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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: I need recipe for a ( Zuccni casserole)
Gail, that's funny! I have shredded zucchini in the freezer, but that won't work for your recipe. :(
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Mrs. Mik
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03/18/10 07:56pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: I need recipe for a ( Zuccni casserole)
Gail, that one sounds GREAT! I've already printed it and can't wait to grow some zucchini to try it!
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Mrs. Mik
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03/18/10 01:35pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: I need recipe for a ( Zuccni casserole)
This recipe was really AWESOME and so simple to make! A GREAT way to get rid of extra zucchini! :)
3 cups zucchini, shredded
1 cup carrots, shredded
1/2 cup onion, chopped
1 pkg. Stove Top stuffing (chicken flavor)
1 stick butter, melted
1 cup sour cream
1 can cream of chicken soup
1 cup cheddar cheese, shredded
Mix all ingredients together. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes covered
and 15 minutes uncovered.
Enjoy!
Julie
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Mrs. Mik
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03/18/10 01:14pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: Keeping Refrigerator dry in storage?
If you're level, why won't the door stay open in the first place? I wipe it down in the fall and leave the doors open all the way and don't have an issue. Don't need towels, or props or anything. It just magically stays open until I close it.
Julie
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Mrs. Mik
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03/17/10 08:25pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Buyer Beware, Heritage Extended Warranty
Dee, are you certain that Heritage PAID Camping World? I know YOU paid your $50 deductible, but did you ever call CW to find out if the claim was paid? If not, CW could still be trying to get the money out of Heritage. That seems to be what's happening here. Heritage approves it, but doesn't pay the dealer. The consumer would have no way of knowing unless they actually contacted the dealer to ensure that it was paid.
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Mrs. Mik
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03/17/10 07:38pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Bought A TT and never camped before.....
My best suggestion to you is to take a VIDEO CAMERA to RECORD the walk-through! You WILL forget LOTS of what they tell you, especially since you've never camped before. All systems are new to you, so RECORD what you're told. Zoom in on controls, etc. If you can have a third party come with you to record while you watch and listen is helpful.
When we bought our first TT, my brother-in-law came with to record everything for us. It was great! The first time we went out, we took the camera & tape, but forgot a tape player! When it came time to open the awning, we had to "watch" it through the camera to figure out how to do it, but we got it done! LOL
Also, when we sold the TT, we gave a copy of the tape to the new owners. That way, they had all the same info we had. It really came in handy, because they asked how to use the oven, and we had no idea, as we never used it in the two years we owned the TT! We had to refer back to the tape to figure it out. :B
Also, remember, you are stocking an entire new HOUSE, so there's a lot of "stuff" you're going to need, from kitchen essentials to bedding to various tools to cleaning products. It will seem like a lot at first, but once you've got everything you need it will be great!
Don't forget to have fun! If you have a problem, there are lots of folks at the campground that are willing to help. Don't be shy. Just ask.
Julie
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Mrs. Mik
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03/17/10 05:48pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Antifreeze
Not sure how you dewinterize. What we do is run each faucet and the toilet/shower until the water runs clear. That means the antifreeze is diluted -- a LOT, and would NOT provide any protection the following winter.
Blowing the antifreeze out in the spring to save it means you still have to rinse the water lines thoroughly and spend extra time doing so. I don't know about you, but my time is valuable, too. Performing double-duty to possibly save $5 or $6 isn't worth it to us.
Keep in mind, the OP and many other members are NOT in areas where it routinely gets to TWENTY BELOW ZERO in the winter and stays VERY cold for a LONG time. We winterize in October and don't de-winterize until mid to late April.
When dealing with those types of sub-zero temps, it's just silly to take chances.
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Mrs. Mik
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03/15/10 08:01pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Minimum Days Stay??
I thought this forum was for the freedom to post your thoughts, what ever they may be, within the confines of reason. Why does any one feel it necessary to counter post some one elses thoughts? I don't care if it is a moderator or who it is. Those that do not agree with poster will look past it and go on. Why do we need a cop to police our own personal thinking. Nuff said.
