driving my new class c

[Danford50]

I drove my new rig home today, it was a 80 miles trip back home, I noticed that it felt like the front of the truck was wandering or it felt loose has anyone felt that in there class c and if so could you tell me how you fixed it.

[j-d]

geeman53 wrote:
Bilstien shocks all around AND a Roadmaster steering stabilizer cured our rough ride.

Is the Roadmaster stabilizer a Model RSS-C? If so, it's their competitor to Safe-T-Plus.

As you read these posts about steering enhancements:

1. The OEM from Ford, aftermarket from Monroe, Bilstein and others, are DAMPERS. They look like a shock absorber mounted horizontally, maybe with a boot to protect the rod. They take "jiggle" out of the steering wheel and reduce "bump steer" from irregularities in the road. They do NOT help keep the steering on center.

2. Then there are Centering Devices like SteerSafe This collection of brackets and springs is installed at both front wheels. The springs pull the steering back toward center. They help absorb impacts that can cause bump steer (SteerSafe brags on keeping you from losing control with a blowout). But they DO NOT incorporate Hydraulic Dampening but IF (and I don't know this answer) the OEM or aftermarket Damper isn't in the way of SteerSafe, you could leave the Damper in place.

3. Then these are examples of the ones I will call STABILIZERS:
Safe T Plus has hydraulics and a pair of springs. One in Push, one in Pull as steering gets off center. At center, both push to hold it there. There is also hydraulic dampening Silver denotes the "140" series used on Class C's, with the appropriate bracket kit. The OEM Damper brackets will NOT work with S-T-P. "140" means that many pounds pushing steering toward center. This is the one the Henderson's Line Up people recommend and say the result is like increasing Caster to 5*.
Then the Roadmaster RSS RSSC is the Class C item, RSSA being for Class A, and probably with more centering pressure. It has hydraulic dampening, requires its own bracket kit like S-T-P does. Difference, it uses one spring that works in both Push and Pull, to force steering toward center. And the spring is visible.
Henderson's is heavy into Roadmaster products, but in this case they like S-T-P. The RSS is usually available at a lower price than S-T-P, just remember to price the bracket kit too.

[geeman53]

Bilstien shocks all around AND a Roadmaster steering stabilizer cured our rough ride.

[mlo166]

Good job bea. My 2005 e450 Coach House wandered when I first drove it home *200 miles. And, it drove crappy! A new caster alignment and installation of a "steer-straight" assembly (abt $300) solved the problem, along with properly calculated tire pressures and the ride-rite air bags adjusted for my particular rig. Any new Class C RV owner probably doesn't realize that Ford (or other makes) is notorious with the chassis being delivered to RV factory's yard without knowing the actual application for the chassis, I.e. could be a 23', 27', 30', etc...and therefore, not knowing how the chassis will be loaded or modified, it's drivability wil vary. It is not the fault of the RV manufacturer. I known a new GM Class C 32' rig steer fine and a 28' Ford steer fine - but my 23' did not steer fine! Point: adjust the caster for the rig (shop job), adjust the proper tire pressures for your rig's weight, install independent L-R air bag suspension helpers, then test ride it. If not satisfied (as was I), install an aftermarket (Ford or DOT approved) steering or front suspension kit to solve the particular dissatisfaction of its drivability. Now, after 6 round-robin trips from GA to SoCal, it is not unusual to drive 12 hours a day (fuel and food stops as needed) and not be exhausted when wallydocking!

I believe the way the RV drives is the top priority for the owner because it will determine the RV driver's attitude when driving it!

Just... keep it under 90!

Tom Morgan
Rhonda Morgan
Concord, Georgia
2005 Platinum Coach House 231xlsd
(visit us on facebook)

[Bea_PA]

Ours wandered and was loose in the front end. Had it aligned and caster was changed, weighed and correct tire pressure for wt. drives like a dream.

[Bea_PA]

O

[Sam_Spade]

Ponderosa wrote:
I'd venture to say that what you are experiencing is perfectly normal handling for a Class C.

IF.....you have an un-modified Ford E 350/450 chassis, the wandering is NOT "normal", although they all seem to come from the RV factory that way.

IT IS FIXABLE. The difference is amazing.
It makes driving safer and less stressful.

