New TT with some questions

[jrrichar]

Just bought a new ORV Black Rock 20RD (GCWR 6200, full length 24'7, width 8'5). It is still sitting at the dealership due to weather and lack of time to grab it. Went to just sign paperwork as I am traveling extensively for work so won't be able to pick it up until March 1st.

What are the specifics for doing a walkthrough before you take delivery of the trailer?
-Specific points of interest/concern before you take it off the lot?

The tires that come on the TT are 15 inch Goodyear marathon tires (C rated; ST205/75R15 1820 lbs. capacity) and axles rated at 3500 lbs (dual axle trailer).

Would you upgrade to a 16 inch wheel and LT tire (Toyo High Country HD; 2600 lb. capacity) IF you spend a lot of time boon docking and traveling on dirt/gravel single track plus 1000+ mile trips (Pacific NW) at least 3+ times a year. I had 3 major blowouts on a MH and it has left me a bit cautious concerning tires.

Tow vehicle is a 2011 Ford XLT Supercab whose payload (calculated off GAWR which was the limiting factor not the higher payload sticker- thanks to info in this forum) is 1400 lbs. Tires on the truck and suspension just upgraded two years ago. Has tow mirrors, tow haul, and brake controller.

Safety is my primary importance. Would you spend the money on the tire change or would you spend the money on a ProPride hitch? I don't have enough to cover both.

Last question: if you knew you were going to go solar in a year would you buy the batteries configured for solar right away or add to the batteries at a later date? Would you use 4 x 6V or 2 x 12V?

I realize many of these questions are based on personal preference but was just looking for people's opinions on what they consider more significant and why.

Thank you,

Janell

[RvNewbieFl]

I'm personally interested in solar myself for the Travel Trailer I just bought back in November... However i keep seeing you use the words "before I take delivery". This might be of interest to you, my true story... I live in Florida so things might be different here, or might depend on the dealership contract. But it's food for thought, never the less... Somewhere in my 1000s of documents (felt like 1000s anyways) Was this paper that in very fine print said by even signing the paperwork... I acknowledged I was taking delivery...Even though the travel trailer was being delivered by the dealership to my home in a few weeks. Needless to say, the dealership damaged my rv while bringing it to me home... When i talked to the dealership about the damages, they informed me... that also in very fine print, in the contact. It stated they were not responsible for any damages while the rv was in there care at anytime for any reason.. I sincerely hope that this does not apply to you... but it did apply to me... and the more questions I asked, the more they were unwilling to honor anything... including my very expensive top of the line extended warranty I purchased. He actually dared me to use the extended warranty... saying it's not uncommon for simple fixes to take several months to fix... and when I simply asked to speak with the owner of the company... I was told to leave several times or they were calling the cops on me... Now keep in mind... I'm recording this entire conversation for my own personal reasons with my phone.. and I was extremely careful to be calm cool and collected at all times... So i can only imagine how they would of reacted if i had actually been a smart ass... it's best not to pissed off the dealership if it can be avoided... believe me... I sincerely tried because I had already been told no one will do warranty work on your rv but the actual dealership that sold it to you... even though my coverage was supposed to be national wide.... Other dealerships will typically not work on rv's that they didn't sell you...

[ncrowley]

Have pulled lots of trailers, for safety reasons you need to buy a weight distribution hitch with sway bars.

[SoundGuy]

jrrichar wrote:
So based on what I have gathered would a good step be installing an inverter/charger capable of 100amp like Xantrax 2000W?

Heck, there's a plethora of chargers and inverter / chargers available, many of which are quality products in their own right and which could be suitable for use as part of an integrated system. However, you can't just cherry pick any individual product and expect it will necessarily meet your needs, you first need to establish just what those needs are, then design a system that will meet that requirement. As I've already suggested, if you want assistance with this, post your questions on the Tech Issues forum where you'll find quite a few with the knowledge and experience to offer advice that will help guide you to a successful result. Just keep in mind that before doing so you first need to figure out what your end game is as no one here can do that for you. 🙂

[jrrichar]

So based on what I have gathered would a good step be installing an inverter/charger capable of 100amp like Xantrax 2000W?

