New converter charger options?

[DiskDoctr]

We have WF-8955an converter charger in our new to us TT. What is a good replacement for it that includes 3-stage charging and "regulated" 12v output to lights- to protect 12v LEDs and such when the battery is charging at higher voltage?

Although we do want to save money where we can, this is going to be our Long Term camper for extended trips of about a month or so at a time.

Some factors.

1. We do have a generator: Champion 3100 wireless remote start with 30 amp receptacle

2. Roof mount, ducted 13,500 AC

3. Likely upgrading to dual 6v golf cart batteries

4. Possibly a *little* solar in the next year or so

5. Charging line from Ford Excursion 7.3L Diesel through the 7 pin, or possibly a separate connector in the near future

6. 2 slides. Apparently these things "eat" power. Manuals say shore power might not be enough to operate them if your battery is low (!)

7. We're switching our lights over to LEDs

8. We have an upcoming WEEK without electrical hookups in June. We'll have the generator for an hour or so in the am and the eve.

9. Possible inverter in our future for short 120v usage (big maybe)


I asked similar questions for our Hybrid a few weeks ago, but we've upgraded to this 2005 Cougar 304BHS and will upgrade it instead.

Edit to add link to previous thread: earlier thread

Thanks for any help and suggestions.

[westend]

Here's another wrinkle: No matter how much current your choice of converter can output to the batteries, 100A, 80A. 60A, 45A, the converter will only be delivering high output amps for a short time with two batteries. The battery acceptance will limit the current output of the converter (and quickly). Forum member BFL13 has posted his home made graphs of converter output and the time it takes to charge different batteries. You can search for his posts on that or another graph that shows the effect of battery acceptance.

If you are a typical RV owner and use the usual amount of 12V power while boondocking, the generator only comes out every other day or once a day. The larger converters will only shave off a few minutes of generator runtime as the last bit of charging at lower amps is what the batteries need to be fully charged.

One last wrinkle: Nearly all 6V GC2 golf cart batteries like a charge voltage of 14.8 or higher. The plate construction and consequent charge acceptance is in play with that. AFAIK, no WFCO converter delivers that. The PD converters will operate at 14.8 V. The overall result of charging at a lower voltage will be loss of battery capacity and will somewhat effect longevity. How much that will be is an experiment I'm still carrying out.

My suggestion is to either install a deck mount converter close to the batteries, keeping your WFCO in place and the OEM wiring. A 120V AC wire would be needed to power the converter and, possibly, an additional circuit breaker installed. An alternative is to buy a replacement PD converter, a drop in (PD4060 or PD4045)and either live with the OEM wiring or, if possible, upgrade the wire. Most travel trailers have the converter->battery wire run along the frame so upgrading is not that difficult.

Good luck with your converter upgrade.

[horton333]

afidel wrote:

I'd use a separate one and disable (disconnect) the one in your converter, and yes the idea is that you'd never be drawing anywhere near 80A from your 12V outlets so the voltage drop is less of an issue.

And run a new 115 volt line form the box, thick gauge for an 80 Amp converter. A lot of work all told as compared to a dropin that gets you 95% of the way there.....just sayin'

[afidel]

DiskDoctr wrote:

afidel wrote:
Hmm, at 25' I think I'd go with a deck mount charger, even if you put in 14.8V and used massive 1AWG cable you'd still only be putting 14.3V into the battery which is barely enough to really charge it at a decent pace. That's the one drawback of low voltage DC, distance kills your efficiency.

Deck mounted...as in MOVE the charger/converter, or use a separate one?

Doesn't the charger also supply 12V to the coach?

So I'd have potential voltage loss going back to the circuit panel, but likely never use the number of amps the battery charging would, right?

I'd use a separate one and disable (disconnect) the one in your converter, and yes the idea is that you'd never be drawing anywhere near 80A from your 12V outlets so the voltage drop is less of an issue.

[DiskDoctr]

afidel wrote:
Hmm, at 25' I think I'd go with a deck mount charger, even if you put in 14.8V and used massive 1AWG cable you'd still only be putting 14.3V into the battery which is barely enough to really charge it at a decent pace. That's the one drawback of low voltage DC, distance kills your efficiency.

Deck mounted...as in MOVE the charger/converter, or use a separate one?

Doesn't the charger also supply 12V to the coach?

So I'd have potential voltage loss going back to the circuit panel, but likely never use the number of amps the battery charging would, right?

[afidel]

DiskDoctr wrote:
Thanks all for the input and good discussion. If I can pick your brains just a bit longer...

