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Forum
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RE: How tight do you make an inverted flare connection ?
It helps to think about what is happening when you tighten a fitting like this- in a regular flair fitting you are slightly flattening the copper flair to seal the joint, but in an inverted flair fitting like you are dealing with, there isn't a lot of give. Once you get it tight, what has to give to tighten it more? On this connection, you have a near solid brass fitting in to another near solid brass fitting, so there really isn't much there which will stretch.
On this, I would honk it down good, check for leaks, and not worry about it.
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Chris Bryant
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08/23/10 04:07pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic Refrigerator Door Reversal
I haven't dealt with that model, but my notes say:
KIT INCLUDES:
2 HINGE HOLE PLUGS
2 UPPER & LOWER DOOR HINGES - BLACK
1 ATTACHMENT FOR TOP DECOR STRIP
4 SIDE PROFILE PLUGS
1 DOOR LABEL (INFORMATION LABEL FOR INSPECTION & CLEANING OF REFER)
1 UPPER TOP CAP
2 DOOR PAN PLUGS
4 HINGE HOLE PLUGS
2 CENTER ATTACHMENT PLUGS
1 4mm DRILL
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Chris Bryant
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08/23/10 06:37am |
Tech Issues
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RE: elect.. awning locks?
Nope- the motor will keep it from unrolling.
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Chris Bryant
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08/22/10 03:26pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Pigtails 1/4 inverted flare/Regulator size ?
An RV place should have the fittings, or you might be able to find them at a NAPA store- 1/4" female inverted flare X 1/4" NPT.
Or- They do make Pigtails with the 1/4" NPT threads.
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Chris Bryant
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08/22/10 03:16pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Getting rid of a Refrigerator
Scrap dealers take them around here.
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Chris Bryant
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08/22/10 11:32am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Air Conditioner Issues in New 2010 321BH Laredo
Has the dealer even looked at the unit? While a too small unit could be the problem, bad installation is a common problem, with air leaks in the duct work, air recirculating from outlet to inlet, etc.
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Chris Bryant
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08/22/10 06:30am |
Tech Issues
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RE: X10 control of air conditioner
Find the 12 volt feed to the A/C (which is usually the same as the furnace), and switch it.
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Chris Bryant
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08/22/10 06:07am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Refrigerator Fires
Have you thought about a 12 volt compressor type like this Norcold, which should fit in to the existing cutout?
The main problem with this retrofit would be cost (about the same as an absorption model), and venting- it would take some minor modification, as delivered the heat vents to the interior, and in an RV that would leave the interior open to the outside.
And- back to the OP- refrigerators really are not the most common cause of fires in RVs- in motorized RVs it is engine fires, with electrical fires close behind.
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Chris Bryant
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08/21/10 04:12pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Speed control of electric motor, or 6 V
10 amps?! What is that, a radiator fan? The electronic way to do it would be with a pulse width modulation circuit- they make 12 volt dimmers which would do the job, but finding a 10 amp one would take some digging.
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Chris Bryant
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08/21/10 06:51am |
Tech Issues
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RE: sensor wire
I like to use the splicers for phone lines for stuff like that- an example.
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Chris Bryant
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08/20/10 06:15am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Does propane or electric give you faster fridge cool down?
The whole thing works because of Dalton's Law, which basically says if you have a mixture of gasses in an enclosed space, each gas will be at its own pressure, and the sum of the pressures equals the total of those added together. That, added to gravity which keeps different liquids and gasses in different parts of the cooling unit lets the absorption refrigerator work.
Basically, you boil ammonia out of the water ammonia mixture, the water condenses out quickly and runs back down, the ammonia condenses out in the fins at the top of the unit, and the liquid ammonia runs down through a small tube in to the freezer portion. This part of the cooling unit is filled with hydrogen, which has a low pressure. Because of this low pressure the ammonia boils, which removes heat.
The ammonia gas is absorbed into the liquid in the bottom coils, ready to start the whole thing again.
A neat old item that used the same principals is the Crosley Icy Ball.
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Chris Bryant
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08/19/10 04:09pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How long to charge a battery via generator, 1000w vs 2000w.
35 amps at 12 volts isn't much- amps times volts equals watts, so 14.2 X 35 = 496 watts, ad probably 10% for loss, and you should still be well beneath the 900 watts the 1000 will provide.
(I went with 14.2 for the bulk charge voltage).
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Chris Bryant
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08/19/10 09:18am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Is there life left in this anode?
Am I missing something here? Are all Atwoods stainless steel tanks?
From the service manual:
"The Atwood water heater tank is constructed of a core of high strength aluminum. The interior of the tank consists of a
15% thickness of type 7072 aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the rolling process.
This material protects the tank from the affects of heavy metals and salts found in waters throughout the country. It is
anodic to these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined tank except it will last much longer.
There is also no need to replace an anode on a yearly basis."
Why would Atwood send the water heater to the RV builder with an anode rod installed if it's not needed.
They don't.
Does anyone believe the RV manufacturer is going to additional expense of removing the drain plug and installing anode rods on his own?
They won't- this was added aftermarket.
The fact that the anode rod is degrading shows galvanic action is taking place so it's still performing a usful function in preventing that action from affecting the drain plug or electric element surround.
That I agree with-it is doing something, and to me any sacrificial erosion the anode takes is some that the tank doesn't have to.
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Chris Bryant
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08/19/10 05:46am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Is there life left in this anode?
That looks like an anode for an Atwood model to me- too short and too small threads for a Suburban.
That said- it does indeed look like it is doing something, even though Atwood does not recommend ad on anodes.
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Chris Bryant
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08/18/10 02:03pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: How to choose a good torch for camping?
About once a month Harbor Freight has coupons for a free "torch" which is as good as those pictured.
Free always beats cheap.
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Chris Bryant
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08/18/10 07:32am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Onan 5500 still surging
I would say the problem is the idle jet- not the main jet. It may be so plugged that a rebuild or replacement is needed.
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Chris Bryant
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08/17/10 04:07pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: water heater and light problem...
If the screen is black, you need to clean the burner tube out by running a brush through it.
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Chris Bryant
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08/17/10 05:36am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Prosine 2.0: what charging curve do you use for GCBs ?
Not really specifically answering your question, but because of some of the info I found on this forum, I now go to the battery manufacturers website and self program what they say, which is usually higher than the presets.
Trojan wants something like 14.6 volts, and the AGMs I am using now want close to that- much higher than the pre-programed AGM setting.
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Chris Bryant
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08/16/10 03:15pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Google Ad Sense Question
I would certainly try it- Google is pretty good about serving relevant ads, and you can block ads by category.
Between the 2 sites I have ads on, I get around 600 visits per day (visits- not hits, which are in the tens of thousands), and make around $2-3 per day, which pays for my server.
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Chris Bryant
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08/16/10 02:40pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: 1963 Airstream Avion Fridge HELP w/pics
Wow- that looks like it could be one of the old "zip tube" lighting models, but....
I really wouldn't suggest using any LP in a rig that old until the whole system was leak tested, and the appliances cleaned.
That said- the burner is obviously in the sheet metal enclosure on the bottom right of the top picture. I cannot really make out much in the second picture, but the red button in the middle will be the safety valve, which needs to be held down while lighting until the flame heats the thermocouple, and it is possible that the red button on the left of the middle picture is for lighting- they used to use a zip tube, which is basically a tube with holes drilled in the top. You push the button, light the gas that is coming out, and a the flame basically travels along the top of the tube back to the burner.
It's not something for the faint of heart (I nearly had a heart attack when I first lit one).
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Chris Bryant
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08/14/10 04:19pm |
Tech Issues
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