TURK2500
USA
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Joined: 04/12/2005
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DavidP wrote:snip......I will most likely try the 750’s and see how they do and then decide.
Trying the 750lb rated bars is a plan, but I would also load your TV/TT up simulating "loaded for camping" and head to the local CAT scale. IMO the CAT scale will tell you more than towing the TT down the road with the 750lb bars.
Also keep in mind that your TV's towing weight rating (9,100lbs) may be reduced by your actual "loaded" TV weight. Check your TV's GCWR.
Just food for thought.
Turk2500
05 Jayco Eagle, 278FBS, UVW 7,063lbs, GVWR 9,000lbs.
Tongue Weight: Dry 913lbs/Loaded 1,200lbs.
02 Chevy, 2500HD/4x4, 6.0L/4:10, EC/LS/SB, Prodigy, GCWR 16,000lbs.
TV/TT loaded: 14,700lbs.
Putnam XDR Class V, Reese HP Dual Cam.
00 HD Road King Classic.
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Jerry9n
Michigan
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My advice on the CAT scales is to make 3 separate weighs: one with just the TV--that will give you front and rear axle weights, one with the TV and trailer with NO WDH bars on--that will give you each TV axle and the trailer axle, and finally one with the WDH bars on. CAT only charges $1 for each weigh after the first if it is within 24 hours. Most places will let you hook and unhook there.
With these along with front and rear wheel well heights of the TV you can pretty well figure out if things are working right.
I found out that I got to the GVWR of the trailer real quick (in fact a little over with a full water tank).
I would recommend anyone that gets a new trailer get it scaled empty first then do the above. It's real easy to put a lot of "stuff" into them.
Jerry9n
2009 23' Cikira Escape EXP
2006 Ford Expedition
Reese Pro Series SC
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BarneyS
S.E. Lower Michigan
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Sorry David but I mis-read your post. I thought you said Nissan does NOT recommend using WD on trailers over 5000lbs. My bad!
I think if it were me I'd use the 1000lb bars.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
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PopsRacer
Okc, Ok
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Yea, I'd definitely use 1,000-lbs bars. From what I was told, Nissan's WDH requirement for anything over 5,000-lbs implies the general rule of thumb of 10% which would be a 500-lbs hitch weight, but i dunno. I just know that you'd never be able to hold close to 800-lbs w/o using WD because the coil springs are too soft and the load-leveling system would struggle with trying to hold the rear up, the front tires would be way to light to be safe.
The 26p says it has a 760-lbs dry hitch weight on Jayco's site. I would guess it'd be 800-lbs or more when loaded. My hitch weight is a little over 800-lbs and there's no way I'd use anything less than 10k bars.
I don't think I'd try the 750-lbs bars unless I weighed the tongue and knew for fact that it's 700-lbs or less when fully loaded. Then I'd be concerned about the times that we climb in there while parked but still hitched up because I alone weigh a couple hundred pounds more than the 50-lbs left allowed in the rating and wouldn't want to find out the hard way what happens to overloaded WD bars. 
2005 6" Lifted Nissan Armada LE (Offroad Beast)
2007 Jay Flight 29BHS
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DavidP
Raleigh
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PopsRacer wrote:Yea, I'd definitely use 1,000-lbs bars. From what I was told, Nissan's WDH requirement for anything over 5,000-lbs implies the general rule of thumb of 10% which would be a 500-lbs hitch weight, but i dunno. I just know that you'd never be able to hold close to 800-lbs w/o using WD because the coil springs are too soft and the load-leveling system would struggle with trying to hold the rear up, the front tires would be way to light to be safe.
The 26p says it has a 760-lbs dry hitch weight on Jayco's site. I would guess it'd be 800-lbs or more when loaded. My hitch weight is a little over 800-lbs and there's no way I'd use anything less than 10k bars.
I don't think I'd try the 750-lbs bars unless I weighed the tongue and knew for fact that it's 700-lbs or less when fully loaded. Then I'd be concerned about the times that we climb in there while parked but still hitched up because I alone weigh a couple hundred pounds more than the 50-lbs left allowed in the rating and wouldn't want to find out the hard way what happens to overloaded WD bars.
I will most likely go with the 1k bars but will tow it empty from the dealer with the 750’s since no one local has them in stock. Before I buy bars I’m going to weigh the trailer. 1k bars is what I will most likely settle on.
Overloading a 750 bar in my case by about 100 lbs tops is not a huge factor. The dry tongue weight on the trailer is 760. The main difference in using the 750 vs. 1000 bars will be the 750’s will have a little more flex/bounce vs. the stiffer ride of the 1000. The 750 will work a little harder. I’m not dropping 1200 lbs on them, more like the max they are rated for or maybe 50-100 more tops. That bar ain’t breakin if that’s what you mean.
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PopsRacer
Okc, Ok
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DavidP wrote:... That bar ain’t breakin if that’s what you mean.
Gotcha.... I wasn't sure how they're made and rated then I read in another thread that their designed to hold up under more weight than they're actually rated for. If it's just more bouncing around then that might not be too bad I guess. I just know that I have to setup my WD pretty agressively and I'm guessing that it could've been relaxed a little more if I'd gotten a 12k setup instead of a 10k.
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DavidP
Raleigh
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Funny, I’ve talked to several RV Dealers and they all said I would be fine with the 750’s. The local hitch shop who is well known and experienced said based on the numbers the 750’s most likely would be what I should run. He did say he would want to see the set up to be sure though. One of my concerns which he echoed is that going to stiff or having too much bar is far worse. Basically said you want some spring in the bar to ensure it is doing its job. Too much bar and they are not doing there job and in many cases as we know could cause damage. Said since your most likely going to stay under 1000 the 750’s would be a better match. Basically said your stuck right in the middle and since you already have them run them and see how they do. I asked if there was any potential danger and was told no and the weights described fall within the bars capabilities.
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PopsRacer
Okc, Ok
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Then let me share what I've been learning about mine. I mean he may be right and you might be good to go but I don't think it'd work for me and I'm assuming we're fairly close in hitch weight. I also assume that most RV Shops are more familiar with working with SRS Leaf Spring suspensions rather than IRS Coil Spring setups, aren't they??
Here's my CAT Scale results playing with the WD to learn what I could about it and tweak it for the most desireable results:
From calculating my TV axle weights, it looks to me like my loaded Hitch Weight is 820-lbs??
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14608
Pops wrote:
2005 Armada LE by itself:
Steer Axle: 3280 lbs
Drive Axle: 3120 lbs
Trailer Axle: 0 lbs
Gross Weight: 6400 lbs
Armada with aggressive WD: (this is where I keep it at)
Steer Axle: 3240 lbs
Drive Axle: 3980 lbs
Trailer Axle: 5220 lbs
Gross Weight: 12440 lbs
..... and here you can see I keep the L-Brackets raised up to the 2nd from bottom hole:
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