mowermech
Billings, MT
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Joined: 06/28/2003
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Dr Quick wrote:Using compressed air can cause two problems.
1. When you compress air you increase the moisture volume of the air and when you use the air you are injecting moisture into whatever you apply the air to. This is why spray painters and pneumatic HVAC control systems for buildings have dryers in line to remove the moisture. As stated above that water will settle in low spots and freeze.
2. Air from a shop compressor is probably CONTAMINATED. You will either get oil from a oil sump type, or even an oil less is not a clean air source. You are probably injecting contaminants into your potable water system. This is why scuba divers have to use a special compressor to fill there air tanks from a source that is not contaminated. I do not want to drink of breathe that stuff.
And THAT is why you go to Harbor Freight or some other such store and get a filter/dryer for your air line. Actually, you should have one anyway.
As I have stated repeatedly, when you winterize your underground sprinkler system, how is it done? Do you put a special anti-freeze/fertilizer solution in the pipes, or what?
Those of us who have used high-volume/low-pressure air to winterize for years KNOW it works, if it is done right. We KNOW if you use the proper filter/dryer in the air line you will NOT contaminate the water lines, and you will NOT get sick from drinking or cooking with the water, IF you sanitize the system as recommended in the Owner's Manual. Yes, you will still need to put about a cup of antifreeze in each and every drain trap. Use a piece of 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe to hold the toilet valve open (again, read the Owner's Manual).
As always, the bottom line is, it is YOUR RV, you do what you feel comfortable doing. Either method WILL work, IF done properly. Either method WILL fail, if not done properly. It is as simple as that.
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ShapeShifter
Buffalo, NY
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mowermech first wrote:As I have stated repeatedly, when you winterize your underground sprinkler system, how is it done?
The sprinkler company comes out with their air compressor trailer (like what you see driving jack hammers) and they blow out all of the water using a heck of a lot more air flow than my wheeled shop compressor can put out.
mowermech then wrote:Do you put a special anti-freeze/fertilizer solution in the pipes, or what?
No, but maybe that would be a good idea. Every few years, when the system is started up in the spring, there is a burst pipe or cracked fitting that needs to be dug up and replaced.
If blowing out the lines with such a large high volume air compressor in the hands of a professional isn't fool-proof, why should it be fool-proof to do it in an RV with a much smaller compressor? Pumping the pink stuff after blowing out most of the water isn't that much work, and it's good peace of mind, for me at least.
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Mile High
Lone Tree, CO
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Joined: 02/05/2008
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This isn't anything to argue about - there is no wrong answer. So many of these RVs vary in design. Even with the same brand RV I have had to adapt my methods to accomodate the differences in model year.
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Dave H M
IL
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why huff and puff on the lines if you are gonna use pink stuff anyway. I been just using the pink stuff for decades and always have a little left in the second gallon jug. 
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travellerw
Edmonton, Alberta Canada
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Ok well I had to respond cause I'm a little different.
1. Blow out the lines.
2. Run Pink Stuff through everything.
3. Blow pink stuff out and down the drains.
I found that if I left the pink stuff in all winter it would take a long time for the taste to go away. So since its already done the work (Displaced any left over water) I blow it right out. Takes a little longer but I think its worth it.
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lat471
Lebanon, PA
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If you open the faucets and open the low point drains I'm sure the dilution facto is minimal. Anyway full strength it protects to -50. I live in PA not the north pole and when I did live there I never had to use an air compressor. Don't get me wrong I have done it a time or two because it was there but it wasn't worth the effort. This way when I've dumped my tanks and go home I can pick a day if I need to winterize or use it for another trip. As for saving a 1/2 gal. that comes to less than a buck. I spend more on beer or a cigar for the weekend. To each there own we've been Rving since 1975.
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thecampingman
Wilmington, OH, USA
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I winterize my ice maker & solenoid valve by blowing it out with compressed air.
I made a little pigtail to energize the valve with electric.
I unplug the spade connectors from the valve, and plug in my pigtail then plug it into 120v. In a few seconds I hear it hissing and unplug the pigtail and replug the icemaker wiring.
It takes longer to write about it than it does to do it.
I used to follow the manufacturer's instructions and unscrew the fittings to drain the valve. This is easier.
I was going to install a push button to energize the valve...but havn't gotten around to it.
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Dave H M
IL
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why would i want to blow them out if I am gonna use antifreeze? If it takes an extra half gallon of antifreeze that is ok with me.
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ShapeShifter
Buffalo, NY
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thecampingman wrote:I winterize my ice maker & solenoid valve by blowing it out with compressed air.
I made a little pigtail to energize the valve with electric.
I unplug the spade connectors from the valve, and plug in my pigtail then plug it into 120v. In a few seconds I hear it hissing and unplug the pigtail and replug the icemaker wiring.
It takes longer to write about it than it does to do it.
I do the same, because I don't want the pink stuff in the icemaker mold -- takes too many ice cycles to get it all out.
As long as I have the compressor, I also blow out the city water fill, the fill line to the fresh tank, and the black tank flush -- all of which are easier to do with air than antifreeze. Air is also helpful with the water heater -- after draining out the water normally, when I hook up the air, it blows even more water out of it. It also allows me to blow the water out of the inlet and outlet lines between the heater and the bypass valve. And then after setting the bypass, with the relief valve open, it's easy to verify that the bypass is set properly -- air coming out the hot water faucet, but not the heater drain plug.
So, after doing all those little details with the compressor (again, faster to do than to type it up) it's not a whole lot of work to just open the faucets and let them blow out.
I made up an adapter that has hose threads on one end, and an air quick release fitting on the other end. Lets me snap on the end of the compressor air hose, without having to hold an air chuck on the adapters you normally see in the stores. That makes it a very simple one-man operation -- so simple I see no reason to skip that step.
Whether to blow out the lines, pump the pink stuff, or both (or just open the low point drains) is a decision that each person needs to make for themselves. You need to take into account the complexity of your plumbing, how well it drains, any special appliances (like washing machine, dish washer, ice maker, filter systems, etc.) and your location. Some places down South may have minimal freeze risk, and with a simple plumbing system just draining the lines may work. Move far North, with the risk of a several months long hard freeze, and add in a complex system with lots of appliances, and using every possible precaution may be the way to go.
It all depends on your situation, and how worried you are about freeze damage.
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robertbick
Upstate NY
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travellerw wrote:Ok well I had to respond cause I'm a little different.
1. Blow out the lines.
2. Run Pink Stuff through everything.
3. Blow pink stuff out and down the drains.
I found that if I left the pink stuff in all winter it would take a long time for the taste to go away. So since its already done the work (Displaced any left over water) I blow it right out. Takes a little longer but I think its worth it.
That's exactly how I do it! See there are two very intelligent people here.
Bob
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