Homer, that's true. However, this forum is also about respect.. The moderator's response, especially being the FIRST one and from a Mod, DOES sound rude. This moderator has a history of being rude. Don't bother searching for the rude posts, as they're usually deleted rather quickly. Why this person is still a mod is beyond me.
However, the gist of that post is correct. The campground DOES get to set the rules and that's understandable. It's frustrating to those of us who work and don't get a four day weekend or extra time off for holidays.
We will find other campgrounds and if the ones with the rules that don't work for us end up losing money because of their policies, we'll, I'll not be shedding any tears for them.
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Mrs. Mik
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03/15/10 07:48pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Antifreeze
As others have said, it's not worth it. Besides, to de-winterize, you have to run the taps. That means WATER is running through them, which is diluting the antifreeze. To me, that means it's not protecting my rig at -20 temps. No, I'll spend the few bucks to buy new antifreeze every year. It's a heck of a lot less expensive than replacing water lines because I was being "cheap."
Railrode, if the antifreeze is killing the grass, you're probably using the "cheap" stuff which has additives in it. Proper RV Antifreeze will not kill your grass.
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Mrs. Mik
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03/15/10 07:40pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Itunes Help, Please! Library File is locked!
I had already tried changing the properties of the .itl file. It wouldn't let me do that as it kept reverting back to "read only".
As for doing anything else, I can't even OPEN iTunes, much less add music.
I did contact tech support and they had me uninstall five programs in total in a specific order. Apparently, you can't just uninstall iTunes without uninstalling the other 4 programs. They've assured me that 99% of the time, that fixes the problem.
I'm now downloading iTunes again. We'll see if it works.
Julie
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Mrs. Mik
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03/15/10 09:21am |
Technology Corner
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Itunes Help, Please! Library File is locked!
I can't open Itunes! Every time I try to, I get a message stating:
The Itunes Library .itl file is locked, on a locked disk or you do not have write permission for this file.
Now, I've found the Library file and when I uncheck "read only" it doesn't keep it that way and automatically goes back to "read only."
HELP! I can't even open stupid Itunes, and my kids are about to kill me if we can't get it open and add songs to our Ipods!
I tried uninstalling and reinstalling iTunes and it did NOTHING! I still get the same error message!
I've looked all over the internet and all I can find is to change the "permissions," which, as stated above, doesn't work!
ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Mrs. Mik
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03/14/10 08:11pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Black water tank too large?
It seems that most agree to leave about 5 gallons of water in the tank at all times. But how do you do this right after you leave the dumping station? You just dumped all the contents, now the tank is dry. How do you add more water at this point?
You can do this a couple ways: hold the pedal UP (as stated previously) for water only and fill/flush the toilet five times after dumping. Each fill should equal about a gallon of water.
Fill a five gallon pail with water from the non-potable water at the dump station and with the foot pedal down (in the OPEN position), carefully dump the pail of water down the toilet.
Hope that helps!
Julie
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Mrs. Mik
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03/13/10 05:25pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Braking: TV or trailer ? How fast can you stop ?
Its interesting to read posts on this forum and see people stating that their TV handles the trailer really well, except for stopping.
I've never seen anyone state that they have issues stopping.
This all brings up an interesting question... which entity should provide the braking power for the trailer, the truck or the trailer ?
The TV brakes should stop the tow vehicle. The trailer brakes should stop the trailer. The TV brakes are not designed, nor have they ever been designed to stop whatever is being towed.
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Mrs. Mik
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03/13/10 03:45pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Black water tank too large?
Oftentimes, with a foot pedal, if you lift UP on the pedal, you get water only, no flush.
We have a 40 gallon black tank and with five people in the family, can easily fill it in one three-day weekend. Course, we use it the way it's intended and used paper goes in there along with the other "normal" liquids and solids. Part of the reason we bought an RV was to have our own toilet. There's NO WAY I'd do anything other than flush used TP.
Julie
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Mrs. Mik
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03/13/10 03:33pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Odd experience at camping world
I spoke with a Suburban rep a week or so ago, because some customers in Australia had a question about the anode rods I ship to them.
