what do I do Here?

[dpgerson]

This is a picture of the place where I drain water from my camper. It is the low point. One of them was stuck when I tried to take the cap off. The one on the right. So I broke it accidentally when yanking on it to try to get it loose. Do I have to pull the whole tube now? It doesn't seem that what is remaining can unscrew, but rather I have to get inside the camper and unscrew the whole tube from the pipe. Is that right.

[SidecarFlip]

I could be all wet (pun intended) but I believe most PEX is not UV stabilized.

[joeshmoe]

It's still dumb to extend a potential pressurized line outside the camper.

[mkirsch]

It's not "pressurized."

Worst case if it fails the water runs out of your fresh tank at an excruciatingly slow rate. It's not going to spray or squirt, and as you've seen by this thread, repair is extremely simple.

[joeshmoe]

dpgerson wrote:

AnEv942 wrote:

joeshmoe wrote:

Wait. So those lines are pressurized outside the camper with no shut off? Speaking of dumb stuff.

Correct.

I'm not sure I understand why that's dumb joeshmoe. They seemed to work fine. The only time I used them was when I winterized. Why is that dumb? And please don't make fun of my ignorance as seems to happen sometimes on this website. Before I started this I didn't even know what PEX or a Flare-it fitting was. The only way I learned was by asking "dumb" questions. thanks in advance for your answer.

A plastic, pressurized line exposed to the elements is generally not a good idea. It's one of those things that should not be a problem, but the builder made it a problem by putting it out there. However, I've been in and around plumbing repair for 25 years. I'm a little biased.

[AnEv942]

For me I always saw the drain lines as being easily broke because ours hang down a good 12-14" outside-free in the breeze. Luck is haven't yet. The lines themselves go up inside rear skirt cabinet to wing floor, 36" or better.

The dumb part, in my opinion, other than too long, is the outside length being full of water, subject to freezing- no way to address should they just break or burst.

I don't live nor camp where freezing would be concern. I don't use tools to loosen or tighten the drain caps and location actually would be hard to whack. So they work.

If I ever addressed I would shorten considerably. Adding valves inside the cabinet where line pass doable but unheated so unsure resolve much.If they broke while out would be inconvenient at worst, I can access water in tank or pump into a bucket from broke line.

Dumber in my opinion is no endpoint valves anywhere in our camper except water heater. If I were to add valves it would be at sinks and toilet, likely toilet 1st to throttle it.

[work2much]

dpgerson wrote:
Thanks to everyone who responded. I fixed it for under 20 bucks (flare-it valve and pex cutting tool). Like most stuff with a camper to me, it seemed daunting to try it myself but ridiculously easy once I knew how. Thanks to you folks!

Just went through this cutting down a tube for a new toilet. The flair-it worked like a charm, even in a very tight space.

[dpgerson]

AnEv942 wrote:

joeshmoe wrote:

Wait. So those lines are pressurized outside the camper with no shut off? Speaking of dumb stuff.

Correct.

I'm not sure I understand why that's dumb joeshmoe. They seemed to work fine. The only time I used them was when I winterized. Why is that dumb? And please don't make fun of my ignorance as seems to happen sometimes on this website. Before I started this I didn't even know what PEX or a Flare-it fitting was. The only way I learned was by asking "dumb" questions. thanks in advance for your answer.

[dpgerson]

Thanks to everyone who responded. I fixed it for under 20 bucks (flare-it valve and pex cutting tool). Like most stuff with a camper to me, it seemed daunting to try it myself but ridiculously easy once I knew how. Thanks to you folks!

[AnEv942]

joeshmoe wrote:

Wait. So those lines are pressurized outside the camper with no shut off? Speaking of dumb stuff.

Correct.

[joeshmoe]

AnEv942 wrote:

Ours has no valves before end of low point drains. End caps are the 'valves', loosen or completely unscrew.

Wait. So those lines are pressurized outside the camper with no shut off? Speaking of dumb stuff.

wnjj wrote:


I think the OP just wants to put it back the way it was. The part looks like this $4 one Why spend $70 or even $12?

He might as well buy a couple and replace em both

[AnEv942]

Actually several ways it 'could' be repaired. wnjj is correct in that what OP has is a Flair-It fitting. Flair-It catalog PDF file


I assume its 1/2" pex tube- replacement would be
Flair-It Plug Coupling part #16863

So way to do this #3
Cut tube flush at existing nut, (need clean tube anyway)
Slide new nut onto tube, insert coupling, thread nut onto coupling.

randgsupply-$2.32 #02863 though ship would kill unless you lived near.
Amazon $5.12 free ship
If replacing might use valve #16880 with a cap #16860

[wnjj]

towpro wrote:
you can do this 2 ways.

1) Get a tool to crimp pex pipe. (around $60.00 on up).
go to home center and find "pex ball valve 1/2". ($10 and up) cut off old parts square.
slide new crimp on pipe, than install ball valve, crimp pipe to valve.

2) go to home center and search on shark bite ball valve. they start at $12.00.
cut off pipe square (recommend PEX cutting tool as it is a knife and don't leave barbs, starts at $12.00) slide shark bite onto pipe and your done.

If you use a fitting like below, you can than find the fitting to adapt the output to garden hose.

NOTE: Don't hook both sides up to a "Y", than run one end to garden hose. this will cause your Hot and Cold water to mix and you will not be able to control water temps inside camper if both valves are open and connected together. People with outside showers that have left valves on, and shut water off at hose end have all experienced this.

I think the OP just wants to put it back the way it was. The part looks like this $4 one here. Why spend $70 or even $12?

[towpro]

you can do this 2 ways.

1) Get a tool to crimp pex pipe. (around $60.00 on up).
go to home center and find "pex ball valve 1/2". ($10 and up) cut off old parts square.
slide new crimp on pipe, than install ball valve, crimp pipe to valve.

2) go to home center and search on shark bite ball valve. they start at $12.00.
cut off pipe square (recommend PEX cutting tool as it is a knife and don't leave barbs, starts at $12.00) slide shark bite onto pipe and your done.

If you use a fitting like below, you can than find the fitting to adapt the output to garden hose.

NOTE: Don't hook both sides up to a "Y", than run one end to garden hose. this will cause your Hot and Cold water to mix and you will not be able to control water temps inside camper if both valves are open and connected together. People with outside showers that have left valves on, and shut water off at hose end have all experienced this.

[wnjj]

Pretty sure what remains can unscrew. I think that's just a coupler, used with a cap. My brother-in-law just had the same thing happen to his TT and was able to remove it.

The threaded nut should wind back onto the pipe and then the center pulls out. It may be tough enough that cutting it off is easier.

Google "pex RV coupler" for the part.