H2O2 Whitening of yellowed plastic (Pics! ?)

[DiskDoctr]

I read about using hydrogen peroxide to whiten yellowed plastic and thought we'd give it a try on our new to us TT.

We experimented on the stove fan vent. It is inexpensive and we had planned to replace it and the outside door trim. They are the most yellowed and make the camper look a bit dated. We replaced them on our previous camper and were well pleased with the improvement.

Both parts started nearly identical in color.



We used the 40% paste/gel from Sally's Beauty Supply, applied it with an old toothbrush (wear neoprene gloves!) covered it with Saran Wrap, and left it sit in the sun for 2 days. Rinsed it off and tried again, being more careful to avoid shadows for an even effect.

I've read that UV light is much more effective on the H2O2 than sunlight (here in the shadowy countryside). Having proven to ourselves that this treatment does work, we are going to invest in one to speed things up.

Our plans are to do the door window trim, then a Fantastic Fan I pulled from one of our older campers (new but then didn't use it and it yellowed terribly), then some (interior) ceiling vent trim, then the big one: The tub and shower surround.

Anyone who has tried this, please post up your tips and pics!

We'll take more as we progress.

Edit: Maybe someone else can get better pics? The vent is almost new looking, but the color balance on my cell doesn't show it well 😞

Another pic:

We do notice a little irregularity in the very smooth surface. Maybe from the Saran Wrap, maybe it was there? In any case, we are going to be more careful to seal the part but not have the plastic laying against the surface.

It looks like it will just polish off?

[DiskDoctr]

STBRetired wrote:
Think the biggest concern for the shower would be surface preparation. You would need to get absolutely ALL of any soap / hard water residue off of the surface before you spray it. Once you get it clean enough, the Krylon would be waterproof.

Thanks! Sorry I missed this reply earlier.

Some results of painting the door window frame and Fantastic fan shroud:

White with clear over it.



Just white so far








It was getting late and my cell phone doesn't pick up white/yellows very well, but I think you can get the idea.

[STBRetired]

Think the biggest concern for the shower would be surface preparation. You would need to get absolutely ALL of any soap / hard water residue off of the surface before you spray it. Once you get it clean enough, the Krylon would be waterproof.

[DiskDoctr]

The painting with Fusion was a GREAT idea, thanks!!!

So far I painted the stove vent and inside roof vent liners and they have turned out great.

As soon as the weather breaks for a day I will remove and paint the door window plastic frame.

I am also going to paint my Fantastic fan shroud before installing it in this camper.

I'll snag a few pics when I get a chance. For now I just wanted to say I really appreciate the suggestion 😉

Anyone know what I can use to paint the shower surround and tub? Also yellowed from sunlight and age. I don't know if the Fusion will be waterproof and not flake off?

[DiskDoctr]

harley4275 wrote:
One can did the exhaust vent, fridge access panel, door window trim,out shower door and slinkie storage door.2 coats on each.

Thanks 😉

So I should have enough for my inside vent frames, too. Cool.

[Acampingwewillg]

I did change all my Thin-Lites over to LED strips and a couple of LED replacement tubes I got in Quartzsire. Just looking to clean them up a bit but I must admit, I really like the clear lenses more..we'll see. Thanks

[harley4275]

One can did the exhaust vent, fridge access panel, door window trim,out shower door and slinkie storage door.2 coats on each.

[DiskDoctr]

So what do you think, one 12oz can is enough for the vent and door trim?

One coat or two?

If it works well for me, I'll likely move to do other parts and order more paint.

I ordered two cans of Satin Dover White, be here Monday.

[deltabravo]

harley4275 wrote:
Easiest for vent or anything attached to camper is to tape off and spray with Krylon paint made for plastic. For door trim simply unscrew it and spray paint it

Ditto.

Krylon Fusion works wonders, and the discoloration won't return like it will on bare plastic.

My vent was badly discolored. It is the same exact style as the OP's.
I replaced it, and painted the new one before installing it.

About 5 years ago I painted the door trim on my 2010 model year truck camper. It still looks perfect.

[Gdetrailer]

Acampingwewillgo wrote:
Anyone try this whitening technique on the "yellowing" of the Thin-Lite lenses? I'm ready to buy the clear lenses for the old fixtures but if this would work on the opaque....might give it a try.

Might work for a short time, but will not prevent the yellowing from happening again..

Reason for this is fluorescent bulbs give off a bunch of UV along with the visible light.. The plastic lens absorbs the UV and filters it from your eyes.. The UV is what causes the plastic to change color..

You can change your Thinlites over to LEDs which do not give off as much UV.. One of the popular mods now days is to buy LED strips and stick them inside of the old housing..

[Gdetrailer]

DiskDoctr wrote:
Thanks.

Have you tried the Fusion Clear ? Thinking for UV protection and a "poor man's clear coat" over top of the white paint

Ever use it on the Bath? Rust-Oleum 280882 Specialty Tub and Tile Spray PaintRust-Oleum 280882 Specialty Tub and Tile Spray Paint ?

Never tried either one.

The Fusion clear may slow the yellowing if it has some UV protection in it.. Not much downside, if it did yellow you could paint over it with the correct white color paint.

Spray painting something as large as a bathtub with rattle cans and getting a good professional looking job would be one heck of a challenge..

I think I would hand that job over to professional bathtub re finishers.. Rattle cans and overspray go hand in hand, spray paints often dry to fast which means as you go back and forth with the can you get uneven coats of dry overspray.

It would take quite a few 12 oz cans to do a bathtub and surround, most likely having a professional refinisher do the job wouldn't cost all that much over all those rattle cans plus your time.

[DiskDoctr]

Acampingwewillgo wrote:
Anyone try this whitening technique on the "yellowing" of the Thin-Lite lenses? I'm ready to buy the clear lenses for the old fixtures but if this would work on the opaque....might give it a try.

You mean on the overhead lights? I don't have any yellowed ones to try, but the stuff is $2 for 4oz. Really cheap to experiment 😉

Just be sure to wear good quality neoprene or other gloves. It's strong enough to be harmful to your skin.

I bought two 16 oz bottles of 40% for about $16

[Acampingwewillg]

Anyone try this whitening technique on the "yellowing" of the Thin-Lite lenses? I'm ready to buy the clear lenses for the old fixtures but if this would work on the opaque....might give it a try.

[DiskDoctr]

Thanks.

Have you tried the Fusion Clear ? Thinking for UV protection and a "poor man's clear coat" over top of the white paint

Ever use it on the Bath? Rust-Oleum 280882 Specialty Tub and Tile Spray PaintRust-Oleum 280882 Specialty Tub and Tile Spray Paint ?

[Gdetrailer]

DiskDoctr wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
Fusion White CAN BE FOUND HERE, Sold and shipped from Amazon..

Is Dover White the correct color?

May or may not be the "correct" white color, BUT, if it isn't you can paint over top of the Fusion with the correct white color..

In a nut shell you are using the Fusion paint to act as a primer, Fusion bonds to the plastic and then the next coat of paint can be pretty much any other paint that can bond to the Fusion.

I have used this method multiple times and not had any issues with Fusion or the other paint letting go.

Back when Fusion came out you only had two choices in color, white or black, now they do have variety of colors but not all will match every possibility in colors..