The rep told me that all Suburban water heaters are factory shipped with a MAGNESIUM anode rod. He stated that the reason they also sell ALUMINUM rods is because some parts of the country have really AWFUL water. In those cases, the Magnesium rod will erode quite fast, whereas the Aluminum rod will not erode quite so fast. In general, an anode rod should last about two years.
If you are in an area where a Magnesium rod is eroding within a very short time frame, you should use an Aluminum rod. However, if you are in an area where an Aluminum rod is NOT eroding and it's well over 2 years old, it's not doing it's job properly and is NOT protecting your water heater tank. You need to switch to a Magnesium anode rod for full protection.
This seems to fly in the face of all the information I've found on the internet that Suburban water heaters MUST use an Aluminum anode rod and only Atwood uses the Magnesium rod, but it is the information I received directly from a Suburban Tech and I like to think their own techs know what they're talking about.
If you have a water softener in your RV, then you should use an Aluminum rod, because the salt will eat away at a Magnesium rod within a month or two, according to the Tech.
The aluminum anode rod in our 5th wheel is over two years old and shows very little wear. We will be switching it to a Magnesium rod this spring.
Hope this helps!
Julie
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Mrs. Mik
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03/12/10 07:59pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Propane on/off while traveling
(but it's usually a "member" who "stirs the pot")
Yea, what's up with that?? :h
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Mrs. Mik
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03/11/10 05:17pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Propane on/off while traveling
I've posted this in the past, and I guess it's time to post it again.
While this is a couple years old, I still think there's a lot of good information here for anyone with questions about having their propane on or off. It's long, but worth the read.
I "borrowed" the following from another website, written by RV Roadie.
I called the Oregon DOT and confirmed that when fueling, all open flames and sources like the engine, must be turned off. However, they stated that there have been no incidents where running with the propane on, have contributed to igniting an RV fire. They also confirmed that they see no problem with running on Oregon roads with propane appliances running, as long as they are turned off before refueling with any type of fuel. This was confirmed by the state fire marshal.
In Oregon, there is no rule against having your propane on while traveling in their state. This is directly from Oregon NFPA Code and was confirmed with the Oregon DOT today, and through the Oregon Fire Marshall's office.
The source for the information is the Oregon DOT and you can call them toll free at 1-888-ASK-ODOT to confirm for yourselves.
Here is a reprint from the email I received from the Oregon DOT supervisor:
"All ignition sources must be extinguished while fueling the vehicle, however
there is no prohibition against having a lit reefer while in transit."
Which is what we have been proposing here the whole time. The facts. Whatever your choice, extinguish all open sources of ignition before fueling, especially at islands with gasoline.
The above is a synopsis of information from authoritative sources, which are listed below.
My summaries of the data are these:
1. Running with the propane valves on could increase the risk of the propane igniting during a travel accident, but that risk is slight, and in the "catastrophic" scenarios listed, almost equal for valves off as valves on. If a rollover or severe collision occurred, not only could the gas lines rupture, but the tank and the lines at the tank could also, not to mention the heat from a fire. Conclusion: Running with the propane on is OK, from the experts. Risk increase slight, and doing it or not is a personal choice.
2. That the reefer and other appliances are indeed open flames and could ignite the gasoline vapors. And, since it is against the law to have any open flame, they must be turned off before refueling. The law does not state that there are exceptions for people that disagree, or know that gasoline vapors are heavier than air. As in all cases, some will disregard, and maybe even get caught, perhaps even be the one case we finally hear about. That decision is the same as drinking and driving. If caught, not much room to complain. Turn em off when refueling.
3. That most people are unaware of the real hazards for ignition of gasoline vapors, which are more than likely to have been responsible for any ignitions they have heard about or seen. These include hot brakes, catalytic converters, hot trannys and exhaust systems, that have not even been mentioned here, except briefly and accurately.
