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Adding a valve on the toilet?

plasticmaster
Explorer
Explorer
The toilet in my camper uses a lot of water every time we flush. We typically camp at state parks without a sewer connection, and the black tank gets full quickly because of the large amount of water from flushing. Has anyone ever put some sort of valve on the supply line going to the toilet? The idea is to turn down the amount of water going into the toilet so that the black tank doesn't fill so quickly. If so, I need a recommendation on what type of valve. Thanks.
22 REPLIES 22

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
I added a cheap plastic ball valve with Barb fittings years ago and it works great . The next thing I'm going to do is add a ball valve upstream of the spray down because it uses way more water than necessary also . Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
2008 Sunnybrook Titan 30 RKFS Morryde and Disc brakes
WILL ROGERS NEVER MET JOE BIDEN!

westend
Explorer
Explorer
If you do add in a supply line valve, you may want a "Full Flow" ball valve. I put one on every supply line in my trailer, not for limiting water but for event of a fixture failing. If a faucet leaks or the toilet breaks, I can still operate the rest of the fresh water system.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
Bill.Satellite wrote:

It's nothing more than learning a new routine.


I bet this would not be a problem if operating off the pump, or at least not as much of a problem.

Maybe his valve idea isn't bad after all because any permanent restriction in the line probably would cause there to not be enough water with the low pressure pump.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

SteveAE
Explorer
Explorer
Hi,
I did this very thing with a Sharkbite valve.
A great low priced mod that really helps reduce water usage (we use recycled shower and sink water) and increases the number of days we can go between dumping the black tank.

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
plasticmaster wrote:
Just to clarify, this is our second camper. My first camper and this one both have 30 gallon black tanks. I never trust the sensors to tell if it is full. I shine a flash light down the toilet to tell. We're a family of four. My last camper, we could go around 8 or 9 days before the black tank would get full. This camper is about 4 days. Exact same toilet usage practices, and yes, I make sure I have a full black tank before dumping it. The difference is that for the quick moment that you press the pedal, a tremendous amount of water goes through the toilet, whereas only a small amount went through on my old camper. And yes, I'm using a pressure regulator on the park water spigot before it comes into the camper. Basically, I want to dial down the amount of water that goes into the toilet so that it behaves like the toilet in my old camper. I hope this makes sense.


Are you not able to tell the folks stepping on the pedal to not step as long? It sounds (to me) that you have a very efficient system and it's just a matter of making the necessary adjustments on your part without any hardware changes on the campers part. It you used to fill the 30 Gal. black tank in 8 or 9 days then you should also be able to go 8 or 9 days in your new coach with a 30 Gal. black tank. It's nothing more than learning a new routine.
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Here's one at Home Depot. A little expensive but high quality. SharkBite Pex valve No special tools needed.
All you have to do is cut the tubing very straight and clean (razor blade works good), slide the small white pieces supplied with the valve inside the tubing and then push the whole tube into the Shark Bite fitting.

There are simpler, cheaper plastic valves too - that's what I installed many years ago but I'm having trouble finding those.

If your anywhere near Bothell Wa. I have a spare you can have.

EDIT: Found the one I used on Amazon: Flair-it pex vavle

This one is very easy to use. Simply cut the pipe straight, slip the collars down the ends of the pipe and then shove the two ends of the pipe onto the Flair-It fitting. Use a hair drier to heat up the Pex pipe and it will easily slide over the barbs on the fitting. Then snug down the collars.
I've had this one installed for 7 or 8 years.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer II
Explorer II
Dutch_12078 wrote:
Watts, SeaTech, Gatorbite, Sharkbite, etc., all make quick connect inline valves that only require a sharp utility knife for installation. Any of the large home improvement stores will have one brand or another.


I installed a 'shut off' valve on toilet supply line...not to reduce flow but to stop flow if needed to work on toilet (rest of RV still would have water!)

1/2" PEX.....
Cut it into and installed a Sharkbite valve.
Simple snap on ---no tools required except my hands.
'C' clip removal tool needed to take valve off PEX
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
BarneyS wrote:
The amount of water per flush is determined by how much you put in the bowl to begin with and how long you hold down the flush pedal.


That would be my assumption too......but it might not be correct in his case.

If his toilet is a different design so that he can NOT control the amount of water in a flush......then replacing the toilet with a different model might be the best solution. And not all that expensive either.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

Dutch_12078
Explorer
Explorer
Watts, SeaTech, Gatorbite, Sharkbite, etc., all make quick connect inline valves that only require a sharp utility knife for installation. Any of the large home improvement stores will have one brand or another.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

tinstartrvlr
Explorer
Explorer
A quick internet search found a company that sells this stuff so they have lots of pics.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/PEX-Valves-21837000

You do need a special tool and crimps to work with pex though. A good investment if you have pex plumbing.

tinstartrvlr
Explorer
Explorer
If you have a newer camper with PEX plumbing, HD and the other big store have pex valves. Just have to find the right size and add it to the incoming line. Then you can open it or close it to allow as much water as you like to reach the toilet.

plasticmaster
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you for your helpful reply, ScottG. Could you tell me which valve you used, or maybe a link to it?

plasticmaster
Explorer
Explorer
Just to clarify, this is our second camper. My first camper and this one both have 30 gallon black tanks. I never trust the sensors to tell if it is full. I shine a flash light down the toilet to tell. We're a family of four. My last camper, we could go around 8 or 9 days before the black tank would get full. This camper is about 4 days. Exact same toilet usage practices, and yes, I make sure I have a full black tank before dumping it. The difference is that for the quick moment that you press the pedal, a tremendous amount of water goes through the toilet, whereas only a small amount went through on my old camper. And yes, I'm using a pressure regulator on the park water spigot before it comes into the camper. Basically, I want to dial down the amount of water that goes into the toilet so that it behaves like the toilet in my old camper. I hope this makes sense.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
I did exactly what you describe, installed a valve in the supply line. Our TT toilet uses a lot of water and this greatly reduces the waste when dry camping. We use other facilities for #2 when doing this.
Since RV toilets don't have a tank, restricting the inflow saves water.

There's also a failure mode where the toilets inlet valve will leak and continue to fill the bowl. When this happened during a trip I was glad I had the supply line valve. Just had to turn it off between uses.