Plug RV into an invertor.

[lawrosa]

Hi. New camper is on its way soon. I pick up in a couple of weeks..

Man I cant believe all the stuff I had in the old camper... he he. I finally sold the unit in my sig..

Anyway Ill have to reinstall the solar of course but for the new camper a mod I wanted to do was add an invertor. I plan on boondocking more this year

I am going to basically plug the camper into an invertor . With this said I will of course turn off the charging circuit at the convertor.

Has anyone done this?
Any concerns I should be aware of?

The reason I will be doing this on this camper is due to the lack of 12v outlets in this camper. In the old camper I had 3 12 volt outlets and used small 120 watt invertors for things like fan, tv, charging, etc..

With that said im not sure what size to get..

I will limit it to a 1500 watt or 2000 watt unit. May not need all that power but it may be nice to be able to use a toaster oven, microwave, or coffee pot on occasion.

I think I settled on the krieger as I cant afford a pure sine wave and like this price point.

Comes with fuse, wire, remote on off..

http://www.kriegermfg.com/product/kr1500/

http://www.kriegermfg.com/product/kr2000/

[Ron3rd]

lawrosa wrote:

Lawrosa, you're reinventing a wheel. You already have 30A outlet on your TT.

All you have to do is to plug that long yellow cable into it. Disable the converter and make sure fridge is not in Auto. The other end is plugged into inverter through 15M-30F dogbone adapter. Like Soundguy and others suggested.

Yes but the invertrer will be inside the pass through storage. I dont want to just have the cord running through a open compartment door. I want to be able to shut the door and do a professional install.

Plus when camping in cold climates have you ever left the door open in the pass through? Your back will thank you for closing it. The bed is right over the pass through.

Ask me how I know!!!:)

What I did was mount a weatherproof box on the underside of the trailer and ran the 110 AC feed from the inverter to the box. Then I just plug the trailer 30a cord into the box with the dogbone adapter. Been doing that for several years.

[lawrosa]

For hooking up why not try one of these in your storage compartment?
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-mari........nyQmPAAy2RzwNx9vo032-zGzO_L4cBoCa9bw_wcB

Hey thanks for that. I dont know if I want a hole that big, or if I even have a way to make a hole that big.

But thats great advice if I wanted to run the whole giant plug through into my pass through..

The trouble on my coachment is the 30 amp plug is way in the back very corner of the trailer. I think if I pull this cord all the way out I dont think it will even come close the the trailers 1/2 way mark...


See the power cord in back corner...

[lawrosa]

My point is that in the many pages and time you've wasted in over analyzing this project you could have had this installation already completed. [emoticon] You've been offered sensible options, including the opportunity to view pics illustrating how I installed my own inverter in the trailer's front pass through cargo compartment. Hey, do what you want, however you want to do it, but I have no interest in continuing to over analyze what should be a simple project. [emoticon]

Wow your rather rude IMO.. Why are you even still replying or reading this thread?

I dont have the trailer yet its on order from coachmen.

And just my opinion but this seems kind of hackish..

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNtvEg0a8PqycKSEw0m5gS62qOH7Lr28aCPYRUY1E-5KTHHiYHm_zAhZz7_xbYc...

[goducks10]

lawrosa wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
I went the hard way or less complicated for me way when I installed my 1000W inverter.
I just ran house wire to 3 separate 120V new outlets. One in the living room, kitchen area and bedroom. I have a remote switch mounted on the wall in the living area. We have no need to run the micro or AC type items so having the inverter wired for the shore plug isn't necessary. The inverter also has two 120V oulets on it that I use if I need some 120V power outside for something.

I think that would be harder to do running outlets in walls and drilling more un needed hols in walls , floor and such..

After all its easy to plug in IMO to get use of all outlets in the camper. ..

One thing I was not thinking about was the outlet. I guess I could install a 15 amp outlet but I was at the home store and will probably do a TT 30 amp plug to make it simple..



This cover which has a knock out for round outlet above.



Then a regular 1/2" box plastic with a 6ft whip.




Run this into the camper. Drill hole into front passthrough in floor then into another 1/2" box. Then small whip with plug to invertor.

Actually it was pretty easy. All the wires run behind cabinets out of site. Same way the plumbing and other electrical runs. Now I have all the shore power outlets as well as the 12V outlets usable at the same time. That makes it more of a convenience than a necessity

For hooking up why not try one of these in your storage compartment?
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--screw-in-deck-plate-4-smooth-white--11743002?cm_mmc=PS-_...

[SoundGuy]

Boy, you sure are intent on making this much more difficult than it really is!

lawrosa wrote:
??? Did you read my post with the material I listed below?

