| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: New Format
How come the first page of the list of threads has a "next" at the bottom but not the 2nd and subsequent pages??? It looks like some high school hacker is doing the programming!!
|
427435
|
11/23/09 08:13am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: WINTERIZING QUESTION ?
I wouldn't put water in until you will be in plus 32 degree weather while driving.
|
427435
|
11/22/09 10:42pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Ford 460 EFI - Starting Problem
Mark,
I have tried letting it stay in the run position but it would not start.
I've tried it a couple times during the past 2 weeks and same symptoms. At least now with the cycle thing, I don't have to take the doghouse off and take the air intake off to spray starting fluid.
It now must be either a cranking fuel delivery issue or the pump is not holding the pressure. Does anybody now how to diagnose the fuel delivery issue? Otherwise I need to buy a fuel pressure gauge.
I have had some pump issues and I have to get the tank dropped to see if the fuel sack is dirty. If not, I have to put a pump in.
Mike
A number of 460 owners have just mounted a separate external electric pump (near the tank) to deal with the in-tank fuel pump problems.
|
427435
|
11/22/09 10:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: How does the US Gear Toad Brake System Work?
I've used mine for about five years now. Moved it from our first toad (Suzuki XL7) to our current toad (2000 Lexus RX300). Works quite well.
I am wondering what is causing poster 427435's frequent failures. I've not read of very many problems with U.S.Gear braking systems. I'll bet he's wondering too.
I think they had a batch of poorly soldered circuit boards. Both my original box and their first replacement failed in the same way. At the time, there were others on the dingy towing forum with similar problems.
I'm not sure about the vacuum pump-----I took it apart and the pump is ok, but the motor won't run with 12 volts supplied directly to it. The pump, of course, lives in the engine compartment of our Explorer year around. Lots of heat, dust, and vibration.
|
427435
|
11/22/09 09:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: tire load range selection
Your problem may be the higher ply rating or it may be the tires themselves. I went to load range G when only F was required (245-19.5) and run them at 80 psi pressure which was the recommendation for the load range F tires. After 25,000 miles, they're wearing well and I couldn't tell any difference in ride. They are Goodyear 670 tires, however-----not some Chinese tires.
|
427435
|
11/22/09 09:14pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Ford 460 EFI - Starting Problem
Another consideration is that there may be a fuel enrichment valve that is supposed to dump fuel into the intake manifold during starting. That might not be working. After several short cranking cycles, enough fuel may be in the cylinders to fire and run.
Many fuel injected engines also turn the fuel pump on in the "run" key position to build pressure before you turn the key to "start." Try just turning the key to "run" and wait for 3 seconds before cranking.
|
427435
|
11/22/09 09:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Air filter configuration
Sully and others.....your logic doesn't pan out. The total available surface area on the inside of a round filter is far less than the surface area on the outside of a filter. Sure, it will breathe going either direction until it starts to get covered with dirt. If I take a piece of paper (representing dirt) and cover half of the outside of a round filter, I'll still have half of the filter to flow air. If I take the same piece of paper and cover the inside of the same round filter I'll probably lose almost three quarters of the surface area or opening.
Your example has nothing to do with a pleated filter. The air doesn't flow through the outside (or inside) diameter------it flows through the pleats. And there's basically as much area on the clean, inner side of a pleat as on the dirty, outer side.
As I said before, take the media out of a round filter, cut it so it is no longer round, and flatten out the pleats. The clean, inner side will be the same area as the dirty, outer side.
|
427435
|
11/22/09 08:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Fuel Mileage?
If I can can the subject for second, I was corrected on my trans.I thought it had a 5 speed but I am really am not sure. I did not ask but I saw a add for one just like the One I bought and it was advertised
as having a 5 speed. I also saw where ford started using the 5 speed in there trucks in 2003. I just assumed that was what was in this one. I will not pick mine up for about 2 weeks and I will find out then.I did get a good deal so I was not that concerned.
Jeff
The F53 chassis didn't get the 3 valve V10 with 362 hp and the 5 speed transmission until the 2006 chassis year (which I think started sometime in 2005). Salesmen and ads can be misleading or flat wrong.
|
427435
|
11/22/09 12:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Changes in the Forum?
I can easily live with the blank space, but how about getting "next" back on the bottom of the list of threads page???
Boy, that was sure a quick fix. Now there's a "next" at the bottom of the page.
Well, maybe not a complete fix. How about doing the same thing on the Class A list of threads page???
|
427435
|
11/22/09 09:06am |
Around the Campfire
|
|
RE: Changes in the Forum?
