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New (maybe) Class A owner and Jeep JK

MetalGator
Explorer III
Explorer III
We might be pulling the trigger on a new Class A motorhome this weekend. I have a 2015 Jeep wrangler JK that I would like to use as a toad. I currently have a TT so I am totally new to the motorhome thing. I know there are several hitches and supplemental breaking systems available. I currently have a Blue Ox sway pro for pulling my TT and I really like it. So what is the minimum setup I would need to get my Jeep hooked up? Do I need supplemental breaking? Anything else I need to be aware of? If I do purchase the motorhome, I was going to talk to the dealer about getting all the necessary equipment maybe purchased and setup during the negotiations. Is this a good idea or should I purchase the equipment on my own and just pay them for installation? Any suggestions comments would be appreciated.
2018 Miramar 35.3 Motorhome
3 fur kids (Monty, ZuZu and Pinto)
Rainbow bridge (Murphy, Petie, Lola)
13 REPLIES 13

Highway_4x4
Explorer
Explorer
I am where the OP is but don't have the jeep or MH yet. Still in research and info mode but do have the short list. MH will be a newer but used Newmar Bay Star at 32 ft or less and towing a Wrangler Rubicon to be bought soon. I will be traveling alone with my Bernese Mtn Dog. Present rig is a Ram diesel and a OutdoorsRV TT and is works OK but want the ability to explore more and more room for Berners plus ease of setup. The fear is no ability to back up. I get cold feet over this every day. Once I make the switch there is no going back. A MH is a big $$$$ item that falls like a rock in value. I'll probably just go with all BlueOx system with a Ft bumper on the Jeep designed for a tow bar.
2014 Ram Cummins Laramie, Crew cab, 4x4, Loaded, Snugtop camper
2014 OutdoorsRV Wind River 250RDSW
Big spoiled Bernese Mountain Dog

dubdub07
Explorer
Explorer
If you already have Blue Ox then you know how good the products are. I have Blue Ox everything and have been extremely happy with their products and customer service. I have setup 4 vehicles with their baseplates and I am extremely satisfied. I had one baseplate that would not go on and was a fraction to narrow that I bought from an online retailer. Blue Ox asked no questions, sent me a new baseplate and I sent them the bad one AT THEIR cost.

Plus I am a fan of how hidden all the connections are.
WW
2013 Fleetwood Discovery 40G
TOADS: 12 Jeep JKUR Wrangler, 16 Cherokee Trailhawk, 15 Grand Cherokee, 13 RAM 1500 Longhorn (not a toad) American STEEL = American profits
RET USAF MSGT (26yrs) and still DoD ATC.
DW,DS,DD in the MH w/Westley the killer PUG!

Solo
Explorer
Explorer
micpib1 wrote:
My last years Jeep was a 2015 2 Door with the Falcon II Tow Bar and Base Plate, along with a SMI Stay and Play Brake System. The SMI Stay and Play did not work well with my DP, as the Brake Light stays on whenever the exhaust brake is on, which also kept my Jeep Brakes on excessively.


Hmmm? I wonder if I may be in for a surprise with my SMI Duo set-up on my Jeep. Our current DP is new to us and I have not towed the Jeep yet with it. We've towed the Jeep many, many miles succesfully using the SMI Duo but that was with our former gaser coach. Yes, I am aware of the brake light activation signal that is used on the SMI Duo and wonder how light I may need to set the GFC in the Jeep. How light did you set the G-Force Controller or were you ever able to set it lightly enough to keep it from activating when your retarder activated? With my two stage compression brake on this 8.9L ISL Cummins and the compression brake on the highest setting, there is significant braking-certainly more than enough to activate the SMI unit unless the GFC is set lightly. Don't know about this one-I guess I will just have to give it go.
Solo
2011 Itasca Ellipse 42QD, 450 HP ISL Cummins
2012 Jeep JKU with SMI DUO Braking System

micpib1
Explorer
Explorer
I currently have a Class A DP and pull my 2016 Wrangler 4 door. Blue Ox Tow Bar and Base Plate, M&G Brake System. I am very pleased with both. My last years Jeep was a 2015 2 Door with the Falcon II Tow Bar and Base Plate, along with a SMI Stay and Play Brake System. The SMI Stay and Play did not work well with my DP, as the Brake Light stays on whenever the exhaust brake is on, which also kept my Jeep Brakes on excessively. The M&G works off of my Coach Air Brakes and I love it. Both of these Brake Systems are built in, there is nothing to set up or a box to haul around, etc. You will find that whatever system a poster has, it is the best one... I guess I fall into this category. hahah. JH

