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Date Posted |
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RE: Power Steering Fluid
dexIII is dexron 3 dexron IV or dexron 4 is just upgrade from dexron3. Check back of dex4 bottle I think it says it OK to in place of DEXII OR DEXIII
Yepper!
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Sully2
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03/18/10 03:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Replacing Clearance Lights
The red & amber clearance lights on my 15 year old Winnebago are all cracked and discolored and are unfortunately no longer available. Am replacing with the new style winnebago lights which are much smaller. The older lights had a 3/8" thick pad and there was NEVER a water leakage problem even though the hole in the roof for the wires had no other method of sealant. The newer lights have a barely 1/8" thick pad. What is the experience as far as water leakage with such a thin pad ? Is the hole in the roof for the wires sealed with something else ? And what do I repair the left over mounting screw hole in the fiberglass roof with ? Older lights the mounting screws were 6" apart. The new lights are only 4" long. Thanks for any help !
As suggested...look around some. Winnebago didnt make those lights...they bought them from "..??.."....now all you have to do is find that company. You MIGHT have to remove one and go to your local RV dealer and sort thru their catalogs to find it..if you cant find it online. They are "out there" but might be tough to locate easily.
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Sully2
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03/18/10 11:17am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: brake fluid and
power steering fluid, do they go bad in storage? in other words i bought a container of both about 4 years ago to have to top off if need be. should they still be good to use or better off buying new?
If they have been opened ONCE...and have been siting around for 4 years....Pitch'em.
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Sully2
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03/18/10 11:14am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: new snake oil or for real?
First off...why bother? Just convert anything to DIESEL! More BTU's per gallon....tech is already here to do it...so why would GM or anyone else spend 50 cents on some "fazmagorical" injection system..etc...etc. Diesel even costs less to refine.
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Sully2
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03/18/10 09:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: new snake oil or for real?
Did you know that the military has been using engines that will run on almost anything combustible for years. Diesel, gas(mogas),oil, wine, etc. Check out the old Duce and a halfs (2 1/2 ton trucks) from WWII to Vietnam.
"Multi Fuelers". I drove a 5 tonner in the late 60's and early 70's. Diesel; gasoline; salad oil; ...if it could burn it would run.
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Sully2
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03/18/10 09:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Power Steering Fluid
Dexron III in mine...and when I change it this year Dexron IV will go in. No "motor oil" for me!!!!:E
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Sully2
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03/18/10 09:45am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is there a heat consideration with bed over engine?
hello,
We have narrowed down our search to a couple units. One on our short list is a Itasca Meridian/Winnie Journey 36G. If you are not familiar with this floorplan, the bedroom has the bed set up with the headboard against the rear wall instead of many that have the headboard in a side slide.
This strikes me as reducing storage a bit. I've been debating whether that matters to us. Also, last night I started thinking that since this configuration has the bed directly over the diesel, it seems that the heat would transfer into the sleeping arrangment more. There must be a good amoount of heat coming off of the engine after a long drive and I wonder sleeping after driving could become uncomfortably warm.
Is this a fair assessment?
ONE TIME...after almost 10 hrs driving in 100 deg heat across TX..was the bed "warm enough" that neither wanted to go back and lay down....but with the rear AC on for about 1 hr....it was no problem then. Of course during that 1 hr I was reclining with a cold drink and the wife was fixing supper...so it was a "no biggie".
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Sully2
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03/18/10 09:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New Tires @ 6 Years?
I bought 6 new Goodyear RV670s in 2004. They now have about 40,000 miles on them. Had some rotation done a couple of years ago as one of the steer tires got a little worn as the front end needs alignment.
We are gonna take a long trip this summer and while most of the tires look great (excellent tread and no sidewall cracks can be found) I am considering replacing all of them "just in case."
Spending the money is not the problem, safety is but I also do not want to go the new route if it is not necessary or advisable.
Obviously, I will get the front end aligned with the new tires installed.
Any thoughts, suggestions or ???
TIA
Depending on HOW the tires have been taken care of...and HOW long this trip might be...I'd say run them this year and change tire next spring prior to any trips.
As far as some claim about all the great features of a TPMS..well..save your $$. You've got a MINIMUM of 6 years now with any..and never had a problem...so why think all of a sudden so called problems are going to crop up.