4. Since the original question was about a way to run the reefer from another source for safety, and since most folks will not discard a perfectly good reefer and spend $1500.00 or more for a three-way reefer, can it be done? Well, not from the inverter, but for all those that want the ultimate in safety, and not worry about shutting down the propane, in researching this answer I did find one possible solution. It is a switch that shuts down all propane when you switch off the ignition, and can be activated manually as well. Might be good or junk, I don't know, as I haven't tried one, nor can call them today, but just as a possible good compromise, worth looking into if only for an interesting compromise device for under 100 bucks.
If my conclusions are not what you wanted to hear, please read the below sources, and perhaps some of them will become clearer. For those that want to have no safety risks, driving multiple tons of rig down the road is also a bigger risk than not. However, for those interested in real fire and refueling safety, the below may add a few items to your refueling and travel checklists.
Article on other fire safety hazards you might not have considered
http://www.rvaa.com/articles/safe_fuel_pump.php3
Recommendation for turning off all propane appliances before fueling, did you know you need to fully open the propane valves for the excess flow valve of your tank/s to be operable?
http://www.rvaa.com/articles/propane2.php3
More fire safety for RVs and diesel Vs gasoline vapor points
http://www.wbcci.org/html/body_maintenance_tips.html
Maybe a 94 dollar solution?
http://www.lslproducts.com/FOPage.html
Gasoline vapor flash point and concentrations
http://www.chemistry.ohio-state.edu/ehs/handbook/flammabl/firetech.htm
Gasoline heavier than air and pools in low spots as well as running along the ground to ignition sources. Diesel fuel needs above 100 degrees to even produce vapor.
http://www.eig.com/ssus/ssu9706.html
©Derek Gore / RV Roadie 1998-2002
OK here is the last half with all the hard info, we'll see if it all goes:
Propane 101
So why all the tales of accidents and propane lines spewing? Actually it was true at one time, but times have changed along with the equipment.
Prior to 1977 the majority of connections between the regulators and the propane containers (pigtail) in RVs were made of copper tubing, and were wound in a coil to take up excess tubing creating the "pigtail" coil appearance, from which they got their name. Copper, being malleable, when strained to breaking will many times reduce the inside diameter of copper tubing, either from stretching, or bending. This can restrict the flow to the point that excess flow check valves, which reduces the pressure in the propane line in case of a break or leak in the line, might not detect excess gas flow. Thus full pressure flow could occur.
In 1977 the code was changed mandating that the connections, or pigtails, between the propane container and the regulator be made of rubber and then thermoplastic tubing, which would not change diameter in a mechanical "accident," and would activate the excess flow valves reliably when torn apart.
It is important at this point to clarify terms. A tank is not a cylinder and vice versa. A propane cylinder, is a removable container like used in 5th wheels, TTs, and BBQs. It is not permanently mounted. A Tank refers to a permanently mounted propane container, like in a motorhome. My fiver uses a cylinder; your motorhome uses a tank.
Here is the very important distinction. A tank has a permanent connection to the Motorhome's propane system, and has an extra fitting for it to be connected to at fill stations. The connection between the tank and the MH's propane system is never disconnected, except by a professional technician in most cases.
With removable cylinders, the owner, a non-professional disconnects the cylinders, whenever a fill is needed. Thus the new valve design, and extra safety features, to prevent accidents by the end user while removed, during filling, and during removal and reinstallation of the pigtail from/to the cylinder.
The MH tank is an ASME (American Society of Mechanical Engineers) design and does not require the new OPD (Overfill Protection Device) valves because it already has a check valve and overfill protection, albeit a different design than cylinders.
The trailer cylinders are DOT (Dept. Of Transportation) and have additional safeguards in the OPD and the pigtails because, as said earlier, they are disconnected completely on a regular basis by the user. These are in the 4-40 pound capacities. (Usually 30 pounds on fivers, and 20-pound cylinders on some TTs.)
