Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Jack wont retract
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 > Jack wont retract

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427435

Rochester, Mn

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Joined: 11/12/2005

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Posted: 11/03/09 09:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've got one jack that doesn't always come up on its own and I have to pry it up. However, if its in use steadily or is stored with the jacks down, it works every time. Must get a little leakage past the piston seal and keep things lubricated.

To the OP, store the unit for a couple of days with the jacks fully extended. The see if they come up. If not, store again with the jacks fully extended and try again.

I also spray some silicone up into the base of the cylinder on the troublesome one once in a while------seems to help also.


Mark
2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis
2003 Ford Explorer toad with US Gear brakes,
ReadyBrute tow bar, and Demco base plate.


xctraveler

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 11/03/09 09:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

According to the mfg avoid WD 40 on the shafts. The recommended lubricant is plain silicone spray. I wipe down the shafts with silicone spray after they have been down for a while (more than a week) and seldom have trouble brining them up. They will come up much more slowly in temperatures under 40 F.

On mine the front come up very quickly, but the rears take a minute in cool weather. Sometimes one will hang and then I extend it fully and use the silicone and wipe it down, so far this has resulted in compete retraction.

If none of this helps THEN you need to look a mechanical/electrical/valve issues


Paul
Trucking down the road in a 2004 Southwind 36E on Workhorse Chassis with a 2005 Toyota RAV4 AWD stick shift tow'd with US Gear Brake System. Check out my journal
FMCA 352081


dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 11/03/09 10:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK, IF you can retract with a pry bar, then springs will NOT do anygood. The upper seal is bad
If you can retract with a pry bar, then the solenoid is open
Cleaning the exposed cylinder with Trans and steel wool will NOT get the inside part of the cylinder and that is the part that hits and sticks on the upper seal
WITHOUT springs, you can use 1 hand to retract an HWH jack cylinder
The problem with the upper seal is this---You can extend and retract and the seal will allow the cylinder to pass.
The test for a defective upper seal is this--You extend for at least 24 to 48 hours and THEN retract. After the upper seal has been bypassed by the cylinder, it then tightens up a little and then will stop the jack from moving smoothly. That is why if you extend and retract right away the jack will sometimes retract normally. Also if you use any type lube, or clean the cylinder--It is just a temporary fix. Doug

JawPaint

Baltimore,Maryland

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Posted: 11/03/09 12:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This summer my left front jack would not completely retract.The alarm went off and I pryed it up.Farther down the road the alarm sounded and the jack came down about 1/2 inch.It did this three times before I got home. I called HWH and they said to open the valve where it goes into the manifold where you put hydrolic fluid in to relieve the pressure.I have not used the jacks since Sept. so I don't know if the jack will retract. Jawpaint

SRT

Head of the Lakes, MN

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Posted: 11/03/09 12:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Several times a year I spray silicone of the shaft of the jacks. Then run the jacks up and down several times. Seems to help.


SRT
2000 32' HR Vacationer with Banks
1998 Subaru Outback Ltd. 5 spd
Brake Buddy & Blue Ox Aventa II tow bar
FMCA #266040 HRRVC #84109

JawPaint

Baltimore,Maryland

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Posted: 11/03/09 12:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have had this problem before. It happens after I have been driving awhile and the alarm goes off and I stop and pry the jack up.I guess this happens after I hit some bumps that this occurs. Jawpaint

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