FLY 4 FUN
Alberta
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Joined: 11/27/2004
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We dry camp enough that a solar system seems like a good investment. We have twin Trojan T105 batteries and a Honda Eu2000i generator. After month's of research the following items seem like they would suit my charging needs and budget.
Kyocera KD135GX panel
http://store.solar-electric.com/kyso130wa12v.html
Tristar TS45 charge controller
http://store.solar-electric.com/trts12vochco.html
remote digital meter
http://store.solar-electric.com/redimefortrc.html
remote temperature probe
http://store.solar-electric.com/prosremtempr.html
6 gauge wiring from panels to controller and then to battery. I plan to mount the charge controller about 5 feet from the batteries and then run the remote meter to a convenient location. I would like any feedback on this system that I plan to order soon and install in the spring. There is a small sale going on until month end that will help offset exchange and shipping fees to Canada. Thanks in advance.
Daryll
2009 Colorado 29BHS M5
08 Dodge Ram 3500 QC SB 4x4 CTD 3.73
Prodigy BC Reese 16K slider
05 Jayflight 29BHS (sold 2008)
99 Jayco Eagle 12SO (sold 2005)
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BIKERK9
Santa Cruz, CA
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Joined: 02/13/2009
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You get what you pay for. Speak with the people of AM Solar.
I have their system and only accolades.
DoggyDaddy
2008 Damon Outlaw 37', WH-24, 8.1 GMC
Class A Toy Hauler
DoggyDaddy CommunityProfile
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Golden_HVAC
Fulltime, CA, USA
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Joined: 08/19/2003
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Hi,
You want a evaluation of your solar system, but did not state how many amps the charge controller is, or if it is Maximum Power Point Tracking. MPPT is used to convert the nominal 17 volt solar panel output to 13 volts, thus making more amperage going to the batteries.
For instance, if there is 10 amps coming out of the panels at 17 volts (170 watts) then it will make the power into 13 volts at more than 10 amps - and get up to 12 amps into the batteries. This can increase amperage by up to about 20% - a little more if the battery voltage is lower.
I bought my first set of solar panels in 1992, and installed them on a class C, a pair of 45 watt panels, and 15 amp charge controller. Normally by 2 pm, the three 12 volt batteries where full.
After moving it over to the new class A, then the batteries where not full daily, because it has a propane and carbon monoxide detector. These and the refrigerator use about 35 amp hours per day. So we added a 75 watt panel, maxing out the amperage of the charge controller.
Later the decision was made to upgrade to a Solar booste 50, and install a pair of 120 watt panels. I bought those at SolarONSale.com
The first set-up was from RvSolarElectric.com
Rv Solar Electric has some good solar sizing information on their website. They also sell the Olympic Catalytic heaters, leg kits, dust covers, and quick connects for the gas line. I put a quick connect under the stove, and it is out of the way.
You can also get great information about dry camping by googling "Phred Tinseth". He writes many Poop Sheets, that give lots of great tips.
I found that over the years I might have spent $2,500 - $3,000 on my solar system. I figure that has paid for itself many times over in saving on campground fees. Just in 2006, I was dry camping about 300 nights.
I built my own solar mounts for my recent solar panel additions. I used 2" angle aluminum from Home Depot. Cut about 6" long, I put three 3/16" holes in one side, to attach to the roof, and a 5/16" hole in the other side to attach to the solar panel.
I drilled 5/16" holes in the lower corners of the solar panel frames, and installed 1/4-20 "Nutserts" - it is kind of a rivet that has a nut built into it. Then I use a 1/4-20 bolt 3/4" long to clamp the panel to the roof mounts.
Then I bought some 18" long 3/4" light gauge angle aluminum, and drilled a hole at each end. Put a nutsert on one end of each arm. I detach the north side of the solar panels and connect this bracket, then lift the panels at a 45 degree angle, so they tilt into the sun. This can increase power flow by about 20%. I only tilt the panels if I am going to be in one location more than about 4 days.
