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Towing a CRV

jonlin
Explorer
Explorer
We just purchased a 2014 Honda CRV to tow behind our Newmar Kountry Star. Where we have our RV serviced they install Ready Brute Elite towing systems. Have always used a Blue Ox and was curious about the Brute. We were also told that the Brute had a built in braking system (surge brakes?) which would eliminate the need to install a separate braking system in the CRV. Questions...

1. Is the Ready Brute Elite towing system a good reliable system?

2. We travel both in Alaska and the Western US and would like to know does this type braking system (surge brakes) cause a problem when going down hill. We have heard that sometimes when going downhill the brakes will engage on the toad???

Thanks for the information...
John
8 REPLIES 8

PandS
Explorer
Explorer
We're in the process of getting our 2013 CRV ready to tow behind our Newmar Ventana that we'll be picking up in June. We also chose the Ready Brute Elite with Blue Ox tow bar, and had that installed last week. Yesterday, I built the switch shown in the thread below to kill fuse 19 when towing, instead of having to pull the fuse every trip. I can't believe how easy it was to do, how well it works, and how professional it looks.

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/26-racks-hitches-towing/51441-towing-crv-build-switch-pull-fuse....

Susan

Dale_Traveling
Explorer II
Explorer II
Same setup as the OP but an older CRV and a gas coach. The only problems I have had with the bar were self induced and quickly corrected. Quick and easy setup and very reliable.

With a downhill run I'll get an indication of the brake application only if I am on the coach brakes or a quick flash when I down downshift the transmission. No braking action when the coach is holding a steady or slow speed reduction such as coasting to a stop light. About the only time I see the brake indication on the CRV is when I'm actively braking the coach. The bar has a heavy spring that first must be overcome before the system becomes effective. Slow speed reductions is not enough momentum to activate the system.

Rather than using the braking action switch built into the bar I wired the dash indicator into the brake light switch at the CRV brake pedal. The connection point is before the tail light diodes so the dash indicator lights with the CRV brake lights rather than when the tow bar is active. Brake light signal from the coach to the CRV lights does not light the indicator.

Brake cable routing was simple. The bumper end is just below the front licence plate so I tuck the loop behind the plate when not in use. From there I routed the cable along the left side of the engine compartment under the battery and other such to a spot at the fire wall below the steering shaft. Plenty of room for the bends.

With everything connected and the towbar arms locked the cable from the bar to the toad should have a bit of slack. You don't want guitar string tight. Easy slack setup is when the arms are unlock and fully compressed you should have just enough slack to disconnect the bar cable from the toad.

For more info they have a YouTube video detailing installation on a 2014 CRV. Click HERE to view.
2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53

njtony
Explorer
Explorer
Another thug to remember is to pump the break Pedro 3 4 times before driving. If not you Wil get a surprise like I did and runed 4 tires. The brakes locked up at 70 miles an hour all by them selves. Has something to do with pressure in the cars system. With in a sec mode the antilock brakesystem does not work .I flat spotted all 4 tires and left a lot of rubber on the road. Talk about a scary experance !!!

kiloo9
Explorer
Explorer
About the cable attachment to activate the breaks on your toad, cable will need to be attached to the break pedal, you will need to drill a hole in the fire wall directly aiming at the break pedal and install assembly one on the fire wall and the other on the break pedal, both provided on the kid for installation to the break pedal.
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JohnnyT
Explorer II
Explorer II
moved from class A forum
2004 40DS02 Travel Supreme ISL 400
Jeep Grand Cherokee, Ford F150
M&G Brake & Break Away
Blue Ox Aventa LX Tow bar

tinkerer
Explorer
Explorer
Not trying to derail this topic, but I have a Ready Brute tow bar for my CRV but have not hooked up the cable to activate the brakes yet. Any advice out there on where to route the cable?

kiloo9
Explorer
Explorer
I have 06 Honda CRV and have used Ready Brake (surge brakes) system for ten tears with out any problems, considering your question about the brakes applying on the toad when going down the hill "yes" it does and it is design this way, the toad will have the tendency to free wheel forward due to momentum between vehicles going down the hill, as it moves forward it would have the tendency to apply its own brakes which in turn will hold back and separate it self causing no problems and will resume normal breaking operations.
"Freedom is not Free"
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Dutch_12078
Explorer
Explorer
We've towed about 50,000 miles with our ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system and it works fine for us. We have had zero tow bar problems so far. We use a Blue Ox base plate with it because we like the ease of removing the tabs and the clean look of the front of the car when not towing.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate