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 > Condensation on slide area while camping iduring cold Temp

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tarheelman

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Posted: 12/03/09 01:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Camped for first time in my Keystone Passport 290BH.Temp was in Low 30's.Had furnuce running with bathroom vent cracked.Had enough condenstion on slide wall to wet floor behind couch.Next night cracked windows on slide and still the same.I did check rubber seal on top side of slide when I got home.Was turned under when I opened the slide.Hope that was problem.I guess I will take ladder with me when camping to check seal.Make sure it's in right position after I open up slide.Has anyone seen condensation like this on slide wall area.

Thanks Robby


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nelson

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Posted: 12/03/09 03:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it is condensation it should show op on the window first. I have spent many night in below 0 weather and have never had any more the slight damp on the walls. Window can be like it is raining when using the stove because the moisture in burning LP and cooking.


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skipnchar

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Posted: 12/03/09 06:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

How much condensation you get will depend on a number of details about your trailer. How much air leakage you're getting, insulation in the walls and ceiling, use of the range top, vents open or closed, humidity outside etc. I would be concerned if you're getting enough to get carpets or walls wet because that seems excessive but it COULD be that your trailer just isn't designed for cold weather use also. Good luck / Skip


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travelzoo

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Posted: 12/03/09 06:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tarheelman wrote:

Camped for first time in my Keystone Passport 290BH.Temp was in Low 30's.Had furnuce running with bathroom vent cracked.Had enough condenstion on slide wall to wet floor behind couch.Next night cracked windows on slide and still the same.I did check rubber seal on top side of slide when I got home.Was turned under when I opened the slide.Hope that was problem.I guess I will take ladder with me when camping to check seal.Make sure it's in right position after I open up slide.Has anyone seen condensation like this on slide wall area.

Thanks Robby

One thing that may help is to set a small fan blowing into the slide area during the night. For some reason the slide seems to be a dead spot for air movement.

shadoow

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Posted: 12/03/09 09:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

you have the right idea about leaving a roof vent open (doesn't have to be full open..maybe a third), but i would use the one in the living area if you have one. It will promote better circulation in that area.
The fan idea is a good one too as i thought the same thing about a dead area where there's little/no circulation.


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another_newfie

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Posted: 12/03/09 10:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I routinely camp in VERY cold weather and to control moisture it is all about air movement. I have 2 Maxxair vent covers and my vents (bathroom and bedroom) are wide open and we run electric heaters. I minimize the use of the LP furnace if I can help it and we don't cook inside. This controls moisture.

For some more specifics check out my sig for a place that has a wealth of information about camping in cold weather conditions.


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forty4san

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Posted: 12/04/09 12:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Most slides have no insulation (not all). As others have told you air circulation is vital. We always have either the Maxx fan going or the floor fan. Keep that air moving.


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Wes Tausend

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Posted: 12/04/09 01:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

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The advice about fans and dead air space is good. Humidity (water molecules), like leaves, tend to settle where there is little air movement. They also are attracted by any cool surface, such as every outside wall and window.

For this reason, dry vapor tends to slowly migrate through walls to the dead, cool air in between. In some cases, after condensing, it can lift outer fiberglass siding or bubble it, very bad.

It's much more important to vent than is obvious. If humidity doesn't land and condense on the areas you can see, where is it going? Like blown leaves, it's still there somewhere, making something wet. Vent!

Running a furnace does not increase humidity because the combustion vapor goes outside (chimney). Running a stovetop burner or oven does increase humidity, because it is not vented and every burned gallon of propane makes more than a gallon of water.

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PapaJim

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Posted: 12/05/09 08:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The last time we camped in cold weather, we noticed some moisture on the walls of the closets. That is really a dead air (no circulation) area. From now on we will crack the closet and cabinet doors when the temperature drops.

Wes Tausend

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Posted: 12/05/09 03:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PapaJim wrote:

The last time we camped in cold weather, we noticed some moisture on the walls of the closets. That is really a dead air (no circulation) area. From now on we will crack the closet and cabinet doors when the temperature drops.


Under matresses, behind stuffed chairs that touch the wall, clothing hung against the wall. All these areas allow us to "discover" the moisture, only after we open the areas to view. Not every wet spot is discovered, however.

It's still important to reduce interior humidity levels.

Since the water molecules act like leaves blown in the wind and settle in quiet corners, so do they act like leaves blown against a wooden lattice that allows leaves to accumulate under the patio deck at home. The problem is that interior wall surfaces are nearly as porous to "dry" water molecules as lattice is to leaves. We see water on windows because it stops there, very much like leaves blown up against the side of the solid house. Water on walls tends to be visible only when it is so excessive, it is like leaves piled behind the lattice and building up outside the lattice, if that makes sense to everyone.

The usual scenario, to a well insulated camper, is that the "dry" vapor cools to wet dewpoint somewhere inside the wall and condenses there, possibly damaging structure. Example: the inside wall temp is 65°F, the outside wall temp is -20°F and the dewpoint condensation temp is right in between, literally inside the wall.

There is good reason that both water vapor is refered as "dry" and so is the term "dry rot". Dry rot isn't dry at all, but caused by too much moisture often in the form of condensed humidity.

Not to worry too much. Temporary exposure to high humidity levels in a camper usually won't hurt much, as the inner camper walls will dissipate excess moisture given time. But a full time, repeatedly exposed, winter camper is susceptable to damage. Campers aren't moisture protected like new homes are nowadays.

Wes

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