is forced out of the reservoir something must replace the fluid and that is air. The air has moisture in it and that is the source of the water in the brake fluid. If you check brake fluid and see it is darker than clear you have water in the fluid. Water will corrode the metal components in the brake systerm and you can actually rust through a brake line from the inside out. Water vapor will boil in a brake system and cause the pedal to go to the floor without doing a thing to stop your MH. This doesn't just happen on WWH chassis. I had a '89 Ford E350 under my Jamboree that I bought new and had it happen to me when it was 4 years old. After that I have continually changed brake fluid every 2-3 years. The time it takes is less than 1/2 hr and it takes about $12. of brake fluid. I checked with several mechanics about what it would cost and they laughed, saying they never heard of it. When you are the one going down the hill and then going through the red light at the bottom you become a quick believer. One of the great things about travelling in a MH is that while the brakes are cooling you can change your underwear without leaving the vehicle.
2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Workhorse W22, & 2002 PT Cruiser w/Remco lube pump, Falcon 5250, & US Gear Unified Tow Brake
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Dixiedog

Panama City, FL

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Had my brakes inspected last week also and no problems with sliding pins , calipers or rotors. MH is an '04 Allegro built in Aug. of '03 on a W20 chassis.
After hearing of so many concerns this does give some peace of mind.
Dixiedog
04 Allegro 30DA
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Daboo

Texas Panhandle USA

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Joined: 11/28/2001

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fredbon wrote: I have been wondering why the entire scare talk about dirty and fouled brake fluid on Workhorse chassis. Why would a sealed system be contaminated in a matter of a few years if everything is working properly and there is no evidence of fluid leakage?
Fred
I was skeptic also...but I decided to take the W-20 in and have the fluid change...its a good thing I did...there was some stuff in the master cylinder that resembled wax..dirty yes...the Tech showed me the stuff and said it was probably lucky that I brought the thing in....the money spent was well worth it...so...do it....peace of mind is priceless.....
Hello from the windy Texas Panhandle
Winnebago Adventurer 33V
Served proudly 1957-1965..U.S. Air Force
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MountainAir05

New Mexico

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You could pull a vacuum on the system and see how long it holds, then you would know if it is sealed or not. I am sure that it will not hold a perfect vacuum since most vehicles have a push on top. I know I change mine out every few years and I live in a dry climate and yes I can tell a difference when it is new. No sure how long before it get less effective. Use to be able to find test strips but have not seen them in years. Just finish all three vehicle today. Only the RV had darker fluid. Just mine opinion.
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