80amp vs 60amp, I was reading the input requires 20 amp breaker vs 15 amp. My current system has a 15 amp breaker, but I can easily change the Square D Homeline breaker.

I also read an upgrade to 4 gauge wire to the batteries should be used for 80 amp. My distance is probably 25ft from converter to batteries.

Does this sound about right?

BTW, 100 amps with 4 GC batteries? Cool! #jealous#

And 45 YEARS! Wow. That's quite the endorsement 😉

Hmm, at 25' I think I'd go with a deck mount charger, even if you put in 14.8V and used massive 1AWG cable you'd still only be putting 14.3V into the battery which is barely enough to really charge it at a decent pace. That's the one drawback of low voltage DC, distance kills your efficiency.

[trail-explorer]

DiskDoctr wrote:
7. We're switching our lights over to LEDs

I switched to these lights several years ago and they are still working perfect.

For a charger/converter. a 3 stage charging system will be the best you can buy.

[DiskDoctr]

Thanks all for the input and good discussion. If I can pick your brains just a bit longer...

80amp vs 60amp, I was reading the input requires 20 amp breaker vs 15 amp. My current system has a 15 amp breaker, but I can easily change the Square D Homeline breaker.

I also read an upgrade to 4 gauge wire to the batteries should be used for 80 amp. My distance is probably 25ft from converter to batteries.

Does this sound about right?

BTW, 100 amps with 4 GC batteries? Cool! #jealous#

And 45 YEARS! Wow. That's quite the endorsement 😉

[ktmrfs]

DiskDoctr wrote:

DiskDoctr wrote:
I'll look into the 60 or 70 amp PD. I think 80 is larger from the pics

According to the pics and listed dimensions, the 80 amp is 3 inches longer and just under 2 lbs heavier and $28.

Input: 105-130 VAC, 1300 Watts
Output: 13.6 VDC, 80 Amps
Dimensions: 3.6" X 11.5 X 9
Weight: 7.5 lbs.

Any reason NOT to go with the 80 amp? On battery power, will it run hotter, use more 12v, or anything else?

I'd really appreciate an opinion on PD 9280C 80 Amp RV Converter/Charger, found at Best Converter

Progressive Dynamics is pretty much top of the line, right?

the only reason I have for not going as big as you can get relates to your generator choice. In the case of the OP he is probably ok with anything. with a honda 2000, A PD 60A is pushing the limit for the honda VA rating, Power factor is terrible. the 80A exceeds the honda 2000 VA rating when at max output current.

PD, Iota, boondocker are all good units. I have a 45A in my small trailer and a 55A drop in the WFCO box along with a 60A in the pass through I can parallel with in my big trailer. That way with shore power or honda's paralleled I can get over 100A into my 4GC bank if needed.

[westend]

Progressive Dynamics is pretty much top of the line, right?

Pretty much, and their customer service is excellent. FWIW, I have a PD converter that is 45 yrs old and is still operating perfectly.

[DiskDoctr]

DiskDoctr wrote:
I'll look into the 60 or 70 amp PD. I think 80 is larger from the pics

According to the pics and listed dimensions, the 80 amp is 3 inches longer and just under 2 lbs heavier and $28.

Input: 105-130 VAC, 1300 Watts
Output: 13.6 VDC, 80 Amps
Dimensions: 3.6" X 11.5 X 9
Weight: 7.5 lbs.

Any reason NOT to go with the 80 amp? On battery power, will it run hotter, use more 12v, or anything else?

I'd really appreciate an opinion on PD 9280C 80 Amp RV Converter/Charger, found at Best Converter

Progressive Dynamics is pretty much top of the line, right?

[TurnThePage]

Personally, I think if you add a small solar system now, you won't need to replace your WFCO converter. I have 150 watts of solar going through a Morningstar MPPT charge controller that takes great care of my batteries. My 14 year old 35 amp WFCO charger does a great job of filling in the gaps when needed, but the solar otherwise maintains everything.

[DiskDoctr]

I'll look into the 60 or 70 amp PD. I think 80 is larger from the pics

[time2roll]

I understand the 60 will fit in the WFCO slot. 70 might be same size. 80 I believe is a bit bigger. Any of these is fine with 2x GC2. I would try to go 80 for 4x GC2. If you have space behind the panel that is fine too.

See link above.

[horton333]

westend wrote:
Just get a progressive Dynamics converter. If you ever run two 6V GC2 golf cart batteries, you will need the 14.8V.

Do they make a drop in 75 Amp replacement unit .....