gregrc75
Massachusetts
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In September I purchased a new 2010 Coachmen Freedom Express travel trailer, it came with power stabilizers.
They dont seem to stabilize the TT, not even a little. The TT rocks and shakes to the point where I thought some water in a pot on the stove was going to spill everywhere just from walking up the outside stairs. I know that you are not suppose to support any of the TT's weight and you are only to stabilize with them, but, I have tried setting them with just a little pressure, to a bit more, and then a whole lot more. None of the settings seem to make a difference.
Before this TT I had a hybrid TT with crank down satbilizers, and they seemed to do a better job. Am I doing something wrong or is this a common issue?
Thanks!
2010 Coachmen Freedom Express 242RBS
2006 Nissan Titan SE CC
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bldrbuck
Boulder, Colorado
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I lower the front of my trailer and then put down the stabilizer on the rear and then raise the front about an inch above level and lower the front stabilizers. I also use wheel chocks. Good luck
93 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel, DRW, Crew Cab. PullRite Hitch. 90 Nomad 28' 5er, 375 Watts Solar, 2800 Watt Yamaha Generator, 1750 Watt Inverter, 4 Trogan T105 Batteries, Spare tire and wheel and folding ladder. Me, wife and 2 spoiled Maltise furkids.
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skipnchar
Topeka Kansas USA
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You PROBABLY have suspension bounce going on. With longer trailers the frames will flex and cause them to sag in the middle so with stab jacks at the corners you can still get a lot of movement due to this flex. Add another set of stabs in the center of the trailer and it'll probably stop a LOT of the movement. Test it out by placing a couple of screw type jack stands under the FRAME near the axles to see the difference.
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Bob Vaughn
Seffner, Fl.
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I use the wheel locks that go between the wheels, that makes a ton of difference.....
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gregrc75
Massachusetts
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skipnchar wrote:You PROBABLY have suspension bounce going on. With longer trailers the frames will flex and cause them to sag in the middle so with stab jacks at the corners you can still get a lot of movement due to this flex. Add another set of stabs in the center of the trailer and it'll probably stop a LOT of the movement. Test it out by placing a couple of screw type jack stands under the FRAME near the axles to see the difference.
I never thought of this...thanks for the suggestion, I will try this out.
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gregrc75
Massachusetts
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Bob Vaughn wrote:I use the wheel locks that go between the wheels, that makes a ton of difference.....
Probably a dumb question, but, do you get 2 pair, one for each side? Not sure if chocking one side is adequate?
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BarneyS
S.E. Lower Michigan
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gregrc75 wrote:Bob Vaughn wrote:I use the wheel locks that go between the wheels, that makes a ton of difference.....
Probably a dumb question, but, do you get 2 pair, one for each side? Not sure if chocking one side is adequate?
Yes, get two pair, on for each side! Failure to chock both sides of the trailer may some day result in the trailer swinging around the one chocked side and taking out your leg or worse just as soon as you un-hitch!
The chocks on both sides should be the first thing to go down after you have leveled side to side - before you even unhitch your trailer!
They should also be the last item on the checklist before the walk around when leaving.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
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Lobo2
Georgia
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Joined: 06/15/2009
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gregrc75 wrote:Bob Vaughn wrote:I use the wheel locks that go between the wheels, that makes a ton of difference.....
Probably a dumb question, but, do you get 2 pair, one for each side? Not sure if chocking one side is adequate?
X2 I use one on each side. Made a big difference.
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gregrc75
Massachusetts
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BarneyS wrote:gregrc75 wrote:Bob Vaughn wrote:I use the wheel locks that go between the wheels, that makes a ton of difference.....
Probably a dumb question, but, do you get 2 pair, one for each side? Not sure if chocking one side is adequate?
Yes, get two pair, on for each side! Failure to chock both sides of the trailer may some day result in the trailer swinging around the one chocked side and taking out your leg or worse just as soon as you un-hitch!
The chocks on both sides should be the first thing to go down after you have leveled side to side - before you even unhitch your trailer!
They should also be the last item on the checklist before the walk around when leaving.
Barney
Im sorry, maybe I am confused. I do chock the trailer with wheel chocks on the ground against the tire. I thought you were referring to the devices that ratchet between the tires.
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BarneyS
S.E. Lower Michigan
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gregrc75 wrote:BarneyS wrote:gregrc75 wrote:Bob Vaughn wrote:I use the wheel locks that go between the wheels, that makes a ton of difference.....
Probably a dumb question, but, do you get 2 pair, one for each side? Not sure if chocking one side is adequate?
Yes, get two pair, on for each side! Failure to chock both sides of the trailer may some day result in the trailer swinging around the one chocked side and taking out your leg or worse just as soon as you un-hitch!
The chocks on both sides should be the first thing to go down after you have leveled side to side - before you even unhitch your trailer!
They should also be the last item on the checklist before the walk around when leaving.
Barney
Im sorry, maybe I am confused. I do chock the trailer with wheel chocks on the ground against the tire. I thought you were referring to the devices that ratchet between the tires.
If you use one of the types (ground or between the tires) you don't need to use the other. Regardless of which type chock you prefer, you should use two of them - one on each side of the trailer. I use and prefer the between the wheel chocks. I use Rotochocks.
Barney
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