Heisenberg
Explorer
Explorer
The Jeep is easy to outfit. Whatever advice you get it will be the easiest car to work with and tow ... period.
2013 Winnebago Sightseer
2017 Colorado

WyoTraveler
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a plug and play wiring harness for my 2012 jeep from etrailer. About $79. Routing wires can still be slow to do a good job. I use the Blue Ox tow bar, Blue Ox Patriot braking system and Blue Ox rock guard. Installed everything myself for about $2600. I upgraded the plug on the wiring harness and added a charge line.

MetalGator
Explorer III
Explorer III
dahkota wrote:
MetalGator wrote:

Thank you for the info. I remember seeing something about the Mopar wiring harness when I purchased the Jeep. Where does this install on the Jeep?


In the engine compartment. One end sticks out of the front of the jeep, the other end is routed to under the passenger side dash.

Here is a write up.

We had it installed when the bumper and winch were installed. Not sure if our jeep mechanic did all those steps. In fact, I doubt it, because the install of the harness, winch, and bumper took six hours total.


Wow, I didn't know that wiring harness was so difficult to install. The write up says he had to take the door and fender off. That seems like a lot of work. Surely there must be an easier way.
2018 Miramar 35.3 Motorhome
3 fur kids (Monty, ZuZu and Pinto)
Rainbow bridge (Murphy, Petie, Lola)

rk911
Explorer
Explorer
MetalGator wrote:
We might be pulling the trigger on a new Class A motorhome this weekend. I have a 2015 Jeep wrangler JK that I would like to use as a toad. I currently have a TT so I am totally new to the motorhome thing. I know there are several hitches and supplemental breaking systems available. I currently have a Blue Ox sway pro for pulling my TT and I really like it. So what is the minimum setup I would need to get my Jeep hooked up? Do I need supplemental breaking? Anything else I need to be aware of? If I do purchase the motorhome, I was going to talk to the dealer about getting all the necessary equipment maybe purchased and setup during the negotiations. Is this a good idea or should I purchase the equipment on my own and just pay them for installation? Any suggestions comments would be appreciated.


at minimum you're gonna need

- a baseplate for the wrangler and a matching towbar (they can be purchased as a set)

- a coiled electrical umbilical cord to connect the brake, turn and tail lights (might be included with the towbar and baseplate)

- a set of safety/emergency chains which will ensure that the jeep will remain connected to the MH in the event of a towbar failure (might be included with the towbar and baseplate)

you should also consider a supplemental braking system for the jeep. your MH brakes were likely engineered to stop the motorhome's gross vehicle weight rating and not anything being towed. and some states require an aux braking system for a towed trailer. there is some confusion as to whether a vehicle flat towed behind a MH constitutes a trailer but we personally think that an AUX braking system should be considered a must. there are three basic types:

- permanently mounted on the firewall or under the hood of the jeep. hookup is a snap but you can only tow that vehicle unless you de-install the system.

- if you're going to tow more than one vehicle then consider a temporary aux. brake. these are self-contained units that sit on the floor in front of the driver's seat that are attached to the brake pedal and which may get their power from the vehicles 12-volt system. the downside here is that this device must be removed each time you want to drive the jeep and re-installed each time you want to tow the jeep.

- if you don't want to mess with either of the above consider an integrated towbar/surge brake. if our current aux brake system ever completely fails (parts are available but no new units are being made) or if I had it to over again this is the option we would likely choose. the downside is you're limited to, AFAIK, a single manufacturer.

but...before you sign the dotted line...do you know what your JK weighs with a full tank of gas but otherwise empty? do you know the various weights and weight ratings (GVWR, GAWR, GCWR, empty weight and more) for the MH? do you know the weight rating of the hitch on the MH? you should before you ink the deal.

do yourself a favor and have the dealer or seller get individual axle weights on the empty vehicle. then calculate the effect the added weight of full fuel (8-lbs/gal), fresh water (6-lbs/gal) and LP (4.2-lbs/gal) tanks will have on the affected axle (usually the rear). then compare the results to the gross axle weight rating (GAWR) for each axle. the difference will be the payload or amount of other stuff (food, supplies, clothing, people, pets, etc. you can add to each axle without exceeding the weight rating for that axle. hopefully the payload for the rear will be somewhere approaching 2000-lbs; the payload for the front will likely be less.

once you've done that you're ready to determine if you can actually safely tow your JK. here's how to determine that.

in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following:

- the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.)

