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Rebuilding a Class C Jamboree, have many questions

MrEven
Explorer
Explorer
Brand new here so please forgive me if this is the wrong place to post in these forums.
I am new here and new to RVs, but I've worked as an automotive technician for some time and am comfortable with the mechanical workings. I picked up a 1984 Jamboree for under $400 because it's suffered from very extensive water damage. I am planning on gutting everything and doing a rebuild. I have a few questions I hope you might all be able to help with:

1) What size wood should I use for the wall studs, roof trusses, and floor joists? (2x4, 1x3, etc)

2) Is there a preference of one type of wood versus another? (Azdel vs luan vs pressure treated, etc)

3) Once new studs and roof trusses are placed what sort of epoxy/glue/etc should I use to bond them to the exterior wall? I've seen some people recommend Liquid Nails or 3M boating composite but I want to make sure I use the right material. I believe the exterior wall is fiberglass/laminate.

4) Can I use closed cell spray foam insulation? I've read some people say it will crumble apart while driving and others say it holds just fine. The very high R-value makes me want to use closed cell but if it crumbles apart then it's not a real option.

5) Should I rerun all wires/cables current found in the walls?

6) Is regular plywood or particle board ok to place over the studs and insulation or is something else recommended? Is Azdel the wood-of-choice?

I know this is a lot of work and I'm excited to do it. I look forward to your suggestions. Thank you.
25 REPLIES 25

jjrbus
Explorer
Explorer
I did a bus conversion years ago and would love to redo the RV part of my Toyota mini, it is not in the cards at this time in life.

Simply copy what is there using what you have for patterns. A big mistake many make is improving everything, thicker wood, bigger this and that, welding more bracing on. What they end up with is an over weight RV. Hard to get moving hard to stop! Keep in mind what you have has lasted decades.

There is a GVWR that should be kept in mind when redoing.
The gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), or gross vehicle mass (GVM) is the maximum operating weight/mass of a vehicle as specified by the manufacturer including the vehicle's chassis, body, engine, engine fluids, fuel, accessories, driver, passengers and cargo but excluding that of any trailers.

So the 3/4 inch plywood roof, granite counter tops and floors with a 150 gallon gas tank ideas are not practical.

Ideal wood to use for framing would be white oak, holds fasteners well and is somewhat moisture resistant. Cedar looks like a great choice but does not hold fasteners well.

The dry rot you see in the RV is actually a fungus. If I was redoing one I would treat any wood I used with a fungicide. Read up on it, there are commercial ones available, I would coat mine with anti freeze.

Ethylene glycol and propylene glycol are clear liquids used in antifreeze and deicing solutions. Exposure to large amounts of Ethylene Glycol can damage the kidneys, heart, and nervous system. Propylene Glycol is generally regarded as safe for use in food. Antifreeze that is sold as "Earth Friendly", "Environmentally Safe", etc are generally based on Propylene...Make Sure You Buy The Propylene Glycol, NOT the Ethylene!!!

Will be following your journey. Jim

jjrbus
Explorer
Explorer
I did a bus conversion years ago and would love to redo the RV part of my Toyota mini, it is not in the cards at this time in life.

Simply copy what is there using what you have for patterns. A big mistake many make is improving everything, thicker wood, bigger this and that, welding more bracing on. What they end up with is an over weight RV. Hard to get moving hard to stop! Keep in mind what you have has lasted decades.

There is a GVWR that should be kept in mind when redoing.
The gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), or gross vehicle mass (GVM) is the maximum operating weight/mass of a vehicle as specified by the manufacturer including the vehicle's chassis, body, engine, engine fluids, fuel, accessories, driver, passengers and cargo but excluding that of any trailers.

So the 3/4 inch plywood roof, granite counter tops and floors with a 150 gallon gas tank ideas are not practical.

Ideal wood to use for framing would be white oak, holds fasteners well and is somewhat moisture resistant. Cedar looks like a great choice but does not hold fasteners well.

The dry rot you see in the RV is actually a fungus. If I was redoing one I would treat any wood I used with a fungicide. Read up on it, there are commercial ones available, I would coat mine with anti freeze.

Ethylene glycol and propylene glycol are clear liquids used in antifreeze and deicing solutions. Exposure to large amounts of Ethylene Glycol can damage the kidneys, heart, and nervous system. Propylene Glycol is generally regarded as safe for use in food. Antifreeze that is sold as "Earth Friendly", "Environmentally Safe", etc are generally based on Propylene...Make Sure You Buy The Propylene Glycol, NOT the Ethylene!!!

Will be following your journey. Jim

MrEven
Explorer
Explorer
Update:

I've completed removing the carpet and the smell is way better. I've turned my attention to the roof as I need to prevent further water intrusion prior to rebuilding the interior. Here's a video from the roof- your thoughts and opinions are greatly welcome.

Video of the roof: https://youtu.be/sUa6-dDjSdk

MrEven
Explorer
Explorer
https://youtu.be/dYmY-pTukgg

westend
Explorer
Explorer
The best thing to start with is to replicate what you have with new wood.

The wall frame of a typical RV is attached onto the subfloor and may even be installed on top of the floor covering (vinyl, carpet). If there has been water into the interior, you can bet that the walls have some damage, also. There may even be some floor damage. there may also be rafter damage like rotted ends of rafters or separation of roof rafter pieces.

