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Rubber Roof Life

doughere
Explorer
Explorer
When's it time to throw the towel in and re-roof.

I have a 12 year old rubber roof that is starting to show its age pretty bad. I'm in the south and it is outdoors all the time.

Some of the white top-coating is worn/washed away, and the edges look like they are starting to decay. The surface has a sort of orange-peel look to it.

Is it worth the trouble to apply one of the many miracle roof coating. Is it worth it to take all the edge trim off, and cover the edges with eternabond (I've used it for repairs, and it appears to stick forever); or is it time to do it over.

Thoughts ???

Thanks,
Doug
17 REPLIES 17

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Layton30 wrote:
We coated our fifth wheel about four years ago with a product called Superior RV. It is quite a bit different from the elastomeric products we have tried in the past, as it forms a whole new roof skin that is tougher than the original rubber. Can't remember who makes it, but it is on Ebay. 4 years in the Florida sun and still perfect. Best money I ever spent.
Looks like a thermoplastic material, $523 for a 35-39 ft MH. Thermoplastic should be more durable than Liquid Rubber.

Layton30
Explorer
Explorer
We coated our fifth wheel about four years ago with a product called Superior RV. It is quite a bit different from the elastomeric products we have tried in the past, as it forms a whole new roof skin that is tougher than the original rubber. Can't remember who makes it, but it is on Ebay. 4 years in the Florida sun and still perfect. Best money I ever spent.

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
John&Joey wrote:
If you're talking about laying down new rubber then a good roofer can make it look VERY easy. A DIY can end up with lots of bubbles and wrinkles. It's all in how you lay down the rubber. One nice fluid curved rubber sheet lay down.

I think he was talking about Liquid Roof. Not rubber sheet.

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
DiskDoctr wrote:
So other than Liquid Roof, what would be the "other coatings" that work?

The "building stuff": Liquid Rubber. Same composition, lower cost, no differences btw the two have been reported by users. Manufacturer have added the line that Liquid Roof is a "specifically formulated version of Liquid Rubber for moving vehicles", don't remember seeing it earlier :).

And then, there are coatings like Kool Seal etc, those are basically thick paint, not liquid EPDM.

Yeah, on commercials videos liquid EPDM looks easy but it is dense and heavy, and some prep work and repairs might be needed before doing this. Still easier than laying down new "solid" EPDM membrane in rolls.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
$17,000 for a rubber roof installed on a friend's 2004 Journey, in progress right now.
This is replacing the all fiberglass sheeting that blew off in 60 mph Santa Anna cross winds in S CA a few weeks ago. This includes all new 1/4" plywood underlayment, and new formed SS fillers for the sides. Quite an operation.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

John_Joey
Explorer
Explorer
DiskDoctr wrote:
DIY, looks easy.


It always does. If you're talking about laying down new rubber then a good roofer can make it look VERY easy. A DIY can end up with lots of bubbles and wrinkles. It's all in how you lay down the rubber. One nice fluid curved rubber sheet lay down. Not so simple if it's your first time, and you got two left feet.
There’s no fool, like an old fool.

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
$500-$1000 is what I was finding for the Liquid Roof (for RVs, not the building stuff) for a 34ft camper, without the slides.

DIY, looks easy.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
westend wrote:
A lot depends on condition of EPDM and your budget. If you're a die hard DIY'er, installing a new EPDM membrane is not that difficult and should last many years. Cost would vary by area and supplier but $300 is probably a good target for DIY.

Coatings are just that, a paint basically, that is applied to the surface and will change appearance and offer some UV protection. I sprayed my aluminum roof with an acrylic elastomeric roof paint and it is holding up well at five years (stored outside). I used White and it lowered the cabin temps by 10f. Typical elastomeric roof paints cost in the neighborhood of $30-> $50/ gallon. Do two coats.


How many EPDM rubber roofs have YOU replaced? $300 for a DIY? What a Crock. You have to remove the roof top appliances. You then replace the seals on the AC units. You replace the Plumbing vents stacks. You usually replace the roof top vent covers as they are usually UV degraded. You have butyl tape and Dicor sealant. You have the rubber membrane and the adhesive. You also have to install ALL NEW WOOD DECKING. The EPDM will not stick to the old EPDW glue after you remove the EPDM. Parts alone will run over $700 if you find good deals on the EPDM. Doug

westend
Explorer
Explorer
A lot depends on condition of EPDM and your budget. If you're a die hard DIY'er, installing a new EPDM membrane is not that difficult and should last many years. Cost would vary by area and supplier but $300 is probably a good target for DIY.

Coatings are just that, a paint basically, that is applied to the surface and will change appearance and offer some UV protection. I sprayed my aluminum roof with an acrylic elastomeric roof paint and it is holding up well at five years (stored outside). I used White and it lowered the cabin temps by 10f. Typical elastomeric roof paints cost in the neighborhood of $30-> $50/ gallon. Do two coats.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
DiskDoctr wrote:
So other than Liquid Roof, what would be the "other coatings" that work?
Acrylic and latex coatings like Kool Coat, Bus Cote, Heng's, Dicor, Henry's to name a few. EPDM like Liquid Roof would be the most expensive.

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
So other than Liquid Roof, what would be the "other coatings" that work?

John_Joey
Explorer
Explorer
Gjac wrote:
...snip... Knowing what I know now I would give it 2 coats of one of these coatings as soon as the black spots start to show through that top white surface...


^^X2^^

Rubber roofs will go 20 years. A little TLC along the way will pay back with dividends. Using liquid rubber to me is over kill unless there is a clear need to use it.
There’s no fool, like an old fool.

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
timmac wrote:
It really depends on the age of your RV and its value and how long do you plan to keep it, recoating it is the cheapest way and works good but if you plan to keep it for many more years than full replacement might be best.

A good recoat job can last years.
This is very true .A friend and I both own 1996 MH's with a rubber roof. I re coated mine in 2006 with 1 coat of Kool Seal given to me by another friend because he bought a new MH with a FG roof. That one coat is now almost worn off after 10 years. My other friend has never coated his and his roof is entirely black but still does not leak. There is about an .030 thick top coat of white EPDM that sloughs off with weather and time. The coatings applied either acrylic, latex or EPDM with slow down this process and keep your MH much cooler in the summer than a totally black roof. Knowing what I know now I would give it 2 coats of one of these coatings as soon as the black spots start to show through that top white surface. My roof is now 21 years old and still does not leak and has never been stored inside.

timmac
Explorer
Explorer
It really depends on the age of your RV and its value and how long do you plan to keep it, recoating it is the cheapest way and works good but if you plan to keep it for many more years than full replacement might be best.

A good recoat job can last years.