mtofell1
Oregon
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Joined: 12/08/2006
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I'm about 3 months in on my first new trailer and it's been overall pretty good. A couple things I'll need to take in for warranty once the camping season is over.
I did the power tongue jack and it's super nice.
Also, one of the first times I opened a cabinet, both hinge screws ripped clean out. The length is absolutely ridiculous... about 3/8" penetrating into the crappy particle board. So, I replaced every hinge screw with longer ones. Kind of annoying to buy a new trailer and have something like that happen but it only took me about 2 hours to do them all and now they're rock solid.
Overall, as the others said, just enjoy it but don't expect perfection. Things will come up. I find having the warranty just puts me in a better frame of mind. For my first ever camping in an RV I honestly don't care if something breaks (unless it's the toilet  ) I'm so happy I bought a new TT and an extended warranty. It really makes the experience more enjoyable..... which, afterall, is the whole point.
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DHCamper
Michigan
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Joined: 01/12/2012
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jerem0621 wrote:Re-set up/verify the WD hitch because the dealer may have got it wrong.
Not "may" most likely "did" get it wrong... read the installation manual for the hitch, because the dealer doesn't!
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4x4Bob
California.
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Joined: 05/17/2002
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Crawl under the TT and look around. On Mine I used 3 tubes of caulking to seal holes that mice and bugs could have entered the unit. In my case I found hatches cut into the under seal, large holes for wiring, etc. Then at night time with all of the inside lights on do it again to see if you find any light coming out.
Bob
2001 2500 Silverado LS 4x4 6.0, 4.10
2007 Jayco Eagle 288RLS
Cocktails for 6, Dinner for 4, Sleeps 2
--------------------
End of dirt road, no signs in sight, sun going down: I am not lost, just getting ready to go camping.
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troll3193
SouthWest, MI USA
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Joined: 07/07/2004
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4x4Bob wrote:Crawl under the TT and look around. On Mine I used 3 tubes of caulking to seal holes that mice and bugs could have entered the unit. In my case I found hatches cut into the under seal, large holes for wiring, etc. Then at night time with all of the inside lights on do it again to see if you find any light coming out.
Bob
great advice too.
2006 RAM 3500 MegaCab w/Cummins Turbo Diesel
Mopar Exhaust Brake
2004 Dutchemen 31BK
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RoyB
King George, VA
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Joined: 04/13/2008
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gcloss wrote:The first thing I'd do is go camping and enjoy !!!!!
X2 on this...
I would add do your first couple of nights sitting in your driveway or close-by so you can get the feel what you might need to bring along and also figure out all of the little things you wasn't told about about...
Then head out for the real "TEST"
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - PM me
Roy and Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS
POPUP PHOTOs-Pg52-Pg56
.JPG)
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smokedummy
McLennan County Texas
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Joined: 06/08/2003
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Screens to keep bugs out of water heater, furnace, fridge.
travel pics etc
2012 Skyline Mountain View Retro 140, 16'.
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dodge guy
Bartlett IL
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Joined: 03/23/2004
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Don`t forget to install a black tank rinser before you use the black tank. much less disgusting to do it now rather than after a few uses!
Wife Kim 
Son Brandon 11yrs
Daughter Marissa 10yrs
Dog Shadow 
07 Cherokee 32B
02 Excursion 4X4 V-10 4.30 gear 5Star tuner Y-pipe mod Hellwig sway bar
Reese HP dualcam Prodigy brake controller
A bad day of camping is
better than a good day at work!
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therink
Rochester
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Joined: 05/25/2009
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Maxxi's are made in Thailand, I believe Carlisle ST's are now made in US.
Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Keystone Sydney 340FBH 5'er
2012 Silverado 3500HD, SRW,LTZ,4x4, Z71, Crew, 6.0 Gasser, 4:10 Gears, Standard bed
"These days, I have problems in areas that I used to not have areas", so life is good.
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mlts22
Austin, Texas
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Joined: 11/15/2010
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Here is what I did to get my new trailer camp-ready:
1: Dump and sanitize the water system. It can't hurt to replace the water heater's anode rod (if it is made by Surburban -- Atwoods do not need this) at this time.
2: Get some clear plastic tubs. One tub holds the hitch stuff, and a pair of rubber gloves, so you can stuff the stinger in the receiver without getting grease over you.
3: Get a stinky slinky holder made out of PVC that mounts on the bumper. Don't use the bumper for the sewer hose -- the water of the hose will make the inside of the bumper rust, and it will cause pinholes in the hose eventually. Don't mount anything else on the square bumper (such as a bike rack), since too much torque (caused by bikes bouncing up and down) can rip the bumper off the mountings easily.
4: Replace the CH751 compartment locks with something automotive grade. This isn't for security as much as to keep the key from breaking off in the lock, as the CH751 locks are cheap.
5: Check the converter that came with the unit. If it isn't a three stage, consider chucking it for one that won't boil your batteries over time.
6: Get a pair of BAL X-Chocks, or Roto-Choks. I recommend buying the BAL X-Chocks individually so you get two clicky wrenches.
7: Get a set of padlocks. I'd consider at least three long-shackled ones, all keyed alike, one for each X-Chock, and one for the trailer latch. Then a trailer lock for the hitch.
8: For the hitch pin, if your TV is a Ford/Chevy/Dodge, hit up Bolt Lock and get a locking pin from them. It keys to your truck key, which means it is one less key on your keyring. It also provides very good pick resistance, and resistance to grime and road grit.
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Mark and Linda
Smyrna, Tennessee
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Joined: 11/06/2011
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Something I put on my awning rods, some straps..just in case it might want to deploy on its own for some reason. I found them on Amazon.com, I think, made by Camco. I also mounted some small levels on mine so I could take a quick glance to see if it is level before I unhook.
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