5th wheel hitch questions

[austingta]

I'm ramping up the search for a camper, and I feel I should get the T.V. ready in case I find a great deal.

Is it practical to buy and install a fifth-wheel hitch before I decide on the trailer? I know some are sliders and some are not, and I may or may not need one depending on the trailer overhang.

A) Will I definitively need a slider with a 6.5-foot bed?

B) Will all good hitches adjust up and down enough for all 5th wheel trailers, or is that an unknown? My bed sides are pretty high (all stock).



Is there a brand of hitch that is the accepted best hitch for the buck? I will need rails too, as the truck does not have the factory puck system installed.

Thanks and Happy New Year!

I have edited this post to delete the reference to how much anything weighs. Thanks for all relevant responses.

[Durb]

jshupe wrote:

LIKE2BUILD wrote:

Durb wrote:
....Also, don't think that a 10,000# trailer won't impart much chucking on your truck. My trailer weighs 10,000# and the chucking with a 1 ton dually was horrendous.

My 5er is 10K empty and I use a Curt Dual Jaw 20K hitch, standard pin box, and teflon lube plate. I'm not going say I don't feel the trailer back there, but I honestly have not felt chucking or pushing from the trailer. The combo rides smooth and does not negatively effect ride comfort.

The dual jaw is a cinch to hook up. I set the trailer height for the bottom of the pin box to line up just lower than the flat portion of the hitch plate. I back in, the pin box compresses the rear springs as it slides onto the plate, and when the pin contacts the forward surface of the jaws I hear a loud clunk as the latch closes. It's really that easy and the whole system operates very quietly.

I'm not trying to steer the OP away from the Anderson, I'm just saying a standard pin box and 'regular' 5th wheel hitch can be a smooth combo.

KJ

I didn't have complaints of chucking or ride discomfort with my Superglide hitch. If we experienced those things, it was usually "within reason" for the roads we were on. But there is a notable improvement in all aspects of ride and handling with the air hitch I currently have.

I can't blame a hitch for chucking, mostly the trailer. Our hitch was a new B&W Patriot and worked very nice with a tight hook-up. The problem was our trailer has independent suspension (no equalization), a short axle to pin length and was slightly nose high. We are talking chucking here, head bouncing off headrest and wife holding her chest. She told me to sell the trailer 1/2 hour into the first trip. I was devastated. Good thing the air ride hitch cured the problem completely.

[n0arp]

LIKE2BUILD wrote:

Durb wrote:
....Also, don't think that a 10,000# trailer won't impart much chucking on your truck. My trailer weighs 10,000# and the chucking with a 1 ton dually was horrendous.

My 5er is 10K empty and I use a Curt Dual Jaw 20K hitch, standard pin box, and teflon lube plate. I'm not going say I don't feel the trailer back there, but I honestly have not felt chucking or pushing from the trailer. The combo rides smooth and does not negatively effect ride comfort.

The dual jaw is a cinch to hook up. I set the trailer height for the bottom of the pin box to line up just lower than the flat portion of the hitch plate. I back in, the pin box compresses the rear springs as it slides onto the plate, and when the pin contacts the forward surface of the jaws I hear a loud clunk as the latch closes. It's really that easy and the whole system operates very quietly.

I'm not trying to steer the OP away from the Anderson, I'm just saying a standard pin box and 'regular' 5th wheel hitch can be a smooth combo.

KJ

I didn't have complaints of chucking or ride discomfort with my Superglide hitch. If we experienced those things, it was usually "within reason" for the roads we were on. But there is a notable improvement in all aspects of ride and handling with the air hitch I currently have.

[LIKE2BUILD]

Durb wrote:
....Also, don't think that a 10,000# trailer won't impart much chucking on your truck. My trailer weighs 10,000# and the chucking with a 1 ton dually was horrendous.

My 5er is 10K empty and I use a Curt Dual Jaw 20K hitch, standard pin box, and teflon lube plate. I'm not going say I don't feel the trailer back there, but I honestly have not felt chucking or pushing from the trailer. The combo rides smooth and does not negatively effect ride comfort.