I can easily live with the blank space, but how about getting "next" back on the bottom of the list of threads page???
Boy, that was sure a quick fix. Now there's a "next" at the bottom of the page.
|
427435
|
11/22/09 09:04am |
Around the Campfire
|
|
RE: Anybody tow a Ford Explorer Sport Trak 4x4
We tow our '03 Explorer 4 down. Some Explorers, regelar and Sport Trac can't be. I know the ones with 2WD, V8 or RSC traction control can't be. Call your local Ford dealer and see if there is a Neutral Tow kit available for your year and model. Basically the Ford Neutral Tow kit does a couple things. One, they modify the computer so that when a certain sequence is performed (holding brake while pushing & holding 4x4 Auto and waiting for the NEUTRAL TOW light to light). Second, they install a small box that has an LED on it to let you know when it's in TOW mode. What the computer program does is shift the transfer case between 4HI and 4LOW, i.e. Neutral. If it's available for your Sport Trac it should cost about $120 dollars to install.
You're wrong about V8 Explorers not being towable. I've towed my 2003 V8 Explorer for 25,000 miles since I had the neutral tow kit installed.
|
427435
|
11/22/09 09:01am |
Dinghy Towing
|
|
RE: Changes in the Forum?
I can easily live with the blank space, but how about getting "next" back on the bottom of the list of threads page???
|
427435
|
11/22/09 08:56am |
Around the Campfire
|
|
RE: Spark plug change for 2000 RV
DO NOT use anti-seize on the plugs. This is not recommended by Ford, or by Permatex (who makes most anti-seize compound). This requires lowering the torque value up on install, and increases the risk of over-torquing. I've changed mine twice, no issues with them coming out.
While it is true that using an anti-seize does lower the torque value, the torque value I provided in my post is what many Ford modular engine owners have found works with anti-seize (spend some time on the link to the Ford forum that I provided). A steel plug in an aluminum head causes galvanic corrosion which can lead to stripped threads or a broken plug when the plug is removed. In addition, removing a steel plug from an aluminum head may also cause galling of the aluminum threads which then weakens the threads. This in turn increases the risk of the replacement plug blowing out.
After twisting off a "peanut" plug in another engine (after 80,000 miles of use), I won't run plugs more than about 50,000 miles and the new ones get anti-seize and an appropriate reduction in installation torque.
|
427435
|
11/22/09 08:43am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Spark plug change for 2000 RV
The plugs will probably go 100,000 miles and still fire the fuel mixture. The problem may well come when you do change them. The longer they are in the heads the more likely they will be to strip the aluminum threads out of the heads when the plugs are finally removed.
With the early V10's (1999 to about 2002 or 2003), there were other spark plug related issues. There are only 4 aluminum threads in the head holding the plugs in. If they weren't carefully installed (and maybe even if they were), they can work a little loose and then beat the threads out and a plug blows. This has happened from in warranty to 100,000+ miles.
What really needs to be done is to carefully change the plugs and then recheck the torque every 10,000 to 20,000 miles.
Here's a couple of previous posts on the best way to change the plugs:
IIRC, the 1999 motor was one that the heads had only about 4 threads holding the plugs in... Spark Plug change on this model (and all models of V10 for that matter) has a very definite procedure and torque values...
If your intent on changing plugs, I would suggest that before you tackle this job ypu go over to the FTE V10 FORUM and ask for a little guidance - they can direct you to the correct procedure and parts required...
Les
This is very good advice. A Ford dealer may not be your best choice either, as they will be in a hurry. After researching the issue, I changed my own. It wasn't too hard as they are very easy to get to once the doghouse on my MH was removed.
1. Remove the coils from each plug. You will need a small metric socket to do this-----I forget the exact size.
2. Remove the plug boots.
3. Use an air compressor to blow the dirt out of the wells that the plugs sit in.
Now comes the really important stuff if you don't want to rip the threads out of the aluminum head with the steel plug when removing the plug.
4. Squirt some WD40 or similar into the wells around the plugs. LET THAT SIT OVERNIGHT.
5. Loosen the plugs only 1/8 to 1/4 turn!!!!
6. Spray some more WD40 into the wells and let that sit overnight.
7. Then remove the plugs.
8. Put a SMALL amount of HIGH TEMP anti-seize on the plugs-----be careful to not get any on the tips of the plugs.
9. Using an in-lb (repeat, IN-lb) torque wrench, install the plugs using 150-168 in-lbs torque.
The above is what I did at about 40,000 miles, partially because I wanted to be sure the plugs were in correctly and partially because I had a plug on a different vehicle corrode in place and break off when I tried to remove it after 80,000 miles of use.