After you remove all the appliances, the built-in fixtures, and the wall/ceiling paneling, you will have a real good idea of what needs replacing. Typically, roof rafters are attached onto the wall frame top-plate. This means you will want to repair any wall frames and then repair the roof. The subfloor can be repaired by cutting close to the wall and then chiseling out the remainder underneath the wall. A new floor sheathing piece can then be slid under the wall.

Look at the thread in my signature line, "The Cowboy/Hilton". It is all pictured and discussed in that thread.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

MrEven
Explorer
Explorer
Who can offer me some suggestions on how to put up studs and frames? Do I put up wall studs first and then place the roof crossbeams or start with the roof or with with floor? I've seen home construction where they build it on the ground and then lift it up against the wall but I don't think I have space for that inside the motorhome. Should I do 8" or 16" spaced studs or whatever will give me maximum support? Thank you.

MrEven
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

I think you need a friend who is an experienced builder.

MrEven wrote:
I have zero construction experience so I'm trying to figure it out as I go along.


I would love to have that. Unfortunately I don't and until/unless I do I'm reaching out here and also watching many, many how-to videos.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
fulltimedaniel wrote:
free radical wrote:
Ive heard that presure treated lumber should never be used inside,,not sure why,maybe it may give of some bad fumes?

When Im using plywood I make sure its exterior rated,,in case of another leak it wont rot,,not right away anyway


I would just use a good grade of Marine Plywood.
One issue with genuine Marine plywood is that it is heavy and $$$$. Also, not really called for on the inside of a trailer or other RV. If a remodeling is taking place, the owner would make sure that there is no water ingress, when done.

FWIW, when I completed my restoration, I had a single leak that was identified. I did a pressure test and found quite a few more. I taped all the roof seams with Eternabond tapes and have had no leaks in the five years since.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

fulltimedaniel
Explorer
Explorer
free radical wrote:
Ive heard that presure treated lumber should never be used inside,,not sure why,maybe it may give of some bad fumes?

When Im using plywood I make sure its exterior rated,,in case of another leak it wont rot,,not right away anyway


I would just use a good grade of Marine Plywood.

Bob_E_
Explorer
Explorer
There is also a good thread over in the "vintage" section on irv2.com called "Total Rebuild". Lots of good pics and descriptions. It's over 400 pages. I plan to use a lot of his ideas and techniques on my build.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

I think you need a friend who is an experienced builder.

MrEven wrote:
I have zero construction experience so I'm trying to figure it out as I go along.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
I gutted/restored an old Starcraft. The build thread is in my signature line, The Cowboy/Hilton. Plenty of discussion and pictures in that thread.

To answer some of your questions:

1) Use the same size wood that is found in the rest of the frame. There is no standardization.

2)Azdel is a plastic composite and you'll pay a lot for it, if you can even buy it. I used conventional SPF lumber for most of the frame. I think I had a couple of treated boards that found their way into top plates. It is not advised to use it in interiors but I sealed everything up real tight. For interior paneling I used Luan board, sealed on both sides and all edges.

3)Your siding appears to be aluminum but may be fiberglass. I used about 40 tubes of construction adhesive and various sealants. Most framing members were glued and screwed together. Construction adhesive will bond most anything. I have aluminum siding so chose to use a 1" fiberglass batt against the siding. That allowed for in-wall wires and a place for moisture to egress. I followed that up with a 1" extruded foam board in the wall cavities.

4)#2 construction grade spray foam is the best insulation you can buy. It will not "crumble". It is also about the most expensive. I chose to cut and friction fit foam board. I also used a 1/4" foam board across the studs and a poly vapor barrier. That two weeks of work was totally worth it. I enjoy my comfortable trailer every day.

5)Yes, I would plan to replace the wiring. You will be able to install a better quality of work and a better layout than what a mfg does.

6)No particle board, please. That would include Masonite or other paneling made from wood particles. The inside of a trailer can get very humid and condensation could destroy particle board. As mentioned, I used Luan board, mostly for it's finish aspects under a clear sealant. A good grade of plywood would work as well and if you plan to paint the interior, plywood would be a good choice.

If I had a couple of tips to give, they would be: Draw out plans for wiring, plumbing, and fixture locations. They don't have to be architectural grade but a drawn plan that lists materials will mean that you don't have to rework an area because of poor schedule or forgetfulness.

Second, allow enough continuous time to complete the RV restoration. There are a lot of half-completed RV projects out there. I did take breaks in the schedule to accomplish work but, for the most part, stayed at it until done (if there ever is a "done", lol). It ate up a good chunk of 6 months.

These projects are always worthwhile because a guy can end up with a result that is customized to his use. If you do the insulation as good as possible and are able to replace most windows with Low-E glass, you will be astounded on the difference in comfort and sound. I can barely hear traffic outside my trailer and keeping cool or warm is an easy task.

Good luck and let's see that pile of debris!
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

donn0128
Explorer
Explorer
Metal will be harder to work with. Wood may be suspectavle to rot, but lets be honest how many more years will this thing be really useable? Wood will be cheaper, easier to work with. Metal will require some custom fasteners to make it work worth a hoot.

Bruce_Brown
Moderator
Moderator
Here is the link to the video;

Camper Intro Video

Here is a TT I bought in about the same condition - it was a mess. 400 hours later, with 395 of them being just a blast, it turned out pretty darn well.

Camper Rehab
There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910