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Fill up air in inner wheel

richhoward
Explorer
Explorer
First time trying to fill air in the inside wheel on the back of the motorhome and curious if anyone has any tips? I can get the outside tire just fine but the inside tire is at an angle and I cant get through the rim at the proper angle to fill it out?
26 REPLIES 26

chuckftboy
Explorer
Explorer
I have always used the long stems on the inner wheel and I now use TPMS with no issues. The key to not having leaks it to have the hard rubber insert in the outer wheel to hold the stem. I agree that the set-up is a bit pricy but still far cheaper than a new tire.
My chassie came this way from the factory and works just fine. If the nut that holds the stem into the wheel isn't tight enough, it will leak.
2019 Horizon 42Q Maxum Chassis w/tag
Cummins L-9 450 HP / Allison 3000
2006 Jeep TJ and 2011 Chevy Traverse Tows

Pirate1
Explorer
Explorer
mowermech wrote:
I just take my motorhome to the dealer where I bought the rear tires, and he checks the pressures for me.
I'm sure that works great. When travelling, how do you know if you tires ever lose pressure? I have had stems go bad and start slowly leaking. But, whatever, live how you want.

mowermech
Explorer
Explorer
I just take my motorhome to the dealer where I bought the rear tires, and he checks the pressures for me.
CM1, USN (RET)
2017 Jayco TT
Daily Driver: '14 Subaru Outback
1998 Dodge QC LWB, Cummins, 5 speed, 4X2
2 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 ATVs.
Pride Raptor 3 wheeled off-road capable mobility scooter
"When seconds count, help is only minutes away!"

10forty2
Explorer
Explorer
willald wrote:
10forty2 wrote:
For what it's worth to the OP, this is what I used to replace the original valve stems and to eliminate the braided extenders.

Dually Solid Valve Stems


I used to highly recommend the solid dually valve stems like these. Put them on when first bought our Motorhome back in 2012. However, after using them for a few years now and learned a thing or two over the years, I do NOT use or recommend them any more.

I thought they were the perfect solution. One, single, one piece valve, no risk of leaking, and quick and easy to check, top off ALL tires, inner and outer.

Here's the problem: I can't explain why, but the long ones that go on inner tires....They WILL leak. Have no idea how or where, but they do. I was constantly putting air in the rear inners, but rest of tires did not leak at all. Got rid of those valve stems on inners, and the leaking stopped immediately.

Seemed they leaked the most, when climate changed from warm to cold or vice versa, which made me wonder if the issue is with the kind of metal these valves are made of, and maybe they expand/contract at too much different a rate than the wheels, causing leaking? Not sure. I know some will say this is normal with any/all valve stems, but I'm here to tell you, when I took off these valve stems, the leaking quit almost completely. The difference was drastic, and immediate. These dually valve stems, the long one for the inner...They LEAK, there is/was no denying it.

Tire shop examined them (dually stems) very closely when they came off. Valve was not loose, rubber seal inside was not leaking or crushed. They couldn't explain it, either, but agreed from what I found, that those long dually valve stems needed to go.

Now, I use braided extensions on inners, the airless kind. Meaning, even if the extension works loose or tears apart, no air will leak, because there is no air in it except when you hook a gauge or air pump to it. This is what I recommend for the inners, but you MUST make sure they are airless. You don't want any kind of extension that can leak air if it works loose.

For the outers, for now I am still using the dually one piece U shaped valves, as they don't seem to leak as bad. If I can ever find airless U shaped valve extensions, I'll use those on the outers and do away with the dually valves on outers, too.

Bottom line: AIRLESS valve extensions are the way to go, and the only thing I trust now.


Interesting to say the least. Could the installer have caused them to not seat properly when he/she bent the stem to fit? The ones I put on had to be bent slightly to stick out of the hand hole in the wheel and we used a copper tubing bender to make sure we didn't kink or break it in any way. Perhaps you had a bad gasket where the valve bolts into the hole in the rim? Maybe the installer didn't get enough torque on the nuts? Or perhaps TOO much torque? Just guessing here. Since installing mine, other than atmospheric changes, the pressures have remained constant. With the braided extenders, I was always adjusting the cold pressures before I left out for a trip. After two tire failures within 2 months of each other, I am religious about checking and verifying pressures, so I'll keep a close eye out for indications of leaks on the inners with the long valves.
1999 Holiday Rambler Endeavor, 36' Gasser
Triton V10, Ford F53 Chassis
-----------------------------------------

crasster
Explorer II
Explorer II
You can find the long dually air nozzles on Ebay for pretty cheap. There are long ones that are nice, then there are aire nozzles that are over a foot long that are very convenient.
4 whopping cylinders on Toyota RV's. Talk about great getting good MPG. Also I have a very light foot on the pedal. I followed some MPG advice on Livingpress.com and I now get 22 MPG! Not bad for a home on wheels.

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
Even though they were clamped by the rubber grommets they still leaked? That is strange. I have no idea what might have caused that, except maybe defects in the stem hole in the wheel. Like if they weren't properly milled originally and had some metal needles around the hole where the rubber O rings resided. But with two wheels involved, even that doesn't sound reasonable.

