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 > Cost to build RV Garage?

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benbovac

Horse Country Kentucky

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Posted: 04/21/10 02:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

we are just starting a 24 x 50 RV garage with 14' high doors. I am building it myself, projected cost is around $30K. The garage will be brick to match our home. You can save a lot by doing it yourself if you are up to the task.

Good luck


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Bumpyroad

Virginia

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Posted: 04/21/10 03:25pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

14 foot is too narrow IMHO. won't leave much room for a wide door.
bumpy





Ivylog

Blairsville, GA and WPB, FL.

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Posted: 04/21/10 04:07pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd go at least 16x50 and a ruff guess is $50/sq ft which is 1/2 of what you can get a house built for in GA or $40K. 6" of concrete will be 15 yds at $100/yd plus $1000 to finish or $2500. I'd actually make the perimeter 8" and the middle 4" with 4000psi and fiber and rebar in the perimeter only. This may be a little hard to do as a add on, but here is what I did from a previous post:
The hindges are 2" pipe nipples threaded into floor flanges except at the bottome where the nipple is in the concrete 8" out from the wall.There is a cable running from the top hindge to the bottom outside cornor with a turnbuckle so as I added weight/siding to the door I could pull it back level.
http://i12.tinypic.com/4zmjfrn.jpg width=640

Everything in the MH bay is set up so that a false floor can be put in level with the rest of the house when we no longer have a MH.


Finished product


As you can see, 16' will work, but it's on the tight side with the slideouts extended.


* This post was edited 04/21/10 04:19pm by Ivylog *


This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.

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32dgrz

Iowa

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Posted: 04/21/10 05:34pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator







40 to 50 is about right

This is our 30 X 50
14 foot doors are a must

* This post was edited 04/21/10 09:49pm by 32dgrz *

CurtisG

Vinton, Louisiana

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Posted: 04/21/10 05:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had one built last year with slab, 20'X40' by 14' high with 14'X14' roll up door and a 3' walk-in door for about $15,000. This was a wood framed building with 6"x6" post 5' apart with 2"X6" framing every 24" and covered with colored metal walls and roof. Ended up with about 13' height clearance. Slab had rebar and wire mesh along with fiberglas reinforced concrete and so far no cracks yet! I had to get a building permit and also a certified engineers stamped drawing before starting.
It has a 120 MPH wind rating because of the hurricanes we have almost annually! I wired it for lighting and 50amp power for the motorhome myself to save some cost. Overall I am very happy with it but I wish I had made it at least 45' to 50' long because if I ever want a longer motorhome I will have to have it extended. I ended up with about 38.5' long on the inside. The 20' width is great because there is plenty of room for the slides.


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Hjudge49

St. Augustine, Fl.

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Posted: 04/21/10 05:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can probably get a better deal by building a pre-fab steel building, then finishing the exterior with stucco to match the house. I agree that you should make it 18-20 feet wide, 50 feet long, pour your slab with re-bar and thicken the edges to at least 6", and thicken an area under the track for the wheels to at least 6" deep and 24" wide. Plan on installing 50 amp electrical service, H2O, and a sewer dump. I don't think I would A/C it, but I would install some large vents on each end, probably with high capacity exhaust fans. My pad is 28'x48' and is 6" thick, 4000# concrete, with re-bar and fiberglas, thickened to 8"x 18" wide edges. i have not had a crack in 5 years. Get a quote from one of the national steel building companies, a seperate one for the slab, and a third from the Stucco dude.





427435

Rochester, Mn

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Posted: 04/21/10 06:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First, the concrete. Specify 4500 psi, air entrained concrete.

Second, it will crack (even with rebar) unless a proper ground work is done under the concrete pad. Probably crack then too, but the cracks won't separate much.

Get several quotes. I added onto a garage and the cheapest was half the highest. And the cheap quoter did good work. I don't know your local carpenter scale, but they should be hungry right now. Materials are also lower than they were 2-3 years ago. My "GUESS" is $15,000 to $25,000.


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ticat900

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Posted: 04/21/10 07:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CurtisG wrote:

I had one built last year with slab, 20'X40' by 14' high with 14'X14' roll up door and a 3' walk-in door for about $15,000. This was a wood framed building with 6"x6" post 5' apart with 2"X6" framing every 24" and covered with colored metal walls and roof. Ended up with about 13' height clearance. Slab had rebar and wire mesh along with fiberglas reinforced concrete and so far no cracks yet! I had to get a building permit and also a certified engineers stamped drawing before starting.
It has a 120 MPH wind rating because of the hurricanes we have almost annually! I wired it for lighting and 50amp power for the motorhome myself to save some cost. Overall I am very happy with it but I wish I had made it at least 45' to 50' long because if I ever want a longer motorhome I will have to have it extended. I ended up with about 38.5' long on the inside. The 20' width is great because there is plenty of room for the slides.

Your full of chit.You cant build a 800 sq foot shop 14 feet high for 19.00 per square foot even if you did all the labour yourself and hand mixed the cement.where do U guys dream up these storys?

kjburns

Prescott, AZ

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Posted: 04/21/10 06:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We're in the middle of building one now. It's 22' wide x 50' long x 20' high with insulation, stucco, drywall, full hook-ups etc. The total is $84,000 plus local taxes. The roof is concrete tiles to match the house. It will also have a breezeway connecting the garage and the house. The door is 14' x 14' with an opener. We're putting in gas heat, but no air conditioning.


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40RV 40BOAT

Austin, MN

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Posted: 04/21/10 07:16pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When you put rebar in put double rebar around the out side, then X it through the middle. Tie it all together, then put wire mesh, 1/8 in. thick mesh, like wire fencing. Make sure the rebar and mesh is off the ground when pouring or you need some one to pull it up into the concrete. Make it at least 5 inch thick, and 8 in, for wall support. The concrete will still crack but you can help by putting cuts into it. With the rebar and wire mesh any crack will not separate.

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