chrisser
Cleveland OH
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Joined: 05/05/2009
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We've never winter camped before, but it sounds like it could be fun.
Been reading about preparation - antifreeze or salt in the black/grey tanks and/or electric tank blankets.
I was thinking that it sure would be nice to have a propane-powered alternative to heating tanks.
Curious if there are any tank heating systems that use a liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger driven off the existing hot water heater to use liquid coils to warm the holding tanks.
Seems like, conceptually, it would work similar to the way the hot water heaters that can draw aux heat from the motorhome engine coolant system would work.
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sum1
So-Cal
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Joined: 11/07/2005
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You could create your own with some tubing, fittings, a small circulating pump, and some insulation. You could temporarily shut down or bypass it when you want a full hot shower.
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chrisser
Cleveland OH
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I think the biggest issue would be regulating the temperature.
If you used glycol in the lines going to underneath the tanks, then you wouldn't have to worry about freezing (you could shut off the circulation pump).
But how to know when to shut it todwn - you wouldn't want to "cook" what's in the tanks with constant exposure to hwt water.
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Chuck&Gail
In the Colorado Mountains
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Joined: 06/16/2004
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IMO just Google Ultraheat, then buy the pads you need for the pipes and tanks. Easy to do and works great.
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Lovely German Shepherd.
1999 Mercedes ML320 TV
2003 Wanderer 187TB Toybox (3620# UVW, 4800# loaded)
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories.
I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
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smkettner
Southern California
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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chrisser wrote:I was thinking that it sure would be nice to have a propane-powered alternative to heating tanks. I would like to capture the heat from the furnace exhaust to keep the tanks, pipes and battery warm in cold temperatures.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
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chrisser
Cleveland OH
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Chuck&Gail wrote:IMO just Google Ultraheat, then buy the pads you need for the pipes and tanks. Easy to do and works great.
How fast do they drain the batteries?
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smkettner
Southern California
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12 volt heaters are not for boondockers using a battery. The 12v stuff is for protection while in transit and even that seems questionable. I calculated mine at close to 50 amps 12v dc to protect all pipes and four tanks. The online webstore gives the amp draw specs.
I am going with 120v tank heaters and some 120v pipe trace cables. I plan to be plugged in if in the snow. In a pinch I could get battery power from the inverter.
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pnichols
Santa Cruz Mountains
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Joined: 04/26/2005
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"I am going with 120v tank heaters and some 120v pipe trace cables."
This approach must be due to the type rig you have - TT or 5'er?.
For Class A/B/C motorhomes with means for keeping coach batteries up when on hookups, 12V tank heaters are of course no problem when 110V power is available. For the rare/unexpected occasion when you must rely on coach battery power, with 12V heaters you still have them available without the efficiency losses you get from inverters powering 120V heaters. I would always use the 12V heaters for the additional flexibility.
BTW, I assume that these tank heaters cycle on and off. So for instance, my two heaters consume 6 to 8 amps each when operating. If they are operating on a 1/3 duty cycle during the cold hours, this means they would consume 40 to 50 amp hours. Of course I have to have some means of topping up the batteries periodically (the next day, etc.) when using the 12V heaters.
Phil, 2005 E450 Itasca 324V Spirit
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smkettner
Southern California
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You are right it is a 5er and while driving there is probably only 15 or 20 amps max getting to the trailer. I have plenty of battery to make up the difference so that is not a huge issue. I just could not get past the extra cost for a dual system. Secondly I have just a 55 amp converter and having a near continuous load of close to 50 amps seemed a bit much to have just a 12 volt system. I only plan on destinations with electric power so the 120v seems plenty adequate. Even if there is an amout of freezing during the drive it should thaw shortly once plugged in or down off the hill.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi smkettner,
A very interesting idea!
What about safety? Unless the tanks are is super sealed I'd sure hate to have the warm exhaust fumes rising into the RV?
I suppose one could just have a long "tail pipe" that went through the tanks area with fins to radiate the heat.
smkettner wrote:I would like to capture the heat from the furnace exhaust to keep the tanks, pipes and battery warm in cold temperatures.
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts solar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries 2500 watt inverter.
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