I do plan on going back and checking the torque after 10,000 miles.
|
427435
|
11/21/09 10:09pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Air filter configuration
This doesn't sound right......you loose surface area if you flow from the inside out. On a flat air filter like you typically see in new cars it wouldn't matter. In a round air filter, generally used in DP's you have a corrugated piece of paper that is glued and held together by wire or nylon mesh. As the paper fans out, it creates more surface area on the outside of the filter vs the smaller/tighter area on the inside. You would want that larger area collecting air and filtering dirt. If you don't the filter would become dirty/plugged almost twice or three times as fast.
The difference in area would be extremely small. Remember that the filter media starts out as a flat piece that has the same area on both sides. Forming the media into a round, pleated filter doesn't do much to change that.
On the other hand, I've never heard of a round engine air filter that filtered from the inside out-----but I suppose there's always a first time.
|
427435
|
11/21/09 09:44pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Fuel Mileage?
If it's a 2004, you don't have a 5 speed transmission. Don't plan on more than 8 mpg without a toad-----less with one. If you get more, consider yourself lucky.
|
427435
|
11/21/09 09:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Buying Class A - how to start narrowing down Manufacturers
research here, read here and then surf PPL Motorhomes for pricing.
Top brands with happy owners here are:
Winnebago and sister Itasca
Tiffin
Newmar
Triple E
Those are the companies still in business. If you're looking used then there are a few still worth looking at - brands that are gone and no more, or brands that have had the legal company structure so radically changed that the existing can be considered Orphans.
Monaco
America Coach (Fleetwood)
Travel Supreme
Alpine
Country Coach
all of the above make solid coaches for the money. I've no doubt missed a few but there you go ;)
This pretty well says it all!! In my case, I wouldn't even consider anything besides the first 4 that are still in business. I messed up the rear corner of our MH on our last trip (don't want to talk about it). Checked with a Winny dealer and both body parts I needed were in Winny stock. Not bad for a 10 year old coach. And they have technical support and manuals for their old units as well. Sooner or later you will need both.
|
427435
|
11/21/09 09:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Windshield leak and slideouts
I don't know how high the pressure is, but I open the driver's window when I run the slides in or out. There's a very noticeable air flow through the window.
|
427435
|
11/21/09 04:32pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Pictures of your cool car
I have a favourite Cobra story, I wonder if you've heard it.
It was around the time when you could buy the original HP 289 or the 427. A guy went to a dealer & said he wanted the 427. The dealer questioned this as he said that you normally need to graduate up to the 427, as it was so wild to drive. The buyer was insistent that he could easily handle the 427 & he could well afford it.
The salesman insisted though that he give the 427 a good long test drive. So off they went. Within a few blocks though, the customer was having second thoughts as he was scaring himself to death with the savage acceleration and great braking & roadholding. They got back to the dealership & the customer agreed that maybe he should start off with the milder 289 as he would clearly kill himself in the 427.
"I'm sorry" said the salesman, "That WAS the 289 you tried!"
That's a good story, although probably an urban legend kind of thing. I have my own, first hand story, from when I was considering buying the 67 Vette with the 427/435 hp engine. I was 23 and had never driven anything faster than a Ford 352 with a 2 barrel carb (remember them). I found a dealer that would let me test drive a Vette with the base 350/300 hp engine that his service manager was driving. The service manager went along, of course. I punched it coming down an interstate on-ramp and it scared me enough that I started reconsidering the 427/435 hp option. But I was young and foolish and went ahead with ordering the 427/435 hp car. It showed up 4 months later and I couldn't have been happier. Tremendous power and acceleration once the tires hooked up.
However, I couldn't figure out how the end carbs (3x2 setup) opened, but Chevy was saying stuff about internal vacuum so I figured things were going on that I couldn't see. Then Hot Rod magazine had a photo of the 427/435 hp engine on the cover of their September 1967 magazine. The picture showed some external vacuum lines and a tee that weren't on my car :? . Went back to the dealer and shortly had the parts on my car. I got on the freeway and punched it and for the first time the trips opened :E !!!!
|
427435
|
11/21/09 08:27am |
Around the Campfire
|
|
RE: Unisteel® G670 RV
I put a set of the 670's on 4 years and 25,000 miles ago-----just when they changed their inflation tables. I also had an alignment done at the same time. The tires are wearing fine and I've been completely satisfied.
|
427435
|
11/21/09 08:04am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