The dual jaw is a cinch to hook up. I set the trailer height for the bottom of the pin box to line up just lower than the flat portion of the hitch plate. I back in, the pin box compresses the rear springs as it slides onto the plate, and when the pin contacts the forward surface of the jaws I hear a loud clunk as the latch closes. It's really that easy and the whole system operates very quietly.

I'm not trying to steer the OP away from the Anderson, I'm just saying a standard pin box and 'regular' 5th wheel hitch can be a smooth combo.

KJ

[n0arp]

laknox wrote:

jshupe wrote:
No, not required. Just makes things easier.

In my case, there is a noticeable difference in the in-bed turbulence when I use my V-gate. I've seen some pretty good-sized pieces of wood levitating in the bed from the turbulence, and have lost a couple boxes of trash and even a set of wheel chocks.

Lyle

Yeah, I lost a few things with the OEM tailgate too. It's amazing how much force is in play there.

[laknox]

jshupe wrote:
No, not required. Just makes things easier.

In my case, there is a noticeable difference in the in-bed turbulence when I use my V-gate. I've seen some pretty good-sized pieces of wood levitating in the bed from the turbulence, and have lost a couple boxes of trash and even a set of wheel chocks.

Lyle

[laknox]

austingta wrote:

shinglers3 wrote:
2011 Chevy 2500HD with the Andersen hitch, under bed gooseneck, we did 2500 mile trip last summer after getting it setup no complaints. The pros for me where price and the fact I can take it out by myself when not towing and put the bedliner back in. Takes me 5-10 minutes, so easy!

My trailer is 8' and I can get 90 degrees. I rotated the adapter and use a 5" offset because that's all Draw Tite offers. Unfortunately, I can't remember how much it clears by.

To the OP, this is my first fifth wheel, and I researched hitches like crazy, good luck, there are many great hitches really comes down to your personal needs. You might want to buy the trailer first, you could always have it delivered and then install the hitch.

I'm the OP and I've been reading everyone's opinions with interest. I appreciate all the responses. I am leaning toward just this option...a B&W Turnover Ball and an Andersen Ultimate aluminum 5th wheel hitch.

The cost for the Gooseneck is 575.00 installed and the Andersen costs 729.00. Any other good quality 5th wheel hitch and rail system seems to cost around that, at least, and under mount rails even more. Cost is not my main consideration. I want a quality, safe product.

Thanks again! Any better options, fire away!

Nice thing about having the GN hitch, is that it gives you the option to =use= it, just don't leave the ball insert at home! Helping a buddy out moving his stock or utility trailer, is always good for a 12 pack. 🙂

Lyle

[n0arp]

No, not required. Just makes things easier.

[austingta]

jshupe wrote:
Remember that you have a toolbox/fuel tank in your bed already. Your truck bed isn't very useful for hauling. The idea of pulling the hitch and using your bed for most things is a fallacy -- there just isn't that much room with or without the hitch. This is how the bed looks with a BD3 and that aux tank in it.

Do you need that tailgate replacement? I see some have them and some don't.

[n0arp]

Remember that you have a toolbox/fuel tank in your bed already. Your truck bed isn't very useful for hauling. The idea of pulling the hitch and using your bed for most things is a fallacy -- there just isn't that much room with or without the hitch. This is how the bed looks with a BD3 and that aux tank in it.

[austingta]

Durb wrote:
If going with the Anderson you may want to put a few bucks aside for a MORyde rubber pin box. It is odd that in their videos that they tout their smooth ride yet they demo it with a rubber isolation pin box. Also, don't think that a 10,000# trailer won't impart much chucking on your truck. My trailer weighs 10,000# and the chucking with a 1 ton dually was horrendous.

If I were doing it from scratch again I would probably go with the Anderson due to it's lightweight and easy hook-up feature and hope for a comfortable tow. However I would go with standard bed rails so that you could easily upgrade to an air hitch if the tow comfort is not to your satisfaction.

I'm in the construction business and tow heavy trailers a lot. I'm used to less than a pillow-soft ride, and this will be a part-time hobby.

Thanks for your advice!

[Durb]

If going with the Anderson you may want to put a few bucks aside for a MORyde rubber pin box. It is odd that in their videos that they tout their smooth ride yet they demo it with a rubber isolation pin box. Also, don't think that a 10,000# trailer won't impart much chucking on your truck. My trailer weighs 10,000# and the chucking with a 1 ton dually was horrendous.