Yes drill hole in floor in pass through and run carflex whip as I posted to a proper tt outlet with weather cover...

How am I making it harder?

Your continuing over analysis of this project and recent rant about not wanting to run a cable into the pass through cargo compartment hatch door is pointless. You want a "professional" job ... so what, don't we all? The answer is to run the cables through the floor and be done with it. My point is that in the many pages and time you've wasted in over analyzing this project you could have had this installation already completed. :R You've been offered sensible options, including the opportunity to view pics illustrating how I installed my own inverter in the trailer's front pass through cargo compartment. Hey, do what you want, however you want to do it, but I have no interest in continuing to over analyze what should be a simple project. :R

[mbrower]

DrewE wrote:

mbrower wrote:
When I installed my residential refer last year, I wanted it to run on an inverter while we traveled to and from destinations. I also thought it would be nice to power a couple of fans and TV while boon docking when traveling. The easiest solution was to power my electrical load center using the inverter through a transfer switch with shore power. This also brought up a couple of concerns that has already been mentioned in previous posts.

To solve the issues with converter and high load issues were quite simple. I wired in a 20Amp electrical outlet to the shore power side of the transfer switch through a 20A fuse. I plugged my converter to that electrical outlet so it is only powered when on shore power. Next, for high loads such as ACs, Water heater and microwave. I wired in a 4 contact, 40A relay used in HVAC systems that receives its power through the same 20A receptacle. I then ran the hot wire to each device through the relay so those devices will only energize when on shore power and not on inverter.

Took about half a day to wire everything in and so far I'm very happy with it.

To be clear, the switched circuits are switched after their respective breakers in the main panel. The basic idea is a reasonable one.

Having the converter not turn off with the main breaker is IMHO a little questionable and I think violates the NEC. It's not a significant fire safety issue particularly as you describe it, but it could be a safety concern for someone doing repair or maintenance work who believes all the 120V power is removed from the coach wiring by flipping the main breaker (and turning off the inverter).

One way around that is to have the converter be on one of the switched circuits via the relay and power the relay directly from the inverter output before the transfer switch. You would, of course, need to switch from normally open contacts to normally closed ones so the inverter turns the circuits off.

I see your point and thank you for the suggestions. Not sure how it could be a fire hazard since the receptacle is fused and all loads are switched after their own circuit breakers.

I had thought about the alternate circuit you described but wanted to limit the current draw from my batteries when on inverter. Also, as the voltage dropped, I was concerned with the relay chattering and reducing its life expectancy.

I could see a potential safety risk if the converter was hard wired but mine just plugs into a receptacle and would be much easier to work on if it was simply removed from the coach. Regardless, many devices are powered by multiple sources and any one working with electricity should assume a device is powered before they verify zero energy with a meter. However, considering human behavior and not wanting to see anyone hurt, it would be prudent of me to attach a warning label to the converter and will do so as soon as possible.

Thanks for pointing that out.
Mark

[lawrosa]

Boy, you sure are intent on making this much more difficult than it really is! [emoticon] Drill a hole in the cargo compartment floor, run a cable down through the floor from one of the inverter outputs to the outside world, seal it with caulking, and you're done. With the inverter located in the front pass through you'll have to also run cables down through the floor and out to the battery anyway, what's the problem also running the inverter output to the outside world as well? [emoticon]

??? Did you read my post with the material I listed below?

Yes drill hole in floor in pass through and run carflex whip as I posted to a proper tt outlet with weather cover...

How am I making it harder?

[SoundGuy]

Lawrosa, you're reinventing a wheel. You already have 30A outlet on your TT.

All you have to do is to plug that long yellow cable into it. Disable the converter and make sure fridge is not in Auto. The other end is plugged into inverter through 15M-30F dogbone adapter. Like Soundguy and others suggested.

lawrosa wrote:
Yes but the invertrer will be inside the pass through storage. I dont want to just have the cord running through a open compartment door. I want to be able to shut the door and do a professional install.

Boy, you sure are intent on making this much more difficult than it really is! :R Drill a hole in the cargo compartment floor, run a cable down through the floor from one of the inverter outputs to the outside world, seal it with caulking, and you're done. With the inverter located in the front pass through you'll have to also run cables down through the floor and out to the battery anyway, what's the problem also running the inverter output to the outside world as well? :h

[lawrosa]

Lawrosa, you're reinventing a wheel. You already have 30A outlet on your TT.

All you have to do is to plug that long yellow cable into it. Disable the converter and make sure fridge is not in Auto. The other end is plugged into inverter through 15M-30F dogbone adapter. Like Soundguy and others suggested.

