John&Joey
Northern MN
(Baby it's cold outside)
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Seems like I have a gremlin living in my 6 gallon DSI Attwood hot water heater. It will ignite but go out after a few seconds. I finally made the connection that the gremlin only comes out during, or after, high humidity.
Any idea what that might be pointing too? I got all the connections cleaned and the grounds shiny. Cleaned the sensor and made sure the gap was right. Gas pressure is good and flame is blue with an initial roar which then tones down. Both gas tube and exhaust tube are clean.
I'm guessing that maybe the sensor has a crack in it. Anybody else had similar experiences?
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tvman44
Southwest Louisiana
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Joined: 09/25/2007
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Try cleaning off the circuit board.
Papa Bob
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Bounder94
Wichita, KS
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Same thing with mine....I replaced every external part except the circuit board...no luck, then I replaced the circuit board with a Dinosaur Board from R&G Electronics http://rg-electrospec.com/ and every thing works perfectly, ever single time....
1994 Bounder 28T with 50k
Ford 460, F-53 chassis
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suchristo01
San Diego, CA
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Fellow down in Baja around 10-18, had a cracked electrode shut down his refrigerator in heavy fog. As the day cleared it would work then fail in the night in fog.
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robatthelake
Vancouver Island
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You could also try spraying the board with a lacquer sealant!
Rob & Jean
Dutch Star Diesel Pusher ..Tracker 4X2
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Chris Bryant
DeLand, Florida, USA
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Just for fun, I would try wiping the electrode ceramic and wire with either silicone lube or Scotch Guard.
-- Chris Bryant
My RV Service Blog
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John&Joey
Northern MN
(Baby it's cold outside)
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Chris Bryant wrote:Just for fun, I would try wiping the electrode ceramic and wire with either silicone lube or Scotch Guard.
Took me a second to figure out where you were going with that, but I figured it out at last. Good idea!
In the old days we would use hair spray on the spark plug wires and cap of a car to seal out the moisture. Doubt if that would be a good idea for this application given the flame.
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nbounder
Arizona mountains
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Ya know, this is the first time I've ever heard of a real honest use for WD40. It's suposed to displace moisture, so it's worth a try. After it fails, I'd go the Bounder 94 route and get a Dinosaur board. If it's still the original board, it deserves a proper burial. It has given up it's life for you already.
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John&Joey
Northern MN
(Baby it's cold outside)
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nbounder wrote:Ya know, this is the first time I've ever heard of a real honest use for WD40. It's suposed to displace moisture, so it's worth a try. After it fails, I'd go the Bounder 94 route and get a Dinosaur board. If it's still the original board, it deserves a proper burial. It has given up it's life for you already.
Another use to keep under your hat. If your car doesn't start in high humidity, it could be due to a crack distributor cap. Spray the cap with WD40 and it should start right up.
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javaseuf
California's Gold Coast
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John&Joey wrote:Chris Bryant wrote:Just for fun, I would try wiping the electrode ceramic and wire with either silicone lube or Scotch Guard.
Took me a second to figure out where you were going with that, but I figured it out at last. Good idea!
In the old days we would use hair spray on the spark plug wires and cap of a car to seal out the moisture. Doubt if that would be a good idea for this application given the flame.
Actually, if the circuit board is the problem, spraying the back-side with hair spray has worked very well fo many according to the techs that come into my business that repair heating and air-conditioning equipment.
Steve
2007 Springdale 291RKL
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