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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  > To Winterize or Not To Winterize That Is The Question Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  |  Oldest first Newest first  Page of 3   Next bonanza24 • View posts Texas New Member Joined: 11/23/2008 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Offline Posted: 11/02/09 02:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator I am a new RVer with a 2004 Monaco Diplomat, and I live in West Texas and was wondering if I should winterize my Motorhome now even though I plan to use it occasionally this winter. I have tried to find this information on the web but dont seem to have any luck. So if any of you experienced RVers could help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks David bonanza24 • View posts Texas New Member Joined: 11/23/2008 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Offline Posted: 11/02/09 02:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator Sorry I forgot to mention that I keep my Motorhome outside on Pad it is not inclosed. 427435 • View posts Rochester, Mn Senior Member Joined: 11/12/2005 View Profile Posted: 11/02/09 02:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator So how cold does it get in West Texas and for how long?? Mark 2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis 2003 Ford Explorer toad with US Gear brakes, ReadyBrute tow bar, and Demco base plate. bonanza24 • View posts Texas New Member Joined: 11/23/2008 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Offline Posted: 11/02/09 02:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator It can get down into the 20's but not for very long, just at night and it warms up during the day into the 30's and 40's for periods of about 10 to 20 days. xctraveler • View posts Rochester, NY Senior Member Joined: 10/28/2002 View Profile Offline Posted: 11/02/09 02:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator If you will sleep better, winterize it. Takes a couple of gallons of RV antifreeze at $4 each at most, or just apply 45 PSI air pressure to the inlet and blow the water out of the system. If the temperatures go down to 28 for an hour or two overnight and return to above freezing by day there is no reason to worry. A hard freeze holding through the daylight hours will spoil your fun big time, I would not sleep, but we do get hard freezes here in the NorthEast. Paul Trucking down the road in a 2004 Southwind 36E on Workhorse Chassis with a 2005 Toyota RAV4 AWD stick shift tow'd with US Gear Brake System. Check out my journal FMCA 352081 bonanza24 • View posts Texas New Member Joined: 11/23/2008 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Offline Posted: 11/02/09 02:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator Thanks for he info I really do appreciate it, I think I will just us air pressure and blow the lines out and when we decide to travel just refill the fresh water tank, will that work? enblethen • View posts Moses Lake, WA USA Senior Member Joined: 01/05/2005 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Posted: 11/02/09 03:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator Blowing out works. Drain your water heater with the plug, don't take chances with it. Shut off power to water heater, both electric if equipped and propane. Bud Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow 427435 • View posts Rochester, Mn Senior Member Joined: 11/12/2005 View Profile Posted: 11/02/09 04:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator Blowing out works but, the first time I did it, I set the compressor tank to 45 psi and blew things out. Got to thinking and decided to up the pressure to 100 psi and have a faucet open before applying the pressure. I got a bunch more water out!!! The problem with 45 psi at the compressor is that the pressure drops going through the hose to the fitting on the water supply inlet and then it drops some more going through the fitting. The reduced pressure doesn't result in enough flow to flush all the water out of low spots. Since then, I've used the 100 psi at the compressor BUT I always have at least one faucet open. Before I close the first faucet, I open the second and so on. Works for me here in Minnesota without fooling with the pink stuff (except in the traps). bonanza24 • View posts Texas New Member Joined: 11/23/2008 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Offline Posted: 11/02/09 05:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator I was wondering about the air pressure, my manual says 40psi so you say 100psi is ok as long as you have a faucet open, is that correct? enblethen • View posts Moses Lake, WA USA Senior Member Joined: 01/05/2005 View Profile Good Sam RV Club Posted: 11/02/09 05:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator I would be careful about 100 psi as the faucets are not rated for that nor is some rigs fresh water piping. Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  |  Oldest first Newest first  Page of 3   Next Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  > To Winterize or Not To Winterize That Is The Question

Search:   Advanced Search Search only in Class A Motorhomes

Jump to Forum Recreational Vehicles  - Class A Motorhomes  - Class B - Camping Van Conversi...  - Class C Motorhomes  - Fifth-Wheels  - Folding Trailers  - Hybrid Travel Trailers  - Travel Trailers  - Truck Campers  - Toy Haulers Camping  - Tent Camping  - Family Camping  - Workamping Forum General Forums  - Beginning RVing  - Rallies, Shows and Gatherings  - General RVing Issues  - RV Lifestyle  - Full-time RVing  - Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs  - RVing with Disabilities and Ge...  - RV Pet Stop Technical Resources  - Towing  - Tow Vehicles  - Dinghy Towing  - Technology Corner  - Forum Technical Support  - Tech Issues Locations  - RV Parks, National Parks, Stat...  - Roads and Routes  - Public Lands, Boondocking and ...  - RVing in Canada and Alaska  - RVing in Mexico and South Amer...  - Snowbirds Other Discussions  - Around the Campfire

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