I fell for all the trip words..etc..about TPMS.....wished I'd have saved the $250 now
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Sully2
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03/17/10 08:36am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: High Mileage RV - Afraid to go long distance
I have a 97 Pace Arrow Vision with the 454 engine and overdrive tranny. It has 101k miles, but the engine purrs like a kitten, does not leak or burn oil and runs cool, tranny shifts fine. It seems just as mechanically sound as an RV with 50k miles. I want to go on a extended family vacation this summer which will include the eastern
Rocky Mountains and Black Hills of South Dakota. This will be 2400 mile round trip from central Texas. The problem is that I am terrified of having a major mechanical failure with that many miles and being a long distance from home. This really defeats the purpose of owning an RV in the first place. All systems are a go and I do have roadside assistance (includes towing) with Progressive Insurance which gives me some peace of mind. I am worried about the tires and the tranny the most for failures. The engine is fine. Also, my tires are 2003 Michellins, with hardly any wear, but they are 7 years old. The rear ones have some very minor hairline sidewall cracks. I have just done a complete brake system overhaul and replaced and repacked all the front and tag axle wheel bearings (except rear dually wheel bearings as that looked too complicated). Any Advice you guys could give?
Put on NEW tires....make sure the engine is tuned up ( including new filters..etc) and let it "Rip...Van Winkle".....:)
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Sully2
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03/17/10 08:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Oil Filters on Cummins Engines
leaks are caused by faulty installer. i have used both with no leaks.
I agree 100%
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Sully2
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03/16/10 04:24pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Price for a DP Oil Change
Wal-Mart 15W-40 Rotella alone cost me for 17 qt. $50.25.:S
Your math is either waaaay off, or your being ripped!
That same amount of Shell Rotella T 15W-40 costs me $30.60 at my Walmart.
Rot-T at MY local Wally Mart (15W-40) is $11.xx a gallon! 16 qts ( 4 gal) would be $44.xx and then you need extra qts...OR...just buy 5 gallon at $55.xx dollars..PLUS TAX
At YOUR PRICES....your paying $7.20 a gallon??????....:R:R
Never said I was "buying it by the gallon." :S
Based on exactly what the guy is paying for 17 qts. I am paying almost $20.00 less for the same amount - 17 qts. of Shell Rotella T - some get math challenged when it comes to buying/pricing oil.......
Ahhh! I see how it runs now. Yes some of us are "math challenged" ..and some of us like to play "word games" to make ourselves look smart. Buying Rot by the 55 gallon drum ( or how ever many gallons are actually IN a drum...(50-55..??) you can get it for approx $5 a gallon.
Thats all I need...a 50 gallon drum of oil sitting in my garage for 10 years..until I use it all up in oil changes
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Sully2
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03/15/10 07:24am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: PROPANE
Is there a site where propane dealers that can fill 35' plus motorhomes available? First week of Feb I drove several hundred miles on I 65 w/o a station open or operating.
A book or web site would be very helpful.
Also, why doesn't some enterprising individual bring propane to camp areas ie: state parks etc.? Repair services come to parks and repair most anything from faucets to black water tanks.
No one would want to pay the cost of "delivered" propane. I fill at either a commercial CG or at an RV dealer.
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Sully2
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03/14/10 08:56am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Price for a DP Oil Change
Wal-Mart 15W-40 Rotella alone cost me for 17 qt. $50.25.:S
Your math is either waaaay off, or your being ripped!
That same amount of Shell Rotella T 15W-40 costs me $30.60 at my Walmart.
Rot-T at MY local Wally Mart (15W-40) is $11.xx a gallon! 16 qts ( 4 gal) would be $44.xx and then you need extra qts...OR...just buy 5 gallon at $55.xx dollars..PLUS TAX
At YOUR PRICES....your paying $7.20 a gallon??????....:R
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Sully2
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03/14/10 08:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Changing a tire on a diesel pusher
It's quite clear you've had a bad experience... I sympathize. I think your reaction is a bit dramatic? It's the first I've heard of a "cheap bald chinese trailer tire" showing up. :)
JMO.
I think the term is OVER reaction...unless you consider killing flys with a nuclear bomb as "even Steven".
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Sully2
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03/13/10 07:20pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Changing a tire on a diesel pusher
For those who are prepared to change a flat, using a mounted or unmounted spare, GOOD FOR YOU! For us the Coach Net card is all we carry. With all the comforts of home on board, we can wait. The space we save by no longer carrying a spare carries stuff that actually improves our RVing experience. Each to their own. Oh, I used to be able to do a fire hydrant in 18 seconds, but I now leave the fire fighting to the professionals.
I hope you stay very close to home or you have either a common tire size or an unlimited bank account. If not, you'll change your tune after discovering that the guy from Ben Dover's Tire Service is demanding $700 for the only tire in your size in the county (a bald Chinese trailer tire with a few gashes in it), plus another $300 if you actually need him to install it. That will be cash only, of course! Call some small-town tire shops...see how long they need to get your size tire. You may be very surprised.
I think you are EXTREMELY prone to OVER exaggerate! Im willing to lay out cold hard cash that for every RVer that HAS fallen into the exact same scenario you describe above that there are 10,000 that HAVENT....kinda small percentage if you ask me.