If you really want to spend some time reading about solar panels, and systems, here is a great magazine. You can download it as a PDF if you like, and save them from sending you the printed copy.
HomePower.com
Also I have been searching the local Craigslist adds, and found some 130 watt solar panels for only $275 each recently. I did not check to see if they have the correct mounts for on a RV roof (I think they did not) but was considering upgrading my solar system. Most of the time new solar panels are twice this much. But a used one is fine with me, even if I will only get 18 years out of it, though I expect they will last more than 35 years. Heck my original ones are now 17 years old, and still going well. No heat distortion.
Good Luck,
Fred.
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FLY 4 FUN
Alberta
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Joined: 11/27/2004
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specifics would be more helpful to me. Is the panel poor quality? Is there another brand to favor. controller too small...or not enough features. I only want to buy once so although you had a good experience with AM solar, I would like to know why their system is better than the next guy. If I really want to spend big $$$ I could shop in Canada where the standard is $8.00/watt.
Daryll
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Golden_HVAC
Fulltime, CA, USA
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Joined: 08/19/2003
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FLY 4 FUN wrote:We dry camp enough that a solar system seems like a good investment. We have twin Trojan T105 batteries and a Honda Eu2000i generator. After month's of research the following items seem like they would suit my charging needs and budget.
Kyocera KD135GX panel
Panel link
Tristar TS45 charge controller
Charge controller link
remote digital meter
Digital meter link
remote temperature probe
Remote temp sensor
6 gauge wiring from panels to controller and then to battery. I plan to mount the charge controller about 5 feet from the batteries and then run the remote meter to a convenient location. I would like any feedback on this system that I plan to order soon and install in the spring. There is a small sale going on until month end that will help offset exchange and shipping fees to Canada. Thanks in advance.
Daryll
Hi,
I made the links clickable.. You can do this by using the tiny little "World" on the top of the post box, and then enter each link into each box.
I really did not take the time to see what your equipment is, because each time I copy and paste a item, it just takes time. (call me a lazy volunteer).
I bought the stuff from RvSolar electric because of their excellent customer support, the discount given to Escapee RV club members, and no sales tax back then on solar panels in Arizona.
I bought the stuff from Solar ON Sale in 1999 because they advertised in Home Power Magazine, and had the best price. they where also fixing my Trace inverter at the same time, so I picked up the panels in person with no shipping fees.
$3 to $4 a watt is considered a good price in the states. Then you need to add another $200 or so for a charge controller, and about 10% tax in California. If you find someone in Oregon, they don't ahve sales tax. ElectronConnection.com comes to mind.
Fred.
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Golden_HVAC
Fulltime, CA, USA
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Joined: 08/19/2003
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Now that I looked at the products, I see that you have been looking at Arizona Wind and Solar, they are a good company, and have been around a long time. They have advertised in Home Power for many years, I would not hesitate to recommend them.
As for the temperature sensor, I would skip that, and save the $30. There are reasons that the temperature compensation are needed, but not really critical for me, or a RV. This is because the batteries require a higher charge voltage when it is cold out, and the controller might be just as cold as the batteries when in winter storage. So no advantage. But if you have the controller in a house (warm) then the temp compensation is good, as it will know the battery is 32 in the winter, and will provide the batteries closer to 14 volts before it stops charging. Yet if the controller is 32, it will do the same thing as if the sensor was in it.
On a really warm day, if the controller is 70, and the batteries are in a small enclosure, and say 95, then the battery voltage should shut off at a slightly lower voltage, and the sensor might help. But this is not going to be typical, and your charge controller can safely feed your whole system output into the pair of batteries safely. Now if you have a 1,000 watt or larger system, then slowing the charge rate when the batteries get warm is a good idea. But your system is small, and the batteries will not overheat due to overcharging from the solar system.