Yes but the invertrer will be inside the pass through storage. I dont want to just have the cord running through a open compartment door. I want to be able to shut the door and do a professional install.

Plus when camping in cold climates have you ever left the door open in the pass through? Your back will thank you for closing it. The bed is right over the pass through.

Ask me how I know!!!:)

[Almot]

Lawrosa, you're reinventing a wheel. You already have 30A outlet on your TT.

All you have to do is to plug that long yellow cable into it. Disable the converter and make sure fridge is not in Auto. The other end is plugged into inverter through 15M-30F dogbone adapter. Like Soundguy and others suggested.

lawrosa wrote:
I guess I could install a 15 amp outlet but I was at the home store and will probably do a TT 30 amp plug to make it simple.

[92GreenYJ]

This is exactly what I did for mine. I have my inverter mounted under the front bench of my camper with the battery bank, battery switches, etc. I punched a hole in the front wall big enough to feed the cable thru. Mounted the box to the front wall of the camper on the outside about a foot from where the shore power cord comes out the side. Wired in the TT outlet with a standard three prong 15 amp male plug on the other end to plug into the inverter. I disabled the circuit to my converter permanently as I have no need for it. My solar system is more than enough to maintain my 235 AH golf cart batteries and I rely on that for battery charging at all times. Only thing my shore power does in the driveway is keep the fridge cool.

I boondock exclusively so I built my rig with that in mind. All LED light fixtures inside and out. Tossed the furnace in favor of a Wave 3. Every single accessory is 12 volt as stated earlier in this thread. Tv, stereo/DVD player, lights, fans, you name it. Fridge runs propane mode when at camp. The inverter so far has only been used to run my small coffee pot for a few minutes in the morning. I get a bit of voltage drop when it first heats up but it recovers within a few minutes. I have a spare 2 Farad capacitor floating around from an old car stereo install I've been debating adding in before the inverter to help with the voltage drop issue, but so far it hasn't been an issue.

[lawrosa]

goducks10 wrote:
I went the hard way or less complicated for me way when I installed my 1000W inverter.
I just ran house wire to 3 separate 120V new outlets. One in the living room, kitchen area and bedroom. I have a remote switch mounted on the wall in the living area. We have no need to run the micro or AC type items so having the inverter wired for the shore plug isn't necessary. The inverter also has two 120V oulets on it that I use if I need some 120V power outside for something.

I think that would be harder to do running outlets in walls and drilling more un needed hols in walls , floor and such..

After all its easy to plug in IMO to get use of all outlets in the camper. ..

One thing I was not thinking about was the outlet. I guess I could install a 15 amp outlet but I was at the home store and will probably do a TT 30 amp plug to make it simple..



This cover which has a knock out for round outlet above.



Then a regular 1/2" box plastic with a 6ft whip.




Run this into the camper. Drill hole into front passthrough in floor then into another 1/2" box. Then small whip with plug to invertor.

[goducks10]

I went the hard way or less complicated for me way when I installed my 1000W inverter.
I just ran house wire to 3 separate 120V new outlets. One in the living room, kitchen area and bedroom. I have a remote switch mounted on the wall in the living area. We have no need to run the micro or AC type items so having the inverter wired for the shore plug isn't necessary. The inverter also has two 120V oulets on it that I use if I need some 120V power outside for something.

[SoundGuy]

rickeoni wrote:
There is a lot of info on this post from people that are over thinking the issue. Put the charger on a separate circuit breaker, the black wire is usually piggy backed onto the fridge circuit.

OK, one more kick at this cat and I'm done. :R

To the OP ...

First, it's converter and inverter ... no "or" about it. 😉

Secondly, you're making this far more complicated than it needs to be. Since you seem for some reason to be absolutely against running the inverter outputs to a couple of conveniently located dedicated receptacles the next easiest solution is to simply plug the trailer's main service cable into one of the inverter outputs using a 30amp female > 15 amp male dogbone. The downside is you then have to remember to turn off the trailer converter so you don't create a closed loop. Although this is not always the case you'll most likely find in your new trailer that the converter is protected by it's own breaker, in which case you can turn it off without affecting anything else, no need to rewire the converter so it is on it's own breaker. There's no need to turn off the breakers to the microwave oven or A/C as long as no one tries to run them when the inverter is powering the trailer. You do however want to make sure the fridge is not in the AUTO mode but is instead forced to GAS, and if your water heater has the 120 vac electric heating option you want to ensure it's off as well. This process is quite simple really and frankly not worthy of some of the complication being offered in all these pages of discussion. :R