JBarca
Dublin, Ohio, USA
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If you have grade 8, 1/2-20 studs, the max is generally 120 ft # on dry threads. More that then the studs can end up in issues over time.
I have steel wheels and I dial in 105 ft # on my grade 8, 1/2 -20 threads. 6 lug.
Key is, check them after puttting a wheel on. like 30 to 50 miles then another 30 to 50 and by the 3rd time they stop moving. Brand new painted rims may be the worst for losseneing up until the paint wear out of the bevel.
Hope this helps
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
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(I wish we where camping!)
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chrisser
Cleveland OH
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Joined: 05/05/2009
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JBarca wrote:If you have grade 8, 1/2-20 studs, the max is generally 120 ft # on dry threads. More that then the studs can end up in issues over time.
I have steel wheels and I dial in 105 ft # on my grade 8, 1/2 -20 threads. 6 lug.
Key is, check them after puttting a wheel on. like 30 to 50 miles then another 30 to 50 and by the 3rd time they stop moving. Brand new painted rims may be the worst for losseneing up until the paint wear out of the bevel.
Hope this helps
John
Thanks for that tip - I just bought some new steel painted wheels and I'll be sure to keep an eye on the torque once I get them mounted up.
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kschitoskey
Albuquerque, NM
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I agree with JBarca - follow the instructions that came with your trailer. I re-torqued my new wheels at 10, 25, then 50 miles. Each time they needed a little more tightening. After the 3rd time though everything stayed at 120#s. I've been a gear head a long time and never did such things on my vehicles. Glad I read the instructions.
On a side note - you'd be surprised how many people have trailer / departing wheel stories!
07 Keystone Cougar 289BHS - 16" Commercial TAs, Trailair Equa-flex, Steady Fast
06 Dodge 3/4 T Mega Cab 5.9 ISB - Pacbrake air bags, B&W Companion
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lotto38
Northwest Ohio
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twobuckmark wrote:What do you torque lug nuts to on 15" TT Wheels
I put on some new tires last week,(Goodyear Marathons 205/75/R15 made in USA) and the shop torqued to 120.
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Sellador
Virginia
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Joined: 05/01/2009
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Along the same general topic, the instructions for the trailer say to torque the wheels every time you drive it. I took that to mean at the start of each trip, but it occured to me while traveling this week that they may have meant that literally. I'm curious what people here do. Do you torque your wheels every day on a trip or just at the beginning? (Obviously, there is some length of trip beyond which this question would be meaningless, but I'm talking about traveling for a week or so.)
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Kevin from K
Perry Ks
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Not real confident of torquing often any more. Lost a rear wheel on our 3 month old 5er this weekend. Torqued the lugs to 120 fp right before I left the house. Made it 20 miles before the wheel came off on the on ramp to the highway. 5 of the 6 studs were mostly stripped, the 6 sheared off. Did a considerable amount of damage to the driverside rear of the camper. Was not fun changing out the drum and putting the spare on by the side of the road in rush hour.
These were aluminum wheels so I was really concerned about over-torquing them. I've been pulling trailers, boat, camper etc. with steel wheels for many years. Never torqued any of them. Just tightened them up snug like a car tire. Never once had a problem.
I might trade these aluminum wheels out for some good old steel painted wheels.
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DocP
Brunswick, Ohio
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Sellador wrote:Along the same general topic, the instructions for the trailer say to torque the wheels every time you drive it. I took that to mean at the start of each trip, but it occured to me while traveling this week that they may have meant that literally. I'm curious what people here do. Do you torque your wheels every day on a trip or just at the beginning? (Obviously, there is some length of trip beyond which this question would be meaningless, but I'm talking about traveling for a week or so.)
I check the torque (and tire pressure) every time I leave for a trip, and every time I'm pulling out of a campground. It's just part of the routine I follow and doesn't really take that much time.
Here is the procedure Keystone provided with my TT (I have aluminum rims):
Pre-Trip Procedure:
1. Set your torque wrench to 110-120 ft/lbs (140-150 ft/lbs for the Cambridge).
2. Begin with the appropriate bolt for your wheel (12 o’clock position for 8 and 6 hole wheels and 2 o’clock position for 5 hole wheels) and apply torque to all lug nuts following the star pattern indicated.
3. Complete the procedure on each wheel. Before moving to each new wheel, be sure to verify your preset torque wrench value.
WARNING: UNDER OR OVER-TORQUE OF WHEEL LUG NUTS CAN CAUSE
THE WHEEL TO SEPARATE FROM THE AXLE AND COULD LEAD TO PROPERTY
DAMAGE, SERIOUS INJURY OR LOSS OF LIFE.
2008 Keystone Freedom Lite 281RL
1998 Breckenridge Park Model
2004 Chevy Avalanche, 5.3L, 3.73:1, 4X4,
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JJBIRISH
Butler, PA, USA
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Kevin from K wrote:Not real confident of torquing often any more. Lost a rear wheel on our 3 month old 5er this weekend. Torqued the lugs to 120 fp right before I left the house. Made it 20 miles before the wheel came off on the on ramp to the highway. 5 of the 6 studs were mostly stripped, the 6 sheared off. Did a considerable amount of damage to the driverside rear of the camper. Was not fun changing out the drum and putting the spare on by the side of the road in rush hour.
These were aluminum wheels so I was really concerned about over-torquing them. I've been pulling trailers, boat, camper etc. with steel wheels for many years. Never torqued any of them. Just tightened them up snug like a car tire. Never once had a problem.
I might trade these aluminum wheels out for some good old steel painted wheels.
While you had this incident I in no way believe this happened with a properly toured wheel in 20 miles of travel… either the studs were already damaged, or the wheel was over torque, or the wrong lognuts were used, or maybe wheels not made for trailer use were on it… there has to be more to the story than that…
I don’t think people need to sit around worrying about wheels falling off when torque right with steel or aluminum wheels…
Love my mass produced, entry level, built by Lazy American Workers, Hornet
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aquarious
Marion Indiana
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Hello everyone, on my 15" steel wheels I torque them to 85# to 90#. I have not had them to come loose in 3 seasons of camping. I tow a 2007 Starcraft 2700 BH with a loaded weight of about 5500#. I can't remember off hand where I got those torque numbers but they work for me. I check them before I leave the driveway and before I leave the campground every time. nuff said
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JJBIRISH
Butler, PA, USA
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aquarious wrote:Hello everyone, on my 15" steel wheels I torque them to 85# to 90#. I have not had them to come loose in 3 seasons of camping. I tow a 2007 Starcraft 2700 BH with a loaded weight of about 5500#. I can't remember off hand where I got those torque numbers but they work for me. I check them before I leave the driveway and before I leave the campground every time. nuff said
it is never nuff said if it is incomplete or inaccurate... the fact is there are different recommendations for different trailers...
Wheel lug nut torque is usually much higher than that specified for passenger car wheels. Check your particular trailer's recommended specifications. Most are in the 90-95 ft.-lb. range and some much higher...
EXAMPLE: your Starcraft trailer recommends 90 to 120 FPT
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