- the weight rating of your tow bar

- the weight rating of your hitch

Your MH will not collapse if it is overloaded but you will experience handling issues as well as longer braking distances and accelerated wear on suspension, brakes, steering, etc.

good luck!
Rich
Ham Radio, Sport Pilot, Retired 9-1-1 Call Center Administrator
_________________________________
2016 Itasca Suncruiser 38Q
'46 Willys CJ2A
'23 Jeep Wrangler JL
'10 Jeep Liberty KK

& MaggieThe Wonder Beagle

dahkota
Explorer
Explorer
MetalGator wrote:

Thank you for the info. I remember seeing something about the Mopar wiring harness when I purchased the Jeep. Where does this install on the Jeep?


In the engine compartment. One end sticks out of the front of the jeep, the other end is routed to under the passenger side dash.

Here is a write up.

We had it installed when the bumper and winch were installed. Not sure if our jeep mechanic did all those steps. In fact, I doubt it, because the install of the harness, winch, and bumper took six hours total.
2015 Jeep Willys Wrangler
2014 Fleetwood Bounder 33C
States camped: all but Hawaii
more than 1700 days on the road

MetalGator
Explorer III
Explorer III
dahkota wrote:
We pull our 2015 Wrangler with a Ready Brute Elite. It is a tow bar and surge brake in an easy to connect package. We have driven 40K miles with this set up without a problem. It takes one person less than five minutes to hook or unhook. Two can do it in two minutes.

To connect the tow bar to the Jeep, we installed a custom bumper(Rockhard)instead of adding a base plate. Using the custom bumper instead of the baseplate allows us greater ground clearance, a level towing hook-up, and space for a winch on our jeep.

We also use a Mopar Wiring harness(Part #82211156AB) to have working lights on the jeep.

Our A is a 34' Bounder with a 5K towing capacity. It is a 22K F53 chassis. It has no problem at all pulling the jeep, even on grades as high as 15 percent. The only time we feared not getting up a hill was on the Dalton Highway.

We really like our set up and wouldn't change any component. Good luck with your new adventure!


Thank you for the info. I remember seeing something about the Mopar wiring harness when I purchased the Jeep. Where does this install on the Jeep?
2018 Miramar 35.3 Motorhome
3 fur kids (Monty, ZuZu and Pinto)
Rainbow bridge (Murphy, Petie, Lola)

MetalGator
Explorer III
Explorer III
Trackrig wrote:
What make and model of MH are you looking at buying? Gas or diesel?

Bill


We are looking at a Miramar 35.3 (Gas). It has an 8K hitch.
2018 Miramar 35.3 Motorhome
3 fur kids (Monty, ZuZu and Pinto)
Rainbow bridge (Murphy, Petie, Lola)

dahkota
Explorer
Explorer
We pull our 2015 Wrangler with a Ready Brute Elite. It is a tow bar and surge brake in an easy to connect package. We have driven 40K miles with this set up without a problem. It takes one person less than five minutes to hook or unhook. Two can do it in two minutes.

To connect the tow bar to the Jeep, we installed a custom bumper(Rockhard)instead of adding a base plate. Using the custom bumper instead of the baseplate allows us greater ground clearance, a level towing hook-up, and space for a winch on our jeep.

We also use a Mopar Wiring harness(Part #82211156AB) to have working lights on the jeep.

Our A is a 34' Bounder with a 5K towing capacity. It is a 22K F53 chassis. It has no problem at all pulling the jeep, even on grades as high as 15 percent. The only time we feared not getting up a hill was on the Dalton Highway.

We really like our set up and wouldn't change any component. Good luck with your new adventure!
2015 Jeep Willys Wrangler
2014 Fleetwood Bounder 33C
States camped: all but Hawaii
more than 1700 days on the road

Trackrig
Explorer II
Explorer II
What make and model of MH are you looking at buying? Gas or diesel?

Bill
Nodwell RN110 out moose hunting. 4-53 Detroit, Clark 5 spd, 40" wide tracks, 10:00x20 tires, 16,000# capacity, 22,000# weight. You know the mud is getting deep when it's coming in the doors.