[SoundGuy]

jrrichar wrote:
From the dealership:

Model number wf_8955 PEC make is WFCO

Well there you go, terrible way to treat a pair or set of 4 expensive AGM batteries. :R Same converter I have that never is able to bulk charge at it's advertised 14.4 volts, same problem many WFCO owners have. 😞 It's good enough for those of us who usually camp on electric sites and don't need much in the way of battery reserve but anything more than a single flooded battery and you really need to have a better charging solution. Read that discussion, you'll understand why. 😉

[jrrichar]

From the dealership:

Model number wf_8955 PEC make is WFCO

[SoundGuy]

jrrichar wrote:
I have no idea what type of convertor my trailer has. The literature/specs for ORVs is poor. Once I take delivery can I look at the convertor and easily be able to decipher what it's ability really is?

Just call your dealer and ask ... tell him you need to know the exact make / model of converter this trailer has so you can then make an intelligent decision about what you want to do about batteries for it. If he plays dumb and says "don't worry about it" then that should be yet another warning that you really need to bone up on this stuff yourself so you don't get talked into something that doesn't really meet your needs. Read that discussion in it's entirety and it should be obvious that it's not just the converter itself that can be problematic as many trailer manufacturers just don't put a lot of care or thought into wiring it. At best it might have 6 gauge wire between the converter and battery, which is barely adequate when you're talking large charging current and not adequate at all if the location of the converter relative to where the batteries are located is a long way away, such as 25' away as is the case with my own trailer. If you want to get into more detailed discussions on this there are a number of folks much better versed than I who can help you sort through this - just start a separate thread on the Tech Issues forum.

[jrrichar]

I MUST buy a WD hitch (my hitch receiver can only take 550 lbs.) question was more a Propride and stock tires or a Blue Ox and upgraded tires. Sorry for the confusion.

[jrrichar]

Thank you sound guy I saw the thread and I am starting to get the idea. All the power in the world delivered to a unsuitable convertor will not be able to adequately charge a large battery reserve like 6V AGMs, correct?

Maybe a dumb question: I have no idea what type of convertor my trailer has. The literature/specs for ORVs is poor. Once I take delivery can I look at the convertor and easily be able to decipher what it's ability really is?

-Janell

[SoundGuy]

jrrichar wrote:
Safety remark: The two questions that apply to this are: I either spend the money to upgrade the trailer tires or I spend the money on a WD hitch that eliminates sway as opposed to reducing sway.

You'll need a properly size and adjusted weight distribution system regardless so IMO you're better off putting $$$ into a quality WD system that includes sway control as a function of the design of the system ... Equal-i-zer, Blue Ox Sway Pro would be just a couple of examples that would work well for you. Neither is "cheap" but either is pretty darned good. 🙂

[SoundGuy]

jrrichar wrote:
Maybe I missed something but wouldn't a generator (3000W) sufficiently recharge a battery bank even without shore power?

You did - a charger that is powered by the generator. 😉 Yes, your trailer has a converter with a charging circuit sufficient for charging a garden variety flooded that you don't have much invested in but once you decide to step up to multiple deep cycle batteries, especially much more costly AGMs, you really need to take a careful look at that converter as chances are pretty good, depending on exactly what it is and how well (or poorly) it's been wired into the trailer, that it won't be suitable at all for properly maintaining an expensive set of deep cycle AGMs batteries. Read that discussion I linked to earlier - you may not understand it all but it will get you thinking in the right direction. 😉

[jrrichar]

Safety remark: The two questions that apply to this are: I either spend the money to upgrade the trailer tires or I spend the money on a WD hitch that eliminates sway as opposed to reducing sway. I do not want to imply that anyone who keeps the stock tires or gets a regular WD hitch is unsafe. Rather if I wanted to increase the safety margin (a major blowout does present a safety risk) what would others lean towards.

[jrrichar]

I'm new to RVing and have never owned a TT.

Sorry I don't remember exactly the batteries but both are flooded deep cycle. I can certainly upgrade them to AGMs for extra $$. The 6V are Trojan and the 12V from memory is interstate (could be wrong). I do not know the exact size of either battery and I do realize the importance of knowing that and the resulting AH. I guess I was just asking a more basic question, which seems to be pick the 6V.

I do have some reading to do and will look into the link. Maybe I missed something but wouldn't a generator (3000W) sufficiently recharge a battery bank even without shore power?

[jrrichar]

Trying to post a reply and the server won't upload it