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Sully2
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03/13/10 07:19pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: opinions on using Classic Coachworks
As you found out they are VERY EXPENSIVE. Last year I called them to get an idea of cost to rework my overhead head banger TV cabinet to reduce it back for an LCD installation. I just wanted the cabinet cut back 6-8" and they said I was looking at $3000-$4000 for a new TV cabinet not including the LCD TV. They figured 30-40 hours labor to remove the old one, build a new shallower cabinet and stain it to match. They quoted me hourly labor rate of $125. There are also some places in and around Elkhart, Indiana that will do renovations at more reasonable costs. Do a search for RV renovations and check for referrals. Before someone asks if I had it done, well I tell my guests "watch your head coming in":B
30 to 40 hours???that must include 30 hours of watching TV.
Think so huh?
I had a prof cabinet maker do mine and he charged me $1250...and I told him if it didnt match PERFECTLY...he could keep it. He worked every afternoon except for 2 for 3 weeks on it. It required MANY trips to the house here ( coach stayed in my driveway) and LOTS of fitting and modifications to get it to work...switching from a 20 tube TV to a 26" flat panel...and included many "trap doors" to allow access to the new TV's REAR connections so that I dont have to remove the whole TV to add in even a digital cam if I wish
It aint all a "cut and paste" job at all
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Sully2
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03/12/10 08:49am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Changing a tire on a diesel pusher
if it is a outside dual put 2x6 in front or rear of inside dual and drive up on it
This will work for putting chains on.
And depending on the ACTUAL weight on that axle...you'll be overloading the remaining tire....just like driving with that tire off...and thats a No-No..!
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Sully2
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03/12/10 08:43am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Changing a tire on a diesel pusher
For all the naysayers and such..last year I had a flat ( tire had even come off the rim) when I came out of winter hibernation....so I called CoachNet and they sent a "local" onroad tire service ( flat was right in my driveway)
When he arrived he used 1 20 ton hyd jack with a block under it BEHIND the axle and another 10 ton hyd jack in FRONT of the axle to lift it.
(When you jack the axle you are only driving the tire further up into the wheel well...and you need clearance above the tire to get it off)
Using a 3/4" impact with a hose that was so large in diameter I didnt even know they made such a creature..??...at 130 PSI. He spun the lugs right off. Having jacked the rig up enough to get "about 3/4" clearance under it...he slide it off ( didnt actually PICK UP anything) and "we" got the bead re-seated. To make sure the inner tire was on tight...he changed sockets to a jumbo deep one and gave them a shot also.
With the repaired tire leaning against the coach he "duck walked" the tire real close and then using a 5 ft spoon bar he "lifted" the tire enough to get it back onto the studs....whence he changed back to his "short" deep socket and tightened the lug nuts down.
It doesnt matter how many CFM your compressor will put out ( on board or stand alone) its how much air ( both pressure and volume) your AIR HOSE will deliver when using a 3/4 inch drive impact. 200 PSI and a 1/4 inch hose isnt going to do diddle squat for you.
The compressor in the back of his truck was an Ingersoll Rand that was a 2 stage model that can put out 175 psi...with a gasoline engine on it...it was as long as his truck was WIDE. Im talking BIG!
Without the proper tools...your kidding yourself..even if you are capable of carrying a large spare with you...which I cant.
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Sully2
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03/12/10 08:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Changing a tire on a diesel pusher
if it is a outside dual put 2x6 in front or rear of inside dual and drive up on itSo what holds it all together when the lug nuts are removed? The inside duel is now loose too.
No its not! Only half of the lug nuts hold the OUTSIDE wheel on....the others are held on by long..??.."studs"..?? that you need a DEEP socket to loosen or tighten.
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Sully2
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03/12/10 08:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dexron lll Transmission Fluid
Does anyone know a technical reason if Allison is OK with Dexron III then why Dexron VI has been black listed by them?
Clearly if I had an Allison I would use what they state to us but the questioning side of me wonders if it is not about 98% due to financial reasons to help recover the cost to have Castrol (?) develop it and the associated testing cost.
If Dexron VI works fine in any GM transmisson on the road today it just strains the logic if Dexron III is OK for Allison why Dexron VI is not better than Dexron III in an Allison.
Personally..I dont know if Allison says to NOT use Dexron VI in their transmissions..???
All I alluded to was that while Dexron IV CAN be used ANYWHERE (meaning every application)that Dexron III was used.....that Dexron VI CANT be used everywhere Dexron III was used.
Allison DOES say to use Transynd OR any of the TS295 approved fluids in their transmissions....whether Dexron VI is TS 295 approved...I have no idea.
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Sully2
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03/11/10 10:33am |
Class A Motorhomes
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