Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Crimp on electrical Butt connectors
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 > Crimp on electrical Butt connectors

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quabillion

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Posted: 10/28/09 09:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

landyacht318 wrote:

This is almost exactly what I use, and it says it is for Non insulated terminals.



Well then thats your problem. One notch is for insulated terminals and the other notch with its corresponding tooth is for bare metal or non insulated terminals. Using the tooth notch on a yellow plastic (insulated) terminal will most always cause the problem you had.



Side note about crimp vs soldering.
Properly made crimp connections are approved for aircraft use.
Solder connections of any kind are not allowed to fly.

Side note about crimp connectors.
Not all crimp connectors/terminals are created equal. The ones to use are sometimes called nylon, or aircraft terminals. The metal is tinned copper and the plastic is nylon and is somewhat transparent. Stay away from aluminum at all costs. They are easy to spot as you will not be able to see through the plastic at all.

* This post was edited 10/28/09 09:58pm by quabillion *


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landyacht318

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Posted: 10/28/09 10:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Allright, another brainfart on my part. I removed the plastic insulation before crimping, but I always stress any connection I make, insulated or not, after crimping. And I've always used this tool in the same way. The only failure I've had was in the original post, and they didn't pull apart, just heated up enough to melt and smoke the heat shrink and the adjacent wire's original insulation.

It was non transparent insulation that I removed.

* This post was edited 10/28/09 10:16pm by landyacht318 *

LarryJM

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Posted: 10/29/09 02:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

landyacht318 wrote:

This is more of a heads up, than a question.

I removed the alligator clips and about 4 feet of 10awg 2 wire from my Schumacher 2/12/25 amp battery charger.

And used the yellow 10-12 awg Butt connectors to attach this:


I like to remove the yellow/red/blue plastic and use some shrink wrap instead. Usually 2 layers around each connector, and then a larger one over both.
The connector end opposite the charger goes to a short length of 8awg then to 2awg right to the batteries. The Negative wire goes to a buss bar and through a shunt. Total 1 way length from charger to battery, about 4.5 feet, over progressively thicker wire.

Long story short, recently I set the charger to 25 amps, and after 10 minutes, I smelled burning electronics.

The splice right where the butt connectors were was melting and smoking.

I have since soldered these connections instead, but have to conclude that the Butt connectors cannot handle a continuous 25 amps. They might have been bought at Harbor Freight. I can't remember that far back.

I had used the charger like this sporadically for over 2 years, and noticed the connections became warm, but never hot. I wonder if the extra heat was caused by the increasing resistance as my batteries age.

Needless to say, I'm soldering everything than can pull over 20 amps in the future, and anything else I have the time for.


I use those alot, but they are only rated for around 7.5A and I only use them for things that draw 5A or under. They are no good for high amperage circuits.

Larry

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1995brave

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Posted: 10/29/09 05:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use a ratcheting crimper designed for insulated terminals and never had a problem. They have three color coded holes for the color of the terminal and indents so you know which way to put the terminal into the tool.

bill h

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Posted: 10/29/09 01:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Crimped terminals are very good if done properly. I have read tests that showed crimped to be better than soldered.

At the airline, we had to follow FAA rules, and always use crimp connectors with ratchet crimpers. The crimpers would release only if they were compressed enough. They were tested and certified every so often.

But, if you use good name brand terminals and a good crimp tool, and have a good strong grip, you will be OK. I have proven several times that this is OK as checked with a go-no-go gauge. The only thing that makes the ratchet tool legal is that even the strongest man gets tired before the end of a shift if he is doing a lot of wiring, and could under-squeeze a terminal or two.

Our heavy feeder cables were crimped with a hydraulic squeezer, and had to be checked with a gauge each time.


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Chris Bryant

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Posted: 10/29/09 01:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another vote for properly done crimp connections over a soldered connection. A good crimp is "gas tight", and a proper connector can easily handle as much current as the wire.
Heck, the 200 amp feed to our shop has several crimp connections in it, done by the power company, and the crimp on the neutral is a strong mechanical crimp as well (it carries the weight of the feeder).


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javaseuf

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Posted: 10/29/09 02:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

landyacht318 wrote:



I guess I have to retract my statement about using the correct tool. This is almost exactly what I use, and it says it is for Non insulated terminals.


the tool shown is for insulated and non-insulated crimp connectors. The jaws closest to the pivot joint is for the insulated terminals and the next set, going towards the tip, is for non-insulated.


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Learjet

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Posted: 10/29/09 03:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

you can also buy butt conectors with shrink tube already on them

* This post was edited 10/30/09 11:42am by Learjet *


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