Several changes have been mandated for DOT cylinders since the pigtail mandate. In 1998 it was mandated that hand screw on Acme nuts be used on the pigtails in place of the older POL (Named after the company that designed them, the Prest-O-Lite Company) connectors. The Acme nut is the part that screws into the cylinder, and takes the place of the older brass POL connectors that screwed into the cylinder valve with a reverse thread requiring a wrench to tighten and seal. The Acme nut is the new Green one that screws onto the OPD's outside thread, uses a normal right hand twist to tighten, and which also tightens to seal by hand only, not requiring a wrench. This is significant because two safety features are built into the Acme nut itself. First, Acme nuts contain a thermal bushing, which will melt in a fire, and prevent the escape of gasses from the tank. When it melts, it allows the new OPD spring activated shut off valve, which will only allow the flow of gas if a fitting is attached, to pop out and completely shut the flow down. They also have an improved excess flow check valve, compared to the valve in the old POL fitting-more on that later. The new Acme nut also adds an O-ring to further help prevent leaks at the connection.
With the advent of the requirement for all 4 to 40 pound DOT cylinders to change over to OPD valves in 2001, the safety features, in addition to the spring loaded shut off valve, have been further enhanced by insuring that the cylinders cannot be filled over 80% of capacity. This allows for vapor expansion, without building up excessive pressures from overfilling, and venting by way of the pressure relief valve. The old overfill device was a tube that connected to a bleeder valve that was observed during filling for liquid emission which indicated 80%. But if the person filling it did not shut off the propane it could overfill anyway. They used a scale for weight to fill also. Now DOT cylinders have an automatic stop fill valve built into the OPD valve.
The ASME Tanks for MHs did not require a change in valve on the tank because they already had sufficient check valves for excess flow, should there be a leak or sudden break in a line. And for more than 17 years, ASME tanks have used automatic stop fill valves to limit filling to 80%. Why so long before DOT cylinders? Because you can't remove them to verify the fill by weight! More importantly, since the connection between the tank and the MHs system is not broken, there is no need for the spring-loaded valve that the DOT cylinders had added with the new OPD valve. That valve prevents the gas from coming out of the cylinder unless there is a tight connection made from the POL or Acme nut depressing the valve. In other words, you can turn on the valve of the DOT cylinder, and no gas would come out unless there was a connector depressing the inside valve. Not necessary for MH connections that are never removed. Thus they were exempted from the OPD changeover rules.
Now to the new style excess flow check valve on the Acme nut that connects to the DOT cylinder's OPD valve. It is really a simple device. Inside the Acme nut, there is a ball bearing check valve that almost shuts off momentarily when full pressure is released by opening the cylinder valve. You should hear a click at that point. It doesn't shut down completely, as that would negate its ability to detect leaks and excess flow from a leak or major line break, and no gas could flow. It closes just enough to allow a bypass of gas that is very slight, about 10 cubic feet or less per hour (cf/hour) flow, as opposed to the max flow of 200 cf/hour. The bypass gas goes into the propane system, and if there are no leaks or broken pipes, it backs up and builds pressure in the gas lines in the RV. When it equalizes on both sides of the valve, the valve opens to allow full pressure up to about a max of 200 cf/hour at 100 psi. Then if you were standing there, you would hear a second click. Using all of your propane appliances should not exceed 100cf/hour. If there is a leak or a broken pipe, the pressure can't build up and the excess flow valve doesn't open up all the way thus limiting the gas output to about 10 cf/hour, or less. It is important to note that propane, like gasoline vapor, has narrow ignition requirements as far as air fuel mixture is concerned. So if you lit the leak (Don't try this at home!) it would show a flame at the leak in the air, but the concentration is too high in the line for it to ignite. In other words the fire can't run up the line to the cylinder or tank to ignite it. Want to see it in action? Watch your gas range work. Why doesn't the flame travel up the tube it comes out of to the burner? Same thing.
