PDBreske
Central Florida
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Last week my daily driver was totaled in a hydroplaning accident on I-75 near Atlanta, GA. I figure this is the best opportunity for me to buy a truck that will haul the truck camper that I want in the future.
I've been looking through the ads, but most of the suitable trucks sell quickly, especially the Dodge trucks with the Cummins engine. (I guess the premium for the diesel really does pay off when it comes to resale.)
I found this on craigslist today: Dodge Ram 3500 w/monster tires and I'm going to try to see it on Sunday.
I'm not crazy about the ride height or the massive tires, but I figure I can find someone who will buy them if I really can't live with them.
Here's my question: What should I look for when I see this truck in person? Is there anything about the 2001-era Dodge that is a particular quirk?
In case this truck doesn't work out, what should I be looking for in general when buying a truck intended for a truck camper? Anything to avoid? (Please don't turn this into a Dodge/Ford/Chevy argument.)
Thanks!
Phil
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Sue Bee
NW suburbs of Chicago
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Personally, I would stay away from modified, especially chipped, trucks. The reason, you ask? Because when you buy a truck that puts out over 300HP and you need to put a chip in to boost HP, what are you doing? (Not all people who chip are beating their trucks by flying off the line and various other things, I just think that it is suspect). After market air filters get my spidey sense going too.
And lifted, if done improperly, can be trouble for rocker arms and joints and balls.
I will likely be completely disagreed with, which is fine. But my personal opinion is to go with a stock truck, or as stock as possible, if it has airbags and ranchos or high quality shocks like bilsteins, then Yay!, otherwise, Nay!
ETA- This 2001 4X4 F350 DRW would be my choice. Never mind, it has 179K miles.
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downtheroad
Puget Sound
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Joined: 02/18/2003
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Sue Bee wrote:Personally, I would stay away from modified, especially chipped, trucks. The reason, you ask? Because when you buy a truck that puts out over 300HP and you need to put a chip in to boost HP, what are you doing? (Not all people who chip are beating their trucks by flying off the line and various other things, I just think that it is suspect). After market air filters get my spidey sense going too.
And lifted, if done improperly, can be trouble for rocker arms and joints and balls.
I will likely be completely disagreed with, which is fine. But my personal opinion is to go with a stock truck, or as stock as possible, if it has airbags and ranchos or high quality shocks like bilsteins, then Yay!, otherwise, Nay!
I agree with this sound advice.
Great looking truck...but, it might be better suited to cruising the mall and impressing rodeo groupies.
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane"
GMC Duramax/Allison (LBZ)
Komfort 277TS Our Rig Picture
Reese Dual Cam HP
Lots of other stuff nobody cares about
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billtex
RI
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Joined: 07/20/2004
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I'm with SueBee on that...modified deezuls?
Are you nutz?
These things can haul/pull anything sold to the general public.
IMO; a truck was modified so someone can get a kick out of stuffing their foot in it all day long. Monster tires? for hauling and/towing? Also not a good idea.
Cool looking truck....but I wouldn't touch it.
Stay stock (except for higher load rated tires/wheels...) and you will be better off.
Not saying everyone who modifies is killing their truck...but I would not.There are a few Folks here that legitimately off-road and need the big sneakers, unless you off-road I would look for a stock truck.
Stick with any deezul dually and you pretty much have your choice of TC's...except for a few reall heavy weights.
Good luck...but keep looking.
Bill
2006 D/A CC
25'Airstream Excella
Adventurer 810WS
Camping all around New England
Good People Drink Good Beer-Hunter S Thompson
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PDBreske
Central Florida
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Thanks, everyone. I'll probably avoid this one then. 
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Sue Bee
NW suburbs of Chicago
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For some practical advice, I don't know much about Cummins, except that my brother has 2 5.9Ls, both of which have well over 100K, one has almost 250K.
If you are looking at a Ford, 7.3L engines are preferred, but will be 2002 and before. They are heavy though, loud, and somewhat doggy, but considered fairly bullet proof. 2003 and 2004 6.0Ls can be problematic. Not all have problems, but tread carefully. 2005 and 06 6.0L seem to have most problems worked out. 6.4L 2007-2008-2009 are so new, it seems hard to know what problems might be out there.
GM, the 6.6L Allison had injector problems (but then again, diesel is dirty, and a lot of diesel engines have injector issues) in the LBZ engine, the LB7, which I have, has an issue with the transfer case and injectors. Not sure post 2005 if there are known issues with the Duramax. But it hasn't really changed in almost a decade, so they have that going for them, much like the Cummins, they have stuck with what worked.
Any truck that you look at, I would be prepared to get dirty when you look at it. Get underneath, look at the pumpkins, look at the transfer case area, the entire drive line, you want to see dry. Drive it before you do this, not just around the block, get the engine hot, and check underneath, and even check the tranny fluid. If it is a 4X4, cycle through 2H, 4H, and 4L.
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B2BBQ
Long Island
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Joined: 06/11/2009
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Sue Bee wrote:Any truck that you look at, I would be prepared to get dirty when you look at it. Get underneath, look at the pumpkins, look at the transfer case area, the entire drive line, you want to see dry. Drive it before you do this, not just around the block, get the engine hot, and check underneath, and even check the tranny fluid. If it is a 4X4, cycle through 2H, 4H, and 4L.
Some very good advice here!
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woodhog
NS
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I would look for a truck in the 5th wheels RV ad sections, try to find one that was not pulling a huge rv 5th wheel and was only used for pulling the smaller 5th wheel.
When you go up to the 3500 series in the dodges the only difference is the helper/auxillary springs in the rear when compared to the 2500 series.(except for dual wheels in the dually version of the 3500.
However a lot of companies buy the 3500 series, oil patch , mining, contractors etc so buyer beware unless you know who owned it.
Be very carefull the 3500 dually version was not used in a Hot Shot trucking type of operation or for pulling heavy commercial goose neck trailers.
The first place I look on any of these trucks is underneath starting from the from the front and sliding backwards.
Look at the tin box and see how beat up it is...especially if the tail gate is bent .
Also the drivers outside seat edge and the shape of the outer area of the seat cushion will tell a lot.
All the dodge diesel generations had their own problems, a lot of lift pump problems, front end universal joints, ball joints, driveline u joints . Weak auto transmission in earlier models, manual transmission problems in Gen 1 and the 6 speed , now for the older manual transmissions it is hard to get parts...
The 2001 generations had a lot of injection pump problems..
The earlier generations had the killer dowel pin problems.
So easy to get burned....
Still a nice engine in those trucks...
I also would not buy one that was not stock, these trucks have all the power you would ever need for a TC without playing with the stock engine/chassis.
2004.5 Dodge 4x4 SRW Diesel 3750 Lb tires.
2006 8.5 Northstar Arrow
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SoCalDesertRider
SanDiego, CA, USA
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An all-stock dually will do right every time.
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6
LoadNGo service body
69Bronco ATC250R CR500
20' BigTex flatbed carhauler
B&W TurnoverBall g-neck Curt Magnum rr DrawTite ft
HD springs Rancho9000s Bilsteins poly sway bushings
285/75-16E BFG AT on 16x8 Stocktons
4.56's & Lock-Rite rear
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