radar46
Langley, British Columbia, Canada
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Joined: 07/09/2002
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Exactly the same thing happened to me a year ago. The bulbous end of the rod that is inserted in the threaded plug appeared to have swollen just enough to jam in the threads of the outlet when removing. When the plug finally broke loose only the steel plug came out, leaving the the magnesium anode rod jammed (it looked like the plug itself had broken in two pieces). I went to my trusted RV mechanic with the plug that came out and he explained and showed me that the entire plug had come out and as the stuck anode rod was a much softer material than the steel threading holding it all I had to do was drive it (forcefully) back into the tank, leave it to dissolve and install a new rod. No problems since.
New rod $15
Solution Priceless!
Cheers,
Radar.
2002 Silverado 2500HD 2WD
Duramax/Allison
2000 30ft. Triple E
Topaz Touring Edition 5'er.
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Jeremy626
IL
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Joined: 07/02/2005
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Any chance you can post a picture of your situation? A picture would help identify what's left in the drain hole and help with a going forward plan.
Jeremy
Rig: 2002 Palomino Stampede S21-SDSL
TV: 2007 Chevy Trailblazer LT 5.3L V8, 3.73
Equal-i-zer, Prodigy BC, Navigon 2100 Max GPS
2009 Trips We've Taken
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hanknjoyce
Livingston, TX
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Joined: 07/14/2005
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More info: In the interest of full disclosure..I have an Atwood water heater which normally does not use/need an anode (I believe only the Suburban units do). Last March in Apache Junction, Arizona I saw one of those "Atwood" anodes in the RV store and decided to try it. I have learned since by searching this topic that the so-called" Atwood anodes are after-market items sold at Camping World etc. and not made by or sanctioned by Atwood. If I get this piece unstuck I will likely go back to a standard plug without the anode.
The stuck piece has a small thin metal "nub" in the middle which makes drilling a hole in the middle somewhat difficult. I like the idea of Thomas/NH (licensed plumber) to drill enough to let the anode drop into the tank..although I am wondering what if any metal will go with it, but am thinking any metal residue might flush back out.
So my lesson to myself today is - unless Atwood (or whoever) makes or approves the product, or someone reputable recommends it, think twice about using it. FYI I replaced the main board in this heater a while back with a somewhat more expensive "Dinosaur" brand after I had three Atwood board failures on the electric side. No electric problems since and the Dinosaur board has a 3 year warranty as opposed to Atwood's six months. But my trusted RV tech told me to do it and personally guaranteed it as well.
Thanks for listening again..
Hank
2005 Mandalay DP
2007 Honda CRV
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alfa38user
Fl
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Joined: 05/04/2009
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Hi ,
As you have discovered, the Atwood heaters do not use anodes. The tanks themselves are aluminum and the anode will cause corrosion of the tank itself. The Atwood tanks normally use a plastic plug for this reason and metal (iron/brass/bronze) plugs should NOT be used. Over time they will become impossible to remove.
The center of the anode is made like a long thin nail with a flat head and the outer dissolving material covers it so drilling the centre is a problem. You might try hitting it firmly in the centre using a centre punch or a drift and hammer or you might try drilling around the 'head' of the nail with a somewhat smaller sized drill and weaken it enough to be able to punch it in. At least then you will be able to flush the heater and get a lot of the already dissolved anode material out along with whatever else is there. Unfortunately, the tank itself may be somewhat compromised already if the so-called "Atwood anode" was made from the same material as the ones used in the Suburban tanks (which, I believe, are steel).
Good luck and let us know what the end result is.
* This post was
edited 09/27/09 02:38pm by alfa38user *
Alfa38User
Montréal, Canada
Alfa Gold 38 (253 RLTES - 2000)
(SW Florida)
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hanknjoyce
Livingston, TX
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Thanks to all for the advice. In the end I did in fact push the anode rod back into the tank....after trying several times to drill holes in hopes of pulling it out. The holes did not work so when I tried to break down the edges with a light hammer and screwdriver the anode simply dropped into the tank. If there is any metal attached to the anode I was told by a neighbor I might be able to get it out with a magnet...later when I flush next time.
I have learned my lesson about anode rods in Atwood water heaters. A couple years back I switched from the plastic plug to brass because the plastic seemed to deteriorate so quickly. But now I know (thanks to this forum) that Atwood wants you to use plastic for a reason.
Hank
2005 Mandalay DP
2007 Honda CRV
A Happy Camper in Custer SD
('Cause the wind finally stopped blowing the snow sideways..)
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Grillmeister
Iconoclast
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Joined: 07/16/2003
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Thanks for posting the outcome.
Show me the GRILL and STAND BACK!!!! 
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