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 > Jayco Seneca Changes (Duramax 6.6 Diesel)

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bbarbee

Glendale, AZ

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Posted: 08/19/09 03:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I added Jayco Seneca because I am not sure it is the same as others.

I would like to change the way the lights work; i.e., the
courtesy lights (thank people for signaling clear) do not work
unless the lights are on and I am unable to flash brights unless
lights are on. I am considering changing this somehow. Does
anyone have comments on this?

Also, I am wondering if anyone has hardwired the 50A cord into
the motorhome. The very last left side bay now holds my cord,
so if I could hardwire from there, I could put in a spooler to
roll the cord in and out.

Let me have it pro or con.


Bob and Becky Barbee
2008 Seneca 34SS
2006 Colorado Crew Cab 4x4

paulin

No. CA

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Posted: 08/19/09 06:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello bbarbee,

We also have the 34SS Seneca and have considered hard wiring the 50A shore power cord as we don't like wrestling that big cord. For some reason, ours is VERY stiff and will not coil without kinks.

It appears a suitable size hole could be drilled down thru the bedroom closet floor just far enough towards the rear of the MH to exit underneath just aft of the generator. Then a hole could be cut thru the sidewall of the rear compartment. The cord would then be fished from the rear compartment thru the holes and connect to the transfer switch in the closet. Of course the existing wiring needs to be removed from the transfer switch.

In our case, we would probably leave only a short portion of cord inside the rear compartment with the male cord cap still attached and use a 50A extension cord to continue to the campground electrical box. This would enable adding a surge protector or Autoformer type device if desired and they would be out of sight and locked inside the rear compartment.

We have not considered the light flashing you mentioned in your post.

Regards,
P & L


Paul & Linda
2007 Jayco Seneca HD 34SS Duramax
2005 Saturn VUE
"Monty", "Maggie" & "Murphy" the mighty Shih Tzus
FMCA #F375077



Ran

Wisconsin

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Posted: 08/20/09 04:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I hear you guys regarding the 50a power cord. I have considered getting a new one....one that is more flexible in cold weather. This one is not 'too' bad when its plenty warm out, but in the winter its nearly impossible to bend. Our last motorhome (a 40' Phaeton DP) had a 50a hardwired cord that was MUCH easier to coil in cold temps.


Randy & Sue
2006 Jayco Seneca 35 GS
All Lower 48 visited

bbarbee

Glendale, AZ

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Posted: 08/20/09 09:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Paul and Randy,

Looks like Paul has given this some serious thought. As Randy said,
if it is warm out the cord rolls pretty easily but a little cool and
the cord is almost impossible to roll up. Since nothing else is in
that bay, I usually just stuff it in with no regard to rolling it up.

Personally, I am more interested in my lights situation at this time.
Normally what I do is turn the lights on, then flash brights for
a signal and then turn lights off. I sure sould like to make it more
fluid than that.

Rich Panganiban

Southern California, USA

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Joined: 01/08/2005

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Posted: 08/20/09 10:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Robert, I have a Jayco Greyhawk on the Kodiak chassis and have thought about how to make the headlight/running lights easier to toggle on and off. Here's what I was thinking:

1. Disconnect the daytime running lights so it's easier for passing trucks to see the on & off action of the headlights. Currently I'm using the high-beams assuming I remembered to move the dial to the headlight "on" position.

2. My coach has a side marker "interrupt" switch on the dash below the radio in the cab. It is almost perfect except it's only connected to the yellow running lights on the side of the house. I would love to figure out how to also wire all the running lights on the back of the house, specifically, the three marker lights that run accross the top of the rear cap of the house.

I am planning on tackling these at some point soon, so I'll let you know what I come up with.


2007 Jayco Greyhawk - Kodiak 32SS
'00 Subaru Outback Wagon

Rich Panganiban

Southern California, USA

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Posted: 08/20/09 10:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

With regards to the big and bulky shore power cord, I am going to build one that is approximately 12-15' in length. The problem I have with my shore power cord now is that it is so long that it makes it a challenge to maneuver it around, especially when it's cold. Most of the RV Parks and campgrounds we go to have the power pedestal placed so close to the RV that 12-15' should be plenty. On that rare occasion I need a longer one, I still have my original 50-footer. Here's a link:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23100161.cfm

paulin

No. CA

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Posted: 08/20/09 07:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd like to build a 50A cord using welding cable as it is very flexible, but it is also expensive. Anyone know a good (cheap) source for welding cable?

az99

N.Y.

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Posted: 08/21/09 05:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

paulin wrote:

I'd like to build a 50A cord using welding cable as it is very flexible, but it is also expensive. Anyone know a good (cheap) source for welding cable?
I have already purchased the 50A cord at Home Depot or Lowes. Also try an electrical supply house.

Rich Panganiban

Southern California, USA

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Posted: 08/21/09 10:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Al, how long is the cord you purchased? Also, was it a clothes dryer cord? Many thanks.

az99

N.Y.

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Posted: 08/21/09 07:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rich Panganiban wrote:

Al, how long is the cord you purchased? Also, was it a clothes dryer cord? Many thanks.
They sell it by the foot. It is regular flexible cord but is 6 gauge. I think they carried black, yellow and orange.

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