Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Dometic RM1350
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enolacamper

Enola, Pa.

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Posted: 04/17/12 05:38pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2010 Heartland Landmark with the RM1350 in it. I bought it use. ( trade in for a toy hauler) The freezer works greaty but the box will not cool cosistantly. It averages from 42 to 52 degrees and this is when the outside temp is only 70. It doess pike down to 32 and up to 57 on occasion but not for long. I've had the heater core, Main mother board and the thermastat replaced no luck. I have 2 cooling fans outside. I spoke to the original owner and he said It was a problem when he had it and Heartland Dcouldn't fix it.Does anyone have any sugestions? I spoke to an Andrew Cust Service at Heartland and he said it's not their problem.

pulsar

Lewisville, NC

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Posted: 04/17/12 07:15pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Moved from Forum Technical Support to Tech Issues.

Son of Norway

Denver, Colorado

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Posted: 04/17/12 11:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When you say heater core does that mean you had the cooling unit replaced? What are you running it on when you are having the uneven cooling?

Miles


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OldGreaser

South Texas

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Posted: 04/18/12 07:03am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Obviously some knowledgeable techs have already looked at your fridge so it must be frustrating. I've learned a few things since owning my RM1350 that you could check or have checked:
-Can you hear the fans cycle on and off periodically? If not, you will have the symptoms you describe.
-Double check that the doors are closing snugly. We now have the habit of always closing the left door first, ensuring that the 'flap' closes, then close the right door.
-There is a 4 amp automotive blade fuse that should be visible on an orange wire. Change this even if it appears okay. Use one that passes a continuity test.
-If it has 'never' worked correctly, remove the solenoid from the back wall and confirm each of the connections. This could be easily mis-wired such that the fans will not run. While you're at it, bypass it and confirm that the fans will kick in. The solenoid could be toast. It's a very common automotive unit that you can get cheaper at a car parts store than from Dometic.
-If the interior light does not work and you change to a known good bulb and it still does not work, this indicates the small glass fuse on the circuit board is bad or is not making good contact. In this condition the fridge will not work on 110v, but will work on propane. Since yours is keeping the freezer cold this isn't your problem but I'm passing it along for future. (assumes you are on 110v)
-Like all non-compressor fridges, these units take a very long time to cool down. Putting warm food in is not a good practice. If you are comparing the performance to a residential fridge with a compressor, the unit could well appear 'broken' when it is not.
After 2 repaired issues our 1350 is working like a champ. We enjoy the capacity & the ice maker and now that it has 'trained' us, it's working great.
Good Luck & please post the eventual outcome with yours. Inquiring minds want to know...

enolacamper

Enola, Pa.

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Posted: 04/18/12 05:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well got bcak to the rv tonight and the temp is at 33 degrees. Have another appointment in 2 weeks at the shop. Going to start a log with date time outside temp and fridge temp. See if I can find a pattern.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 04/18/12 07:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is the refer in a Slide room?
WHO replaced all these parts and WHY and was it under warranty? Doug

enolacamper

Enola, Pa.

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Posted: 04/19/12 06:12am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes it is in a slide and the work was done by the RV dealer I bought it from and a certified tech closer to my home.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 04/19/12 06:33am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enolacamper wrote:

Yes it is in a slide and the work was done by the RV dealer I bought it from and a certified tech closer to my home.


"Certified Tech" means NOTHING. Any idiot can get the certification. You need to have a Tech that has YEARS of experiance in conjunction with a RVIA certification.
When you have ANY refer in a slide room it is BEST(I think it should be required) to have an extra fan at the top side vent blowing OUT to help the other 2 fans exhaust the hot convection air. What happens normally is the air flows up thru the roof top vent with no problem. But, in a slide room it has to make a 90 degree turn and go out the upper side vent. Even with the required baffle at the top (most OEM's do not install this) to help route the air out the side, you need another 4 inch 12 volt fan pushing the hot air out. That is the FIRST thing I do with cooling issues with a refer in a slide out. Install that fan and see the results. Doug

enolacamper

Enola, Pa.

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Posted: 04/21/12 04:27am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To Oldgeaser! I tried some of your sugestions. Found that the flap on the left door was not coming all the way forward so the right door was not sealing. 3 days and 36 was the highest it has been. Also the left door is not locking whne the doors are locked. Have it scheduled back at the dealer next week.. Going to see if they can adjust the door. Have been closing the left1st andpulling the flap out before shutting the right door. If this works it's almost to simple!

SCClockDr

SC UpState

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Posted: 04/21/12 06:30am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you want to lower your fridge temp range even more there is a Mod you can add to the mix.

Install a 100K pot in series with the chill box thermistor.

The theory is:
By adding a small amount of resistance to the thermistor it fools the control unit into thinking the box is still too warm thus it continues to cool a bit more.

I did this and it indeed helped.

Links:
Update on Potentiometer Install Dometic RM2551 Fridge
Inside temp control for Dometic fridge
Dometic RM2552...Adding Potentiometer To Lower Temperature


George & Cathy
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04 Ram 3500 5.9 DRW, PAC PRXB E/B, 4" MBRP SS Exhaust, Gauges, Aux Tank/box, BrakeSmart.
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