Strange, and a warning to always be on the cautious side and check my air pressures often.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.

willald
Explorer II
Explorer II
Jim@HiTek wrote:
Did your stems have clamps?


When you say clamps, do you mean, the piece that goes in the hole on the outer tire, to hold the long valve stem in place?

If so, the answer is yes, we used those. They came with the dually valves in the form of a rubber oval-shaped piece that fit snugly into the hole and held the long dually valve in place (had a hole in center that valve stem came through). That was only thing the valves came with to hold it in place on the outside, and yes, we used them.

We did not have TPMS caps at ends, either. Never have been a fan of TPMS systems that mount onto end of valve stems.

The expansion and contraction of metals, or the differing metals wouldn't have anything to do with it, IMO, because there's a large rubber washer that's there at the mounting area to prevent that sort of failure modes.


That's what I thought, too, but was really at a loss for any other way to explain why those long stems kept leaking..

Will
Will and Cheryl
2021 Newmar Baystar 3014 on F53 (7.3 V8) Chassis ("Brook")
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK ("Wilbur")

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
You didn't mention if you used the valve stem clamps with your long stems. If you don't use the clams, then the spinning tire can cause a slight rocking motion of the long stem, especially if it has TPS caps. That is why you're suppose to add a clamp. The expansion and contraction of metals, or the differing metals wouldn't have anything to do with it, IMO, because there's a large rubber washer that's there at the mounting area to prevent that sort of failure modes.

Did your stems have clamps?
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.

willald
Explorer II
Explorer II
10forty2 wrote:
For what it's worth to the OP, this is what I used to replace the original valve stems and to eliminate the braided extenders.

Dually Solid Valve Stems


I used to highly recommend the solid dually valve stems like these. Put them on when first bought our Motorhome back in 2012. However, after using them for a few years now and learned a thing or two over the years, I do NOT use or recommend them any more.

I thought they were the perfect solution. One, single, one piece valve, no risk of leaking, and quick and easy to check, top off ALL tires, inner and outer.

Here's the problem: I can't explain why, but the long ones that go on inner tires....They WILL leak. Have no idea how or where, but they do. I was constantly putting air in the rear inners, but rest of tires did not leak at all. Got rid of those valve stems on inners, and the leaking stopped immediately.

Seemed they leaked the most, when climate changed from warm to cold or vice versa, which made me wonder if the issue is with the kind of metal these valves are made of, and maybe they expand/contract at too much different a rate than the wheels, causing leaking? Not sure. I know some will say this is normal with any/all valve stems, but I'm here to tell you, when I took off these valve stems, the leaking quit almost completely. The difference was drastic, and immediate. These dually valve stems, the long one for the inner...They LEAK, there is/was no denying it.

Tire shop examined them (dually stems) very closely when they came off. Valve was not loose, rubber seal inside was not leaking or crushed. They couldn't explain it, either, but agreed from what I found, that those long dually valve stems needed to go.

Now, I use braided extensions on inners, the airless kind. Meaning, even if the extension works loose or tears apart, no air will leak, because there is no air in it except when you hook a gauge or air pump to it. This is what I recommend for the inners, but you MUST make sure they are airless. You don't want any kind of extension that can leak air if it works loose.

For the outers, for now I am still using the dually one piece U shaped valves, as they don't seem to leak as bad. If I can ever find airless U shaped valve extensions, I'll use those on the outers and do away with the dually valves on outers, too.

Bottom line: AIRLESS valve extensions are the way to go, and the only thing I trust now.
Will and Cheryl
2021 Newmar Baystar 3014 on F53 (7.3 V8) Chassis ("Brook")
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK ("Wilbur")

10forty2
Explorer
Explorer
For what it's worth to the OP, this is what I used to replace the original valve stems and to eliminate the braided extenders.

Dually Solid Valve Stems

A little pricey, but well worth it to make adjusting pressures easier and to eliminate another source for leaks and ultimately tire failure!
1999 Holiday Rambler Endeavor, 36' Gasser
Triton V10, Ford F53 Chassis
-----------------------------------------

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
hohenwald48 wrote:
DaveG39 wrote:
I have had solid metal valve extenders for inner duals for years with no problem. Also have valve stem covers that you do not have to remove to air up.


Yeah, the solid metal ones seem to work OK. It's the braided flexible extenders that I've had trouble with.


I did have a solid extender that the rubber seal gave out in only 4 years. It would leak down to 40 psi overnight. Really annoying.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.

hohenwald48
Explorer
Explorer
Duplicate
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away.

2019 Newmar Canyon Star 3627
2017 Jeep Wrangler JKU

hohenwald48
Explorer
Explorer
DaveG39 wrote:
I have had solid metal valve extenders for inner duals for years with no problem. Also have valve stem covers that you do not have to remove to air up.


Yeah, the solid metal ones seem to work OK. It's the braided flexible extenders that I've had trouble with.
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away.

2019 Newmar Canyon Star 3627
2017 Jeep Wrangler JKU

DaveG39
Explorer
Explorer
I have had solid metal valve extenders for inner duals for years with no problem. Also have valve stem covers that you do not have to remove to air up.
2007 TropiCal LX towing 2012 Honda
CRV, Goleta, CA