I was skeptical too at first but now I know that you don't have to live with it.

[Ponderosa]

I'd venture to say that what you are experiencing is perfectly normal handling for a Class C. Whenever I get in mine for a trip, it always feels sloppy. It's the nature of the beast. After a day or so on the road, the fine little reactions needed to drive it sort of develop in your head and muscles. Driving it requires less constant and conscious attention to the handling. In other words, it gets automatic. Till the next trip.

[Sam_Spade]

Bordercollie wrote:


You may learn to "live with" typical handling and harsh ride issues.

If you have an E350/450 and it wanders going down a straight and level road with no other vehicles around......there is NO reason that you should try to "live with" that.

The alignment fix is detailed in the above link.
It really DOES work.

It will not, of course, "fix" the large side profile that gets pushed around by cross winds.

Then....the advice about going 55 is fine on a secondary road where the speed limit is not above 60 but that is generally BAD advice on an Interstate where the limit is 70 and the prevailing speed is 75.
I get along just fine around 65 in the right lane where I belong.
Going 20 below the flow of traffic is asking for trouble.

[ron_dittmer]

On the subject of tire pressure, you might be interested in reading my evaluation of tire gauges HERE. What I thought was my most trusted tire gauge was in-fact reading 9psi high, meaning I was putting in 9 psi TOO LITTLE air.

[TexasNative]

Agreed, thanks for clarifying. I guess my point was to point out to other newbies like myself the importance of waiting until tires are cool to fill...since they increase so much on the road.

I've seen posts that inadvertently leave that out, which could easily guide folks to air up at the station after weighing.

[pauldub]

TexasNative wrote:
I'm relatively new to this game as well, but how come most/any folks don't mention the fact that if you're weighing your rig at a station, that means you drove it, which means you're getting an inaccurate/higher reading in your tires?

So you would conceivably be setting your psi incorrectly...since you're supposed to do it with cold tires.

You're weighing the motor home and the weight of it doesn't change because the tires are hot, only the internal tire pressure changes. You take the weight data and compare it to the tire load chart to determine the cold tire pressure. You don't adjust the tire pressure until after the tires are cool again.

[TexasNative]

I'm relatively new to this game as well, but how come most/any folks don't mention the fact that if you're weighing your rig at a station, that means you drove it, which means you're getting an inaccurate/higher reading in your tires?

So you would conceivably be setting your psi incorrectly...since you're supposed to do it with cold tires.

[Bordercollie]

Almost all RV's tend to wander from cross-winds, passing trucks, dips in the road surface, etc. You can improve things with proper air pressure, and wheel alignment with your camping , etc., stuff on board fresh water tank and holding tanks about 1/2 full. Some RV owners invest in stabilizer bars, special shocks, airbags, and special alignment settings, etc. and some claim much better handling after the upgrades. Most Class C's have a harsh ride on weather and heavy truck-damaged rough interstate highway surfaces. The rear springs on many RV's are quite stiff to handle heavy cargo in the rear.

You may learn to "live with" typical handling and harsh ride issues. We have always taken frequent rest stops to stretch, walk around and sit on solid ground to calm nerves from driving on rough roads. Try making reservations or finding an RV park in afternoon time to settle down for the night, avoid "no vacancy" problems and anxiety of trying to find a place to park at night.

Enjoy the ride, taking secondary asphalt paved roads with better scenery when practical. Try to keep speeds around 55mph for best fuel economy and more relaxed driving. Use lower gear on downgrades to save your brakes. Pull out when safe to let the parade pass, ignore "hand gestures" from passing cars. Change lanes carefully and plan ahead for off ramps and merges using your GPS.

[Snowman9000]

I will add this tidbit. Your front tires probably do not need 80 psi. On certain cars and SUVs I have created better tracking and calmer steering by running higher pressure in rear tires than fronts. This is an old car-tuning trick. Of course, you have to have enough in the fronts to carry the loads. To figure out the possibilities, you have to weigh your RV and then look up the front tire weight loads in an RV tire inflation table. Then you can run whatever PSI it gives. RV makers just say run them full, but they are not the ones living with the RV on the road.

Maybe someone who has done this can tell us if it helped calm down the steering.