EdFil
Sarasota, Fl
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Joined: 03/27/2005
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When my EGR valve went it blew white smoke. Good luck.
Ed
Ed and Fran
2005 F-350 Lariat Xcab DRW 6.0 Diesel
2006 Lance 1191
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rabcon
Norhtern New York
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Joined: 02/16/2007
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Raften wrote:Did the problem show up the first time when there was very little fuel in the tank? And had the truck sat for a long period of time nearly empty. The 6.0 common rail does not tolerate moisture in the fuel. Of course the first thing anyone did was change the fuel filter, right? The truck never has less than 1/4 tank of fuel.Thanks
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Steelhog
Huntsville, AL
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Joined: 03/25/2008
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The 6.0 has an interesting history. The VGT (variable geometry turbo) uses a actuator driven "unison" plate to vary the the angle of the turbo vanes and that plate is prone to binding up with soot or rust if not excercised regularly. The EGR valve is also prone to soot build up if the engine is babied or idled too much. The VGT turbo is what makes the 6.0 F series such a rocket off the line but Ford may have put too much technology on the market too soon. Ford replaced my turbo under warranty on my '04 and cleaned the EGR as well. They advised me to (as was noted before) "drive it like you stole it",use their cetane fuel additive and regularly get the engine up to full operating temp at least once a week under load. Several folks with 6.0's agree fuel filters (engine and frame mounted) be changed religiously. With proper care and a bit of luck the 6.0 can be a reliable engine.
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rkentzel
Perris, CA
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Joined: 04/11/2006
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Good Sam RV Club
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Sounds like a EGR problem to me. You can by the oring kit and pull it and clean but sure is a apin in the back side to get it out. I keep one in the glove box. The oring kit is about 25.00 dollar range.
2006 GEORGETOWN 349TS Ford F53
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lee mayhan
Jonesboro, Arkansas
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Joined: 08/18/2004
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I have 06 PSD 6.0 350 LWB 72000mi and had the same thing and was the EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation) when value gum up normal will take out intercooler about 25/2600 dollars to replace.
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AllenF
Riverside,CA
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Joined: 04/09/2005
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Over time there have come to be known a few things that we need to follow so as to get the most out of the 6.0L engine.
1) NEVER chip this engine or if you must do it lightly.
2) Add a coolant filter. It helps keep the EGR cooler clean so it will not get plugged up and thus get too hot and the brazing cracks and then it fails/leaks.
3) Add a good fuel conditioner every tankful. I use Stanadyne. Great stuff.
4) Change your oil every 5000 miles unless you use FULL synthetic oil and an bypass oil filter. Then test your used oil to determine your oil change intervals.
I do the latter.
5) Baby it at start-up until it is fully warmed up and then jump on it on freeway on ramps or long open sections of road. This blows out the carbon and exercises the turbo vanes. Pulsating the throttle from flooring it for a few seconds to full let off and then rolling back to the floor will work the vanes well and help to keep them free.
6) NEVER idle this engine for long periods of time or let it sit un-fired for weeks on end. This will allow the turbo vanes to rust up and become sticky or stuck.
7) Run the truck as it was intended to be run, that is as a Super Duty work truck. They love to work and reward you for it.
8) Follow the maintenance for this engine including the filters.
9) When you do need to have something fixed find out where there is a good 6.0L mechanic. IMO the single biggest issue with the early 6.0L's was the fact that most of the diesel mechanics were not up to speed or just plain awful. When you find a good mechanic at the dealer, support that dealer. Let them know you are supporting them in part due to their having this great diesel mechanic. This will let them know that he is important to you. They will hopefully treat him well so he will stay. Some guys take some beer to the guys at the end of the day to thank them for their hard work.
Doing all of the above has given me a great Ford truck experience.
* This post was
edited 11/03/09 08:59am by AllenF *
Allen
2005 Ford F-350 CC Dually 6.0L Diesel 4x4 King Ranch loaded, Supersprings, Coolant filter, Oilguard bypass filter.
2005 Eagle Cap 1150 slide, custom Norcold 9.5 cu.ft. refer, Honda EU2000i, Shurflo tank, Charge Wizard, Maxxair 1200T, 12'Screenroom
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PR Connection
Powell River BC
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Joined: 08/03/2005
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Post this quesion on desiel forum and you will get much better answers to your question
Dan
2006 3000SL26 Bigfoot Class C
320 Watts Solar With Bluesky 2000 Regulator
Four 6volt U2200 Batteries
2000 Watt PSW Magnum Inverter
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rabcon
Norhtern New York
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Got it back to the shop and siad #4 injector is bad ! Well we will see !! Thanks for the responces !! I hope that is it . It was realy nocking and smokeing on the way to the shop.Kinda like a either nock. hummmmmmmm 
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Matthew_B
The boonies near Dallas, Oregon
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Joined: 08/18/2005
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If an injector is atomizing bad, the ignition of the fuel is delayed because the fuel is in bigger drops and doesn't light until it boils a bit.
This causes a pretty bad knock because there is a lot more fuel in the cylinder to light off when ignition occurs. You sure don't want to drive it a long ways like this.
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rickjo
SW New Mexico
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Joined: 01/20/2007
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I have had 5 injectors fail from 42k to 50k miles on my 6.0. It's an early 2004 and they are supposed to be the worst on injectors. Symptoms are exactly right. After the 5th (and the 3rd in Alaska), I just took the recommendation to replace the rest. 5k miles since and runs like a charm. 4 of the 5 injectors failed on a restart after a very warm shutdown. I am really careful to cool down now before shutting off and I will investigate an exhaust temp gauge so I can tell when it's cool enough. Lots of good advice on additives, oil changes, etc. in earlier posts.
Rick
2004 F-350 4WD Crew Cab Dually w/ Airlift air bags, Luverne brush guard, side steps and splash guards.
2007 LanceMax 1181 loaded, wider aftermarket custom mattress (driver's side locker omitted).
"Leave the trail a little better than you found it."
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