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Forum
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RE: Towing Question!!??!!
I've been where you're at, with the salesman telling me "You can tow it, no problem".
Another rule of thumb (you may find it in several posts) is TT weight should not exceed 80 - 85 percent of tow capacity.
I was towing the TT in my sig with a Nissan Titan. Towing capacity was 9500 and payload was 1650. TT hitch weight (advertised at 950) was actually 1075 and GVW 8100. Ended up having to weigh everything in the truck and trailer, to find out, even with the GVW of the trailer being under my max towing capacity (I was at 85 percent), I was over weight on payload. I was over on TV wheel base vs TT length. Didn't take very many unpleasant towing experiences to start looking for a bigger truck.
Besides tow capacity vs trailer weight, you also need to look at tow vehicle wheel base length vs trailer length, and tow vehicle payload capacity vs actual hitch weight (751 sounds severely under estimated for a GVW of 10,400) + weight of WD hitch itself + passenger weight + any cargo that may end up in the truck. Normally, hitch weight is 10 - 15 percent of GVW. That would put your hitch weight in 1000 lb (plus) area.
Your TT is heavier than mine. I don't think a 1500 Ram will be up to the task. You will still be at (or above) max towing capacity and possibly over on payload. If you have to upgrade, don't look for anything marginal in capacities.
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handye9
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11/25/09 07:59am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Need Structural Repair Advice
Hard to say without seeing how serious the damage is, but, here are some things that may help.
Here's a link to a thread about replacing underbelly material.
Your framework probably is wood.
You may not need to remove the skin. Find and seal the leak. As far as lag bolts pulling out, you may be able to use an oil can to squirt some wood hardener (available at Home Depot) into the holes. Let the wood hardener set up (overnight). Then cut pieces of wood dowel (same size as screw holes), cover them in carpenters glue and tap them into the holes. Wipe excess glue with wet towel. Let that dry overnight. Drill pilot holes in the dowels (about half the size of the screws) and drive new screws.
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handye9
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11/01/09 06:47pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Best place to mount backup camera
Mount it high, pointed downward to your liking, and preferably with a sun shade installed.
When I first installed mine, it was just above my spare tire and pointed pretty much straight out. I didn't have much trouble with road spray, but, I had major problems with sunlight or headlights. Early morning or late afternoon, if the sun was behind me, the monitor was nothing but a glare. Same problem at night with vehicles coming up from behind.
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handye9
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10/31/09 09:14am |
Technology Corner
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RE: United States Map
For those of you who have the US map in your signature; 1st how do you do that and 2nd do you fill in the state if you have actually slept overnight in that state or do you color it in if you have passed thru?
Here's a link to get the map. Once you have downloaded and set it up the way you want it, go to "My Forums" at top of the page. In My Forums, click on preferences. That is where you can put in links to photo hosting sites and add a signature photo.
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handye9
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10/28/09 07:00am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: United States Map
It's your map. Do what ever you please.
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handye9
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10/28/09 06:52am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Broken window
Take very accurate measuremen then check eBay and do a web search on RV salvage.
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handye9
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10/25/09 08:14pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: TT shopping and winter RVing
You need to be careful with the heated underbelly requirement. Reason being, different manufacturers have different descriptions as to what is a heated underbelly.
Some have only an enclosed underbelly and ambient heat leaking through the floor, is considered a heated underbelly.
Some run the heating duct work through the enclosed underbelly and ambient heat from duct work is considered heated underbelly.
Some have heat ducts running through the enclosed underbelly along with heated air actually blowing into the underbelly and consider this heated underbelly.
Some have heating duckwork running through the enclosed underbelly and electric heating pads attached to the holding tanks and drain pipes.
To some degree, they are all heated and enclosed underbelly. Some provide much more protection than others.
Question you need to ask is how the underbelly is heated.
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handye9
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10/22/09 06:29pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 27' aerolite/ F250 4X4
just got my new F250 4X4.(had a F150 4X4) I have a thor aerolite 27'. went to local dealer to pickup some stuff, ask service dept. about setting up new truck. he said all I had to do was set ball hight and with the F250 I would not need to use the load bars. what yall think? load bars or not.
Check out this link. Then refer to your F250 owners manual. WDH requirement depends on trailer tongue weight, trailer gross weight, and on truck configuration.
From 08 F250 manual:
For all single rear wheel pickups and 5.4L dually's, the maximum tow weights without WDH are 600 lbs tongue and 6000 lb gross trailer weight.
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handye9
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10/22/09 07:53am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Integrated Brake Controller F250
My TT is pretty much the same size and weight as yours. I have the controller set at 6.5. At 7 or above, my trailer wheels will lock up and skid on wet pavement. You don't want them to lock up. Yours could be anywhere from 6 - 8. Due to wear and adjusting, trailer braking power will vary a little bit.
Quote from 08 F250 owners manual:
"In traffic free environment, tow the trailer on a dry, level surface at a speed of 20 - 25 MPH and squeeze the manual control lever completely.
