Linoleum sheet vs planks vs floating wood plank flooring?

[Loving_God_s_Co]

I am asking this for my sister who is wanting to replace her kitchen/bath flooring in her class A. She has been told everything from the wood plank flooring buckling because of movement to the linoleum planking curling up because of cold to ...... She is unsure of what to use at this point. Can anyone share their experiences? Thank you!!

[joraz]

In our last rig we used a product called Karndean. It is loose lay. i.e. you don't affix it to the floor. It's used in a lot of commercial applications. It's pricey but a great product. I'm going to do the same in our current rig. The photo makes the color look uneven.
jor

[Naio]

Wow, your decor is awesome! I have always loved the combo of black, white, and light blue.

[LifeInsideJack]

Just for fun we went with 5/8" foam interlocking squares. Easy to clean, easy to install and fun to walk on. Also, I can remove them when big things spill or to clean the sand out from under them after a beach weekend.

[westend]

I pulled all the flooring and installed this cheap (Lumber Liquidators) vinyl engineered plank a few years ago. It is fairly durable.



I have a 1 1/2" riser under my toilet so installing around that was painless.

[myredracer]

Watch the thickness of the flooring relative to the toilet flange. Using some thicknesses can result in improper sealing of the toilet. An ordinary wax gasket can be used sometimes or an extender may work (you must re & re the foam gasket anyway). Sometimes cabinet doors can be really close to the floor and need to be moved upwards. I had to do this on a previous TT when only using 1/8" think laminate. Bathroom door could be affected too and need trimming off some at the bottom. Don't glue sheet vinyl to the sub-floor. Thick laminate will need a transition strip at the door and may be a nuisance. If using the thin vinyl laminate stuff, I'd only use the interlocking type and it needs to be fully free-floating and will need an expansion gap all around it and a baseboard strip of some sort to cover the gap.

[2Bargos]

I've installed "floating flooring"
Wood laminated flooring in three different campers now and yet to have a problem with it.
Just have to leave enough space on the ends for it it be able to move around

[buc1980]

I install engineering wood for 4 years and I don't have any problem.

[Playtime_II]

Yup. My allure peel/stick has some "end" edge gaps. Still within the glue area some water cant penetrate at the gaps.

[Ron3rd]

Haven't tried it, but Allure makes a click and lock product that supposedly eliminates the problem the member above posted. Regular Allure just overlaps an edge with a peel and stick adhesive. I've heard this can separate in some instances. The locking type is the way to go IMO if you go vinyl. Sounds like the Pergo product is great too.

[TNGW1500SE]

I installed sheet vinyl in my first house. That was a pain. You have to make the cuts long and then trim it to fit. Really hard but it looked good. Then a month later a chair fell over and cut it. The puppy found the tear and that was that. No more floor. Start over! Replaced that with ceramic tile but that a lot of weight in a RV and RV's move!

A while back I installed Alure in my new house. 6 months later the seams opened up and after one year it went to the dump. JUNK! Never again!

I installed top of the line Pergo (in the house) in it's place and it's been great. So much so that I installed the same floor in the RV. Looks good and really happy with it.

I didn't glue or screw it anywhere so it floats. Used 1/4 round all around the edges that matched. I expect it to last the life of the RV and if somehow it gets damaged, I have some extra pieces so it can be repaired. It comes apart if you need to replace a piece.

Note that Pergo now makes a waterproof product as well. It's hard and will wear out some saw blades.

If you're handy, it's a DIY and easier that sheet vinyl. Lasts forever!

[westend]

skrams wrote:
How do you install sheet vinyl? I assume the point is to do it in one piece, but I don't see how it's manouverable.

There are two basic ways to get the sheet vinyl to accomodate the floor it covers: 1)measure for rough cuts, allowing an inch or so of extra material against all edges. The vinyl sheet is then creased where it abuts a wall or fixture and is trimmed in place. 2) Make a template (pattern) and cut the sheet before installation. There are very few installations that I have used a template. Typically, I would use red rosin paper, cut it short of the edges and mark the template with a square, transferring that line plus the width of the square onto the sheet to cut. If there are many obstacles, this is the method of choice.

For just general placement, the vinyl sheet can be folded gently so that it can be unfurled into position. It helps to anchor the sheet with a loaded tool box or some weight.

If you buy a tightly rolled remnant of sheet vinyl (typical), unroll it and let it sit in the sun for a short time. Make sure you clean the back off before installation.

[Naio]

You get it warm! It comes rolled up. Stick the roll in the bathroom or any small room, crank up the heat, and leave it for an hour or two.

[skrams]

How do you install sheet vinyl? I assume the point is to do it in one piece, but I don't see how it's manouverable.

[Cummins12V98]

LVT