In fact, it is pretty difficult to actually blow up a propane tank or cylinder. What does occur when the pressure relief valve blows, which occurs at 312 psi in ASME tanks, and 375psi in DOT cylinders, is that the gas is vented and makes a lot of noise. I have had one overfilled tank vent and it really got my attention! But there was no flame or problem, as it dissipated outside very quickly. Should there be a fire or source of ignition when it vents, it won't explode either, instead it makes a torch. It does not ignite inside the gas line and run up it to the tank or cylinder and "explode." The only exception to that, is if it is punctured and ignited simultaneously, and then the same external ignition occurs only more rapidly. Or, if a leak is allowed to build up inside an enclosed space like our RVs, and then is ignited, there is one heck of a fire. But oxygen must be present in the right mixture within the ignition range, which is fairly narrow. The important thing is that with the garlic odorant (Ethyl Mercaptin) that is added, you would smell it in most cases of a small leak or break, with time to take appropriate action. It can be smelled by the human nose and your detectors at about 1/5th of the lower limit of combustibility or about 1/2 % propane to air. (Propane combusts at 2.15% gas to air to 9.6% gas to air - not above and not below.) Since most RVs have propane detectors near the floor now, they would alert long before the levels reach dangerous concentrations, if they are in good working order.
An interesting side note is that there are two types of pigtail connector designs to attach to a DOT Cylinder. Appropriately called Type 1 and Type 2. Type 1 is the Acme nut on the pigtail and the OPD valve on the cylinder. Type 2 is a quick-disconnect (QD,) which requires the type 2 OPD Valve that matches it on the DOT cylinder. What makes the Type 2 different from a plain quick disconnect, aside from needing the valve that matches on the cylinder, is that the Type 2 QD has all the safety items built into the pigtail end as the Type 1. This includes the excess flow check valve, and the thermal bushing.
For some reason, unknown to the industry, when the new code was formulated, RVs were left out of approval for the Type 2 valve and pigtail design for a quick disconnect at the cylinder. It is important to note that this part of the code limits only the main connection from cylinder to pigtail to regulator to a Type 1 in RVs. It is acceptable to use a plain propane approved QD for a tap in the line after the regulator in an RV, for example to run a line to a BBQ grill or Catalytic heater.
In summary, while some people have experienced propane leaks and breaks in the lines, there are safety devices that you never see, and most folks are unaware of, that stop or limit the flow in a mechanical leak, fire, or breakage. With today's built in safety systems, propane detectors, and the final back up, our own noses, it is much safer to use and live with propane than ever before. Should you have a sudden low-pressure condition in your RV appliances, it may be that the excess flow check valve has kicked in and is telling you that you have a leak or break in the line because it would not equalize. Of course to test that, all you have to do is turn the propane off at the cylinder or tank, wait a few minutes and turn it back on to full. If it then equalizes and runs OK, it just had a piece of trash or contaminant that temporarily hung up the excess flow check valve. That click you hear is the check valve operating when you first open the cylinder valve all the way. It is possible to turn it on so slowly that you won't hear it, but in most cases you will with the new equipment.
If you plan to run your fridge on the road, and still have the old design pigtails and valves on your DOT cylinders, you might want to consider changing over for maximum safety. (Yes, in some states like Louisiana, you can still fill non-OPD DOT cylinders.) Now that you know how the check valves work, you know that it is very important to keep the inside of the cylinder valve clean, to avoid getting grit and road grime from fouling them and possibly getting into the excess flow check valve when reconnecting. Looking at the valves that are exposed when transporting your DOT cylinders for refilling, it is very important to use the plastic plugs for the old style valves, and the caps supplied with the OPD valves on the cylinders when transporting them to and from the refueling station, to keep contaminants out of your safety devices. Also keep them upright at all times. This keeps them from possibly leaking liquid propane. I use an old plastic milk crate for transporting that keeps them upright and stable enough not to fall over with reasonable driving. The 20, 30, and 40-pound cylinders all fit in them snugly. For the taller tanks, an additional strap or bungee cord might be necessary.
None of these precautions or items will make it safe to have an open flame (propane appliance running) while refueling with any fuel, especially around gasoline vapors. Also remember that it is not necessary to turn off the propane before fueling, assuming your system is in good shape with no leaks, but to turn the propane appliances off electrically, by using the on/off switches inside. With the electronic igniters used today, should one go into auto ignite mode, either by design or malfunction, that could ignite gasoline fumes as well as the flame. If it makes you feel more secure to shut the propane valves off as well, that is fine. Just remember that the excess flow check valve insures no leaks, if the fridge was operating properly at the time of shut off.
