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solismaris

Massachusetts

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Posted: 11/06/09 12:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I removed the plastic drain plug on my water heater for winterizing, the head broke off, leaving the threads in the hole. (Shame on them for not using metal.)
Does anyone have tips on how to remove this so I can install a new plug next year?

Also, this may be a related question: This water heater does not appear to have an anode rod. Is this an option that is intended to be screwed into the drain hole in place of the standard plug? (Or am I looking in the wrong place?)

Finally, when I reinstall the plug (or anode), should I use teflon tape? Is the answer the same whether I use a plastic or metal plug, or if I use an adode rod?

Thanks!


David Kojen

Dutch_12078

Great Sacandaga Lake, NY

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Posted: 11/06/09 12:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Atwood water heaters do not need a separate anode like the Suburbans, due to the aluminum clad tank construction. I've removed broken plastic plugs by melting a couple of slots through the plastic with a soldering iron or a knife heated with a torch. Once the slots are made, the two pieces can be easily popped out with an ice pick or small screwdriver. I use CPVC plastic plugs from the hardware store as replacements rather than risking electrolysis from using a dissimilar metal plug. Their only about 50 cents apiece, so I always have a couple of spares on hand to make sure I won't break another one...


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jesterdog

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Posted: 11/06/09 12:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good stuff Dutch. You might also investigate those tools they sell at Lowes/HD for working on pvc lawn sprinkler systems. If a sprinkler head breaks off (like your plug) you insert this cone shaped tool with blades on the side and try to unscrew the broke off piece...


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beemerphile1

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Posted: 11/06/09 12:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

solismaris wrote:

When I removed the plastic drain plug on my water heater for winterizing, the head broke off, leaving the threads in the hole. (Shame on them for not using metal.)
Does anyone have tips on how to remove this so I can install a new plug next year?

Heat up a large screwdriver or chisel, press into the soft plastic and unscrew it. Replace with a plastic plug and use Teflon tape. Only tighten until it doesn't leak. DO NOT replace with metal.

Also, this may be a related question: This water heater does not appear to have an anode rod. Is this an option that is intended to be screwed into the drain hole in place of the standard plug? (Or am I looking in the wrong place?)

Your brand most likely does not use an anode rod. That is the reason for the plastic plug. What brand water heater do you have?

Finally, when I reinstall the plug (or anode), should I use teflon tape? Is the answer the same whether I use a plastic or metal plug, or if I use an adode rod?

Yes, use teflon tape and do not over tighten.



Tim (in NE Ohio)

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solismaris

Massachusetts

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Posted: 11/06/09 12:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the advice! Great tip to use a heated tool. I was afraid I'd have to use a dremel or something and risk damaging the threads.

I probably overtightened it because I wasn't using teflon tape and needed too much pressure to stop the leak.

whem2fish

arlington texas

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Posted: 11/06/09 12:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

another thought i have a new attwood when i drain i was thinking of tapping the plastic plug and installing a valve any thoughts
dave

targaboat

sulphur springs, tx, usa

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Posted: 11/06/09 02:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Also get as socket which fits the plastic plug and you will have less chance of breaking the head off. I bought one at a pawn shop for two dollars.


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BillyW

North ID

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Posted: 11/06/09 03:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

whem2fish wrote:

another thought i have a new attwood when i drain i was thinking of tapping the plastic plug and installing a valve any thoughts
dave
NO need to tap it. You can buy one ready made with a hole just waiting for a nice brass valve at pretty much any hardware store. You can buy the brass fitting there too. That way you can keep the original as an spare.



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skipnchar

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Posted: 11/06/09 03:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you install ANY kind of metal plug THEN you would need to install an anode rod because you would have two dissimilar metals in contact with the water. The reason Attwood uses a nylon plug AND doesn't need an anode rod is because there are no dissimilar metals used (nothing but aluminum). Add a brass or steel plug and you'll create electrolysis and an anode rod would be necessary to keep it from destroying your tank. It's a very inexpensive and easy solution to the problem to just put a new nylon plug in each season and you should never break onf off in the tank again. If you DO it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to simply drill out the plug as close to the threads as you can without ever touching them. At that point you can use a heavy screw driver or chisel and tap the edge of the remaining plug toward the center. It takes only very light taps to collapse the outer ring inward then just lift the plug out.
Good luck / Skip


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LarryJM

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Posted: 11/06/09 04:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

solismaris,

A couple of comments ...

1. Use either a nylon or acetal plug on your water heater and not a metal one due to potential dissimiliar metal issues.

2. Also since the threads are probably aluminum and you admitted to potentially overtightening the plug, again using something for the plug material that is harder than the threads can damage or strip the threads on the water heater and then instead of just replacing the plug you have to buy a complete new water heater.

Don't over engineer this and just fix the somewhat minor issue you are now facing and learn from it.

Larry


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