Norcold model 1200LRIM Friday ammonia smell

[Fleetwood_Coupl]

So from what I read I need to replace the cooling unit. Unit is still working ok. I would rather go with a residential unit. Is there a model out there that will fit the opening with little to no modification of the cabinet?

[Fleetwood_Coupl]

They removed the window over the dinete.

[allbrandauto]

I have a Fleetwood bounder my door opening is 24 1/2 inche installed a Samsung 18.9 fridge when you remove the doors its 24 3/8 went thru works great

[jvanick]

Fleetwood Couple wrote:
Just a update, got the new fridge installed and I think it looks great. Will try and post before and after pictures. The model i went with was a GE model GTE16GSHSS. It required very little modification to be done to the existing opening,(removal of about half inch on the top) total cost for fridge and install labor was $2000. More than i wanted to spend but was on the road and didn't have the extra bodies to help DIY. Verified it runs on the existing inverter (when plugged into the correct outlet)

Edit: wanted to add that the fridge is the best energy star rated on that I could find that would fit (344 kwh), if that is a concern for others. the inside is so much bigger than the original! It was more narrow than the existing fridge, so some matching trim was lucky found in the old stash the RV center had. A gap is necessary for proper ventilation, so that its a good thing. I am so glad I wont be having to defrost the freezer every 6 weeks! and if I want I can have ice-cream in there that will be hard and not soft. So far I am a happy camper..Pics below
Thanks for all the tips and responses I got.

How'd they bring it into your coach?

I have a 2001 Bounder 34D that I'd like to do the same to, but not sure how I'd get it in through the door...

did you remove a window?

[mchero]

Let us know how it does on the electrical side. Thanks for the post/pics!

[Mr_Mark1]

Very nice!

Safe travels,
MM.

[Fleetwood_Coupl]

[Fleetwood_Coupl]

[Fleetwood_Coupl]

Just a update, got the new fridge installed and I think it looks great. Will try and post before and after pictures. The model i went with was a GE model GTE16GSHSS. It required very little modification to be done to the existing opening,(removal of about half inch on the top) total cost for fridge and install labor was $2000. More than i wanted to spend but was on the road and didn't have the extra bodies to help DIY. Verified it runs on the existing inverter (when plugged into the correct outlet)

Edit: wanted to add that the fridge is the best energy star rated on that I could find that would fit (344 kwh), if that is a concern for others. the inside is so much bigger than the original! It was more narrow than the existing fridge, so some matching trim was lucky found in the old stash the RV center had. A gap is necessary for proper ventilation, so that its a good thing. I am so glad I wont be having to defrost the freezer every 6 weeks! and if I want I can have ice-cream in there that will be hard and not soft. So far I am a happy camper..Pics below
Thanks for all the tips and responses I got.

[doc_brown]

I installed a Frigidaire Gallery. Not fancy, two doors, but it was cheap and it fit perfectly. One of my best modifications.

[CA_Traveler]

Fleetwood Couple wrote:
How do I find out if the new fridge will run on the existing PSW inverter? The one I have picked out is a GE model.

PSW should not be a issue and most modern res refers have low power usage.

You may have to add wiring from the inverter. Boondocking, battery capacity and charging may be a concern.

[Fleetwood_Coupl]

Ivylog wrote:
Here is my DIY installation of a 21 cuft Whirlpool refer that came within 1/2" too tall fitting perfectly in the 1200 hole. I had to take the drivers side window out to get it into the motorhome... easy enough to do.

Yes the Samsung is often used and it does not need a PSW inverter as it has D.C. compressors BUT it's 6" taller than a 1200. The DW did not want to loose the drawer underneath so I was able to save it with the Whirlpool.

One of the reasons I put off going residential is because we Boondock often. Amazing how energy efficient an energy star refrigerator is today... 8 amps D.C. Into my PSW inverter or 96 watts when running less than half the time. Would have saved $$$$ if I had given up on my POS NoCold five years ago. Going residential is the best thing I've done to my MH.

Do not even think about fixing or going back with another 1200... Like I did. :S

How do I find out if the new fridge will run on the existing PSW inverter? The one I have picked out is a GE model.

[Fleetwood_Coupl]

Quick update, The fridge finally gave up yesterday afternoon, I fortunately had time to borrow a dorm fridge and put it on a table outside, and eat what wasn't going to fit. Several trips to Home Depot and Lowes with a tape measure. Found the GE 15.5 Model #GTS16GSHSS should slide in with very little mod. Appointment Scheduled with tree way campers for install on 25APR. I will post a pic when done. thanks for all the reply's and ideas.

[Fleetwood_Coupl]

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Fleetwood Couple wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Sorry.........

But you can NOT have an ammonia smell coming from fridge and it still be working correctly.

Cooling unit is under 300 psi......crack in tube allowing ammonia to leak out also allows the hydrogen to leak out and the sodium chromate (yellowish residue)

Coolant solution leak and loss of PSI would cause fridge to QUIT cooling & overheat---high temp switch opens shutting down DC to fridge...no workie


Ammonia smell that then goes away.....that is because ammonia/hydrogen has leaked out and has dissipated (happens quickly)

As I type this fridge should have stopped cooling and shut down IF it had a leak

well I am not sure what to think then, I heard it making ice most of the night and its still cold, maybe the leak somehow plugged itself?

A leak under 300 psi does NOT self heal.

So maybe it was a smell from your batteries, or waste tanks or something else.
But if it was ammonia from that fridge..it would be suffering today of lack of cooling

Ok so the smell came and went until yesterday around 2 pm, then I noticed the freezer started to thaw. Basically it lasted 3 days from the time I first smelled the ammonia, must have been a very small leak and only happened at a certain point in the cycle? Not sure.

[Old-Biscuit]

Fleetwood Couple wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Sorry.........

But you can NOT have an ammonia smell coming from fridge and it still be working correctly.

Cooling unit is under 300 psi......crack in tube allowing ammonia to leak out also allows the hydrogen to leak out and the sodium chromate (yellowish residue)

Coolant solution leak and loss of PSI would cause fridge to QUIT cooling & overheat---high temp switch opens shutting down DC to fridge...no workie


Ammonia smell that then goes away.....that is because ammonia/hydrogen has leaked out and has dissipated (happens quickly)

As I type this fridge should have stopped cooling and shut down IF it had a leak

well I am not sure what to think then, I heard it making ice most of the night and its still cold, maybe the leak somehow plugged itself?

A leak under 300 psi does NOT self heal.

So maybe it was a smell from your batteries, or waste tanks or something else.
But if it was ammonia from that fridge..it would be suffering today of lack of cooling