RV storage

[sleepyhead]

Hey everyone, I have been on break from this site for yrs... I have just joined the class C family. I am curious what kind of storage others are using. I have seen the RV covers from the stores, order some big tarps, to installing the big carports. Thanks for any good pictures or ideas.

[tenbear]

Mine sits outside under a layer of snow. I replace the tires every 5-7 years and have never had a problem with that. I would do the same if it was stored indoors.

I have had no problems with brakes or rotors and have never used an internal heater in storage.

[Bumpyroad]

Olddud wrote:
Those carports look nice, especially with sides.

I doubt that they would be allowed in the zoning for much of the Cary area. Perhaps out in a smaller town/location.
bumpy

[Olddud]

Those carports look nice, especially with sides.

[pnichols]

Here's the least expensive way to get your RV's roof - as well as partially the sides - protected from the sun ... which is the most important protection for an RV to insure that the sun's heat and UV rays don't ruin sealants and plastic items. (Of course this approach may not work if you live where you get heavy snow loads): http://carportsandmore.com/canopies.html

We've used one of these inexpensive carports for years to protect our 2002 family sedan. It's exterior is still in pristine condition being protected this easy way. I sunk concrete footings into the ground and bolted the carport's posts to the concrete to keep the carport in place during heavy winds.

[FunTwoDrv]

Great feedback... headed off to order a proper RV cover!

Gary

[sleepyhead]

Thanks for the quick replies. I am not sure I can put up a carport yet. I was looking at a tarp for a temp until I figure out what I am going to do.

[DrewE]

I keep mine parked next to my garage, no cover or tarp or carport. A carport or garage would of course be nicer. I don't think covers or tarps are worth the hassle.

I have never heard of brake pads or rotors dying in a couple years from being stored outside. Brake fluid, being hydrodcopic, should be changed out every few years regardless of storage conditions.

[pnichols]

We keep ours outside, but parked by some of our big trees such that it gets direct sun only a few hours each day in the summer and almost no sun in the winter. However, the most critical part of how we store ours is we keep in it parked so that the overhead cab window never gets any sun.

It's the sun that's the worst enemy of RV exteriors. It not only fades colors - which can be slowed down with good waxing habits - but most importantly it drys out, hardens, and cracks sealants around all side and roof openings.

Humidity is the worst enemy of RV interiors. If you store it anyway other than inside in a heated room - it's important to keep the inside of the RV ventilated and, if possible, heated somewhat using a small heater set on on a low setting. The small air circulating heaters used in cabin boats when stored moored at a dock are good for this. We keep both rooftop vents open all the way (they have roof covers over them) during the winter rains and a small electric heater turned on during the rainy season. The coach interior should be kept ventilated and warm. We once almost ruined a motorhome by keeping it all closed up and unheated during cold, wet winters - mold formed everywhere inside. That's one thing that really concerns me about those complete canvas covers for RVs. They keep the sun's UV rays from ruining the outside ... but they also prevent interior air circulation and interior heating during moist winters. They trap moisture all over the RV inside and out so mold can form inside and out.

Keeping your rig under a carport, with roof vents open and a small heater inside during the winter is probably the best way to store it other than the very expensive way of inside a heated space. A small heater can be set on a moderater setting and plugged into an inexpensive mechancal timer so that it only comes on nights during cold and wet seasons.

[mgirardo]

A handful of years ago, we had a hail storm that cracked one of the vents on our HTT. I did not have the time to fix it and we had no plans to use it the rest of the winter, so I put a tarp over the trailer and left it till spring. I bought a 20x30 that covered the HTT fine, but its flapping in the wind did wear a small spot on the edge of the roof.

I think one of the big differences between a tarp and a cover is that a tarp gets rigid in cold weather. Combine that with wind and it can cause problems. If you can keep the tarp tight over the camper, it might not be as big a potential hazard. Covers I have seen do not get rigid. Good covers are also breathable, so they do not trap moisture.

-Michael

[cmcdar]

A cover and a tarp are two different things.


Just say NO to TARPS!

Years ago, my BIL and I decided we would leave campers outdoors but tarp them.

We each purchased tarps large enough to cover each of our campers.

We took every step we could to secure the tarps.

In the spring I had a few areas where the paint was worn off the camper.

My BIL hd a HOLE worn right through his door. It appeared that a gromett had enough wiggle room that, blowing in the wind, it slowly rubbed right through the door.

[ron_dittmer]

If you live up north like me and you can work it out "affordably", it is worth having indoor heated storage. In fact, it could pay for itself. Allow me to elaborate.

We have indoor heated storage for our rig. It is coming up on it's 10th birthday and it actually still smells new inside. The tires are original (don't crucify me for that please) and I don't plan to change them anytime soon. I think the rig now has near 35,000 miles which is not a lot for it's age which means it sits a lot. If I stored it outside, I'd have to replace brake pads and rotors every-other or third year. But with our rig, I have not even loosened one lug nut yet. The rig stays that well preserved. If I was not a hands-on guy and kept our rig outside, I think we would have spent-to-date approximately $25,000 on outdoor storage, 3 sets of tires, 3 brakes jobs, and all the other stuff that degrades and goes bad needing repair from sitting outside. Sun, rain, snow, sub-zero freezes, tires in puddles, ground moisture, rodents, all combined are brutal on a motor home. Hopefully you'll never have storm or hail damage, vandalism/break-in/theft, or a storage neighbor accidentally damaging your rig.

So do the rough math. $25,000/10 years = $2,500/year in savings by storing our Phoenix Cruiser at home in our garage. So it seems you could break even by paying $2,500 a year for indoor storage for 12 months a year.

Then add in the "reliability factor". We have less trouble than most others. Actually we have never had any trouble with our rig when using it except once needing a new chassis battery.

Then there is the resale value of a perfectly preserved rig. People who don't know us well enough and come by to visit us, they think we just bought it.

Here is our rig at home. The past week here it has been unseasonably warm in January, very damp & humid outside which makes it damp inside the garage. Being that warm outside, I crank up the garage heater to 70 degrees which dries out the room keeping everything inside in good condition. When it gets real cold, I will lower the temp to around 58.


Look around for local commercial buildings in your area offering indoor heated storage. With our new president promising to turn things around, vacant buildings might get scarce (I sure hope so) but for now they are everywhere.....at least they are abundant here in the Chicago n/w suburbs.

[FunTwoDrv]

Anybody actually experience paint problems directly associated with using a cover?
We have a tarp we put over the top when stored but, are interested in using a purpose made cover.

Gary

[Isaac-1]

I keep mine in a an old shed with a roll up door on the family farm about 20 miles away from here.

[Bumpyroad]

if your codes allow it, I would install a car port on up to a garage. when I first got my Class A I put a cover on it. that lasted a few months. when I bought my house in VA I had the deed authorize a 40x50 ft garage.
bumpy