tvfrfireman

Portland, Or

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Joined: 08/21/2006

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In the past I always had to drag the DW to the storage lot to hold the compressor hose to the small white fitting that screws into the
city water connection as there were no threads on the pastic nipple. I tried by myself today and thought maybe I would be able to tape the hose to the fitting but that didn't work. As a last ditch effort, I grasped the brass female fitting that screws onto a tire valve stem that comes from the compressor and pressed and turned the plastic fitting hoping to tap some threads onto the plastic. After about three minutes of screwing and backing up and then screwing some more, I had three entire threads on the plastic stem and the winterizing was now a one person job. I have always wondered why the pastic fitting didn't come with threads. Maybe they are concerned that people might blow up their water lines with excessive pressure.
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b_salgado

Salisbury ,NC,USA

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Joined: 07/20/2004

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I have a brass winterization valve. It looks just like a tire stem. I also have a locking tire chuck. It has, and always will be a one person job for me! If I remember correctly, I purchased the valve from a local RV shop for about $8. It is a Camco item, maybe you could find it in a catalog.
04 Lariat Supercrew 4x4,5.4,3.73, Edge tuner, flowmaster duals
06 Trail Bay 31BH, nicely optioned
Equal-i-zer
Prodigy
Follow vehicle, 05 KIA Sorento EX for the golden retrievers.
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LarryJM

NoVa

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Joined: 11/09/2007

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tvfrfireman wrote: In the past I always had to drag the DW to the storage lot to hold the compressor hose to the small white fitting that screws into the
city water connection as there were no threads on the pastic nipple. I tried by myself today and thought maybe I would be able to tape the hose to the fitting but that didn't work. As a last ditch effort, I grasped the brass female fitting that screws onto a tire valve stem that comes from the compressor and pressed and turned the plastic fitting hoping to tap some threads onto the plastic. After about three minutes of screwing and backing up and then screwing some more, I had three entire threads on the plastic stem and the winterizing was now a one person job. I have always wondered why the pastic fitting didn't come with threads. Maybe they are concerned that people might blow up their water lines with excessive pressure.
I just put a short section of tubing on the nipple on the blow out fitting and another on a fitting that fit my air compressor and secured with worm clamps so once you hook up the fitting and attach the compressor nothing will fall off or leak. Just remember to open one faucet before starting the compressor and then open another valve before shutting the first off and only use like 35 to 40 psi air pressure. It's always been a one man operation for me and don't understand why folks are messing with holding the compressor outlet over the FW inlet, etc. When I set my system up it was a no brainer to do what I did.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
ALL TRAILER MODS>>ETERNABOND INSTALL>>RAINKAP INSTALL
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RodT82721

Pine Haven, Wyoming

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Joined: 08/23/2005

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I used my water-pressure regulator, it has an analog meter.
With a male air-hose-connector mated to the hose input end, so I just attach to the RV's street-water adapter, plug the air hose into the connector and set the pressure to the desired allowed PSI. Then go turn on the compressor. Go inside and start opening faucets.
2001 Winnebago Minni - 31C
Ford E450 - V10 Triton
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dfb

gardnerville

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Joined: 09/29/2005

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I put about 4 gallons of Anti freeze in the freshwater tank, turn the pump on, open the sink hot then cold, toilet, shower, outside shower etc.. then shut off the pump and open all the faucets... Whamo, done/...
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nbounder

Arizona mountains

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Joined: 11/26/2006

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DFB - do you really need 4 gallons? My 53' Bounder only needs about 2 gallons. Are you trying to be on the safe side, or am I being stingy?
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garry1p

Geeville, MS

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I have a short section of hose with the factory male end and a quick disconnect for the air compressor on the other end.
Screw the hose into the city water connection set the output of the compressor to 40/45 psi and open faucets one at a time. After blowing everything out I put everything back for normal operation so next spring I am ready to go.
One man operation.
My old way was to put a few gallons of the pink stuff in a 5 gal bucket.
Use a boat bilge pump to pump the antifreeze through a hose connected to the city water inlet and pump it through the system and then blow it all out.
Last few years I skipped the pink stuff if properly blown out there is nothing to freeze.
Garry1p
1990 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite XL
454 on P-30 Chassis
1999 Jeep Cherokee sport
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DeweyClawson

Enon Valley, PA

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Joined: 09/22/2007

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I put together a garden hose fitting to connect to the city water supply with a male air chuck. set the air pressure to 20 psi and connect the compressor. open the faucets, hot & cold,don't even need to drain the hot tank but I do. Use the suction to pump fitting to pump in about 1 gallon of pink stuff, open each faucet till pink stuff comes out. taps now have pink stuff and the hot tank is empty.
No need to use the pink stuff but it is so simple, and only 1 gal, Why not? makes me feel better.
The fool learns from his own mistakes.
It is the wise man who learns from the mistakes of others.
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J Walker

Oakton, Va

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Joined: 06/12/2003

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garry1p wrote: I have a short section of hose with the factory male end and a quick disconnect for the air compressor on the other end.
Ditto. I follow up by pumping 4 gallons of antifreeze into the lines using the MH water pump and a diverter valve on the fresh water intake just to be sure. The diverter draws antifreeze from a five gallon container in one position and water from the fresh water tank in the other position. I wish I could feel 100% confident that blowing the lines out did the whole job. The cost of antifreeze is pretty insignificant but time and labor saving by skipping it would be great. Also, de-winterizing and re-winterizing would be an option if I wanted to take the MH out during the winter.
Jim Walker
2000 34' Damon Ultrasport DP
2009 Malibu
Brake Buddy
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J Walker

Oakton, Va

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nbounder wrote: DFB - do you really need 4 gallons? My 53' Bounder only needs about 2 gallons. Are you trying to be on the safe side, or am I being stingy?
If you get the pink stuff coming out of every faucet and put some in each trap you should be ok. I use about 3 1/2 gallons and of course put the water heater on bypass. I am curious about your 53' Bounder. I take it that it is neither a 1953 nor a 53 foot MH. Maybe a Ford 53 chassis? Putting your rig in your signature helps.
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