I have not even gone into all of the propane and ignition safety devices that cut off the gas supply at the appliance for under and over pressures, and failure of ignition etc. Every one of them has those built in as well.
Also remember that all propane appliances generate CO, or Carbon monoxide. That is why they vent their combustion products to the outside, and draw their air for combustion from the outside. They must be sealed from the inside compartment or we would all have CO inside. Should there be a leak outside on the road, the outside vents would probably keep it from reaching any concentrations that would ignite. And the gas should not be able to get inside. If there is a leak inside, it should not be able to be ignited by the appliance flame outside. Any leak is dangerous and should be dealt with immediately by turning off the propane at the source and shutting down any electrical devices that might create a spark.
Understanding all of the above should make it plain why I said the risk in running a reefer on the road is not one of catastrophic danger. And why I say that there is only a slight increase in risk, which is negligible from a fire standpoint based on propane ignitions causing less than 1/10th of one percent of all fires. The chance of a fire from your engine leaking fuel, or an electrical fire, are magnitudes greater. But we start our engines and use our electrical systems.
Again, running the reefer on the road does not include while refueling. Choosing not to run your propane while in transit is a personal preference made with all the facts in hand. Not running it while in transit does add some extra measure of safety. Which is rational, and may make for peace of mind for many folks. But running it or not is not the big risk, or lack thereof, many make it out to be. Whatever decision makes your travel and comfort levels best, is the right one for you. Can mechanical devices fail? Of course! Which ones fail most often has been covered.
I would like to thank the kind folks at Marshall Gas Controls for spending so much of their valuable time with me to provide the history, facts, and figures used in this article. And for finally getting this RVr to understand how that excess flow valve and thermal bushing work.
Julie
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Mrs. Mik
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03/11/10 01:35pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Soap in St. Park Restooms
Because: Bar soap would be stolen by the jerks. Liquid soap, the truly 'entitled' would pump it from the built-in dispenser into their own bottles to steal it. The sickos would replace the liquid with oil, or something smelly. The _real_ sickos would replace it with acid or... uh... 'bodily fluids'.... :(
WOW! Where do YOU use public restrooms? NEVER, in my wildest dreams, would I think that someone would replace the soap with bodily fluids! Only someone who has had that happen to them would think of that . . .
Sorry for the horrific places you are apparently forced to stop at.
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Mrs. Mik
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03/10/10 09:28pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Finally...A great store bought egg! w/pic
I'm going to jump into this, as someone who has chickens, and state that I believe the color of the yolk has to do with the diet of the chicken. To get bright orange yolks like those in the original post, the chickens have a diet of much more than strictly chicken feed.
My chickens are given a mix of chicken feed, oyster shell (for calcium) and all kinds of people food, along with whatever they find outside. They're locked up at night to keep them safe, but we let them out during the day (except in the dead of winter or when it's raining or snowing), and they wander the yard at will looking for food. Yes, we even let them out when it's ten degrees, if the sun is shining.
Our chickens LOVE bread, popcorn, rice, noodles, etc. I even buy pasta just to cook for them because they love it so much!
The yolks from our chickens are BRIGHT orange.
One time, a couple years ago at a campground, I was preparing breakfast in my Dutch oven and had whipped up about a dozen eggs to use in my Mountain Man breakfast. Someone asked me what the "orange stuff" was in the dish on the picnic table. I think they thought it was melted cheese or orange juice or something as they were quite confused when I told them those were my eggs! :B
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Mrs. Mik
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03/08/10 09:32pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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RE: Repeat questions
Imagine how rough it is for someone who is trying to understand a new RV.
I'm sure they're not "board," and I'm betting you aren't, either, unless you feel like a 2x4 or 4x6, or maybe, a funky size, like 4x12? :B
On the one hand, you may actually be bored, but rather than complaining about all the repeat questions helping a newbie might relieve some of that boredom.
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Mrs. Mik
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03/03/10 09:29pm |
Around the Campfire
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