If I were doing it from scratch again I would probably go with the Anderson due to it's lightweight and easy hook-up feature and hope for a comfortable tow. However I would go with standard bed rails so that you could easily upgrade to an air hitch if the tow comfort is not to your satisfaction.

[LIKE2BUILD]

austingta wrote:

shinglers3 wrote:
2011 Chevy 2500HD with the Andersen hitch, under bed gooseneck, we did 2500 mile trip last summer after getting it setup no complaints. The pros for me where price and the fact I can take it out by myself when not towing and put the bedliner back in. Takes me 5-10 minutes, so easy!

My trailer is 8' and I can get 90 degrees. I rotated the adapter and use a 5" offset because that's all Draw Tite offers. Unfortunately, I can't remember how much it clears by.

To the OP, this is my first fifth wheel, and I researched hitches like crazy, good luck, there are many great hitches really comes down to your personal needs. You might want to buy the trailer first, you could always have it delivered and then install the hitch.

I'm the OP and I've been reading everyone's opinions with interest. I appreciate all the responses. I am leaning toward just this option...a B&W Turnover Ball and an Andersen Ultimate aluminum 5th wheel hitch.

The cost for the Gooseneck is 575.00 installed and the Andersen costs 729.00. Any other good quality 5th wheel hitch and rail system seems to cost around that, at least, and under mount rails even more. Cost is not my main consideration. I want a quality, safe product.

Thanks again! Any better options, fire away!

Lots of happy Anderson owners out there so it seems to be a good option if it works for you.

[n0arp]

austingta wrote:

shinglers3 wrote:
2011 Chevy 2500HD with the Andersen hitch, under bed gooseneck, we did 2500 mile trip last summer after getting it setup no complaints. The pros for me where price and the fact I can take it out by myself when not towing and put the bedliner back in. Takes me 5-10 minutes, so easy!

My trailer is 8' and I can get 90 degrees. I rotated the adapter and use a 5" offset because that's all Draw Tite offers. Unfortunately, I can't remember how much it clears by.

To the OP, this is my first fifth wheel, and I researched hitches like crazy, good luck, there are many great hitches really comes down to your personal needs. You might want to buy the trailer first, you could always have it delivered and then install the hitch.

I'm the OP and I've been reading everyone's opinions with interest. I appreciate all the responses. I am leaning toward just this option...a B&W Turnover Ball and an Andersen Ultimate aluminum 5th wheel hitch.

The cost for the Gooseneck is 575.00 installed and the Andersen costs 729.00. Any other good quality 5th wheel hitch and rail system seems to cost around that, at least, and under mount rails even more. Cost is not my main consideration. I want a quality, safe product.

Thanks again! Any better options, fire away!

Best option is an air hitch, as I said before. TrailerSaver BD3 will give you the absolute best ride going down the road, and will be less stressful on both the TV and 5er. It and other full air hitches are in a class by themselves. The BD3, in-particular, comes out of the truck in two fairly manageable ~80lb pieces.

[austingta]

shinglers3 wrote:
2011 Chevy 2500HD with the Andersen hitch, under bed gooseneck, we did 2500 mile trip last summer after getting it setup no complaints. The pros for me where price and the fact I can take it out by myself when not towing and put the bedliner back in. Takes me 5-10 minutes, so easy!

My trailer is 8' and I can get 90 degrees. I rotated the adapter and use a 5" offset because that's all Draw Tite offers. Unfortunately, I can't remember how much it clears by.

To the OP, this is my first fifth wheel, and I researched hitches like crazy, good luck, there are many great hitches really comes down to your personal needs. You might want to buy the trailer first, you could always have it delivered and then install the hitch.

I'm the OP and I've been reading everyone's opinions with interest. I appreciate all the responses. I am leaning toward just this option...a B&W Turnover Ball and an Andersen Ultimate aluminum 5th wheel hitch.

The cost for the Gooseneck is 575.00 installed and the Andersen costs 729.00. Any other good quality 5th wheel hitch and rail system seems to cost around that, at least, and under mount rails even more. Cost is not my main consideration. I want a quality, safe product.

Thanks again! Any better options, fire away!