The digital remote display is not going to put any more amps into the solar system. But it will tell you how much is going in. I have a solar booste 50 charge controller, with remote display, it tells me the input amps, battery volts. It hooks up with a telephone type of cord. I bought this larger than average controller thinking I might hook up a 1,000 watt or more solar system someday on a retirement RV. At least I will never need to upgrade again! I had been considering a 25 and 30 amp controller, but thought what the heck, I will never need to upgrade. 30 amps would have been fine, but I am now considering another 130 watt panel, and would have to change everything to 24 volts or replace a 30 amp controller if I was limited to that amperage.
I would not bother with #6 wire, #8 is plenty large enough. #10 is also fine. I used #10 - 2 wire without a ground outdoor gray sun resistant wiring to interconnect all the solar panels on the roof, then run this behind the refrigerator to the solar controller. It used to be behind the closet, next to the refrigerator (old 15 amp controller) and now is in the basement (much larger 50 amp controller with space for 1" conduits and #2 wires). I put the remote display over the hole the old controller was in.
I also have a e-meter. It displays the amperage being removed and put back into the batteries. So I might have a reading in the morning of say -105 AH. That means last night I used about 105 amp hours after the sun went down. If the reading was -75 at 4 pm, it might turn on the charger at night, so the batteries would not get to low overnight. Or if the reading was -175 in the morning, and knowing the system will only put back about 125 AH during the day, I might run the charger for an hour, so the solar will have a chance of refilling during the day.
Of course summer I get many more amp hours, and winter I tend to need to use the generator a bit more (so I am considering a larger solar system, especially if I can buy a pair of used 130 watt panels for $275 each). At this point, my solar system is large enough, but who knows, with such a low price on a used panel, I am tempted to upgrade, although those panels might not have the correct frame for use on a RV.
Good Luck with your project!
Fred.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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Hi Fly 4 Fun,
I don't think that particular morning star is an MPPT charge controller. They do make a model that supports that feature called a TS-MPPT-45. If you only wish to buy once I'd lean toward the TS-MPPT-60.
The cost per watt on the panel is 6.48 and it is a 17.7 volt panel.
The AM solar panel (100 watts) cost per watt is $3.99 and voltage is 22 (48 cells).
If there is physical room on the roof the AM solar panels are going to give 75 watts more capacity for a lower price.
The amp-hour capacity is 225 amp-hours so the "rule of thumb" on sizing is a minimum of 135 watts and a maximum of about 300 watts. The Kyocera is the bare minimum size assuming no line losses or inefficiencies in the charge controller. It is just a tiny bit on the small side once those are taken into account.
I like your choice of wire size.
My favorite panels are from Uni-solar.
For information about my own solar system surf here:
Technology
and click on "Solar Boondocking". There are other items there that may interest you, too.
Have fun! Be sure to let us all know what you decided on and how it works.
FLY 4 FUN wrote:specifics would be more helpful to me. Is the panel poor quality? Is there another brand to favor. controller too small...or not enough features. I only want to buy once so although you had a good experience with AM solar, I would like to know why their system is better than the next guy. If I really want to spend big $$$ I could shop in Canada where the standard is $8.00/watt.
Daryll
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts solar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries 2500 watt inverter.
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SCVJeff
Santa Clarita, CA.
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Joined: 07/28/2006
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FLY 4 FUN wrote:specifics would be more helpful to me. Is the panel poor quality? Is there another brand to favor. controller too small...or not enough features. I only want to buy once so although you had a good experience with AM solar, I would like to know why their system is better than the next guy. If I really want to spend big $$$ I could shop in Canada where the standard is $8.00/watt.
Daryll maybe you should call them and ask. I have 400W from Am Solar and would do the exact system again in a heartbeat. Call and ask them why their panels are 21V and decide for yourself.
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
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RedNeckKing
Maine
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Joined: 04/21/2009
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This is a very interesting read. Handy Bob
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69RoadRunner
VA
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Joined: 01/18/2008
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Yep, Handy Bob says to charge Trojans at 14.8v not 14.4 per Trojan's instructions. Bob also likes 4 gauge from the controller to the batteries.
09 Newmar Ventana 3942
Bunkbeds for the munchkins
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