If trailer wheels lock up (indicated by squealing tires), reduce the GAIN setting;if trailer wheels turn freely, increase the GAIN. Repeat these steps until GAIN setting is just below trailer wheel lock up. If towing a heavier trailer, trailer wheel lock up may not be attainable even with maximum GAIN"
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handye9
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10/22/09 06:52am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 12 volt tank heaters
I too, would be leary of running on battery power for any length of time. Be prepared to run your generator much longer. Possibly 24 hours per day.
You also need to factor in amp draw for lights, furnace, CO2 detector, refrigerator, any 12 volt appliances, and pipe / elbow heaters.
Heated tanks are useless if your dump lines are frozen. I've done the hair dryer thing myself, and, I have pipe / elbow heaters. They just can't keep up in minus 30 degree windchill.
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handye9
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10/21/09 10:33am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Use of a desiccant over the winter
I would not spend any money on desicant. Colder weather brings drier air.
If you were going to have problems with humidity, you would have them in the summer.
Personnal experience with desicant dryers in a gun safe, is, winter months, they don't need to be dried out, summer months, they need to be dried every two to three weeks. You would need a forklift to load enough desicant to make any difference in a travel trailer. SAVE YOUR MONEY, DON'T DO IT
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handye9
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10/04/09 06:14pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Best portable ladder fro travel trailer
I carry one like this.
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handye9
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10/03/09 09:01am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Forest River Qaultiy?
First TT was a Gulfstream, second Starcraft, and third is a Flagstaff. None of them went back for warranty work. I think the fit,finish, and quality was pretty much the same with all three.
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handye9
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09/20/09 10:01pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Now that I own a TT...
Check owners manual for wheel bearing maintenance. If the TT is used, find out how many years/miles since bearing were repacked.
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handye9
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09/01/09 05:46pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Is 35' too long and other bunkhouse ramblings
Hi everyone, thanks for all the info. It was nice to see this thread come back up.
We are looking at TTs instead of 5ers due to a couple of things: use of truck bed, overall height, cost of hitch (my Rease DC has 1200# bars, so I am OK with keeping that if we stay with a TT.)
It looks like almost all quad bunkhouse models start at 33 feet minimum. We have 3 kids and would like a 4th bunk for the occasional guest. I'd actually prefere 3 bunks and a trundle or couch in the bunkhouse, but it seems that this layout starts at 35 feet long.
So, we continue to think this through. We love dry camping at state parks as well as staying at the RV resort type places too. I'm hoping that 33 feet bumper to coupling won't be too long. As it stands now, our favorite state park, Pawtuckaway in NH, has only 2 lake front sites that I KNOW I can easily get into with my 29 footer.
Thanks,
Drew
Maybe this floorplan will work for you. Outback 301BQ
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handye9
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08/28/09 07:20am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Too many keys
If you're a DIY type person. Replacing the locks, is probably the cheapest route. Here's a link to an eBay listing for a pair of keyed alike paddle locks.
You can get keyed alike deadbolts at any hardware or big box store.
Total material cost would probably be less than one hour labor for a locksmith, and, it would get you down to two keys that would open both doors.
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handye9
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08/28/09 07:06am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Newbie looking for suggestions on first travel trailer...
Here are some links to manufacturer web sites. You can visit thses to look at floor plans.
Keystone
Forest River
Starcraft
Jayco
Gulfstream
Crossroads
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handye9
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08/28/09 06:48am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Door lock question
When you calculate material and labor for a locksmith, it would probably be cheaper to go to an RV supply or on eBay and just buy new door locks. There are several sellers on eBay, who sell replacement locks for around 30.00. There are some who will sell you multiple locks that are keyed alike.
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handye9
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08/27/09 04:05pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Shower wall fasteners
Take a look in the lumber (paneling) section at Home Depot. They carry a couple different colors of FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) 4X8 panels. In the same general area, they have the color coordinated plastic rivets.
I've also seen them in the paint section (also near the paneling) at Menards. Lowes may have them, too. Hard telling what department. Could be in hardware, paint, lumber, or plumbing.
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handye9
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08/26/09 08:18am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Ford Gasser Question
I've searched forum, but not really found the answer I was hoping to find. I'm looking for a newer truck and found a 2007 F350 with 3.73 rear end and 5.4 engine crew cab. Tow specs says it can tow 8500 lb. Is this a real world number or "I wish" type of weight. My trailer is about 7500 when loaded. Can it tow in overdrive or just forget you have it when towing? Or should I be looking at a V-10? Thanks.
Post moved from TT Forum to Tow Vehicle Forum
Moderator - TT Forum
Have an 08 F250. Same motor with 4.10 rear end. Tow rating is 11,000. I wouldn't want to tow that. I'm not particularly pleased with the power, when towing my 7500 lb TT. It gets the job done, but, no overdrive towing.
Had an 06 Nissan Titan that had more power, but, I was over payload weight.
The F250 is a much more stable platform (weight wise), but, not near as much fun to drive. It was like trading a corvette for a greyhound bus.
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handye9
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08/21/09 09:26pm |
Tow Vehicles
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