How I level my trailer

[theoldwizard1]

Okay it is only a pop up, but the procedure should work on any trailer with jacks at all 4 corners and a tongue jack.

First, get yourself some of those inexpensive level indicators. Place them on the front, left side, and buy an extra one for the back.

Start by "eyeballing" the trailer as it sits, BEFORE you disconnect the tow vehicle, and decide if you need any spacers under the tires or not.

Now with the tow vehicle unhooked and move out of the way, lower the tongue jack until the trailer is clearly leaning forward. Place/lower your 2 jacks in the back and raise the tongue jack until your trailer is approximately level, front to back. Check the rear, side to side level. Likely you will have to lower the tongue jack and adjust on or the other rear jacks.

With the rear level side to side, raise the tongue jack until you are clearly above level (nose high). Place/lower the front jacks. Lower the tongue jack and check the front side to side level and the side front to rear level. Adjust as required.

This may seem like a lot of fiddling but using the tongue jack is a lot simpler than trying to jack a corner (unless it is a tiny amount).

[IHnutz]

1) Unhook the truck
2) Push the "auto level" button
3) Go have a beer!!!!

[SoundGuy]

trackdude wrote:
We have a relatively light-weight travel trailer which seems to start out level side-to-side but the weight of the slide out takes it off level. I watched a YouTube video that said it was OK to put the slide out first, then drive up on leveling blocks.

Any comments? I have not tried it yet.

Seems like a bad idea to me. My shallow slide does have some impact on "perfect" side-to-side level but I find it just as easy to offset the trailer's side-to-side level by 1/2 bubble and once the slide is out it all seems to work out pretty well. I do find this much easier to judge with this large bubble level I affixed to the front of the trailer.

[trackdude]

We have a relatively light-weight travel trailer which seems to start out level side-to-side but the weight of the slide out takes it off level. I watched a YouTube video that said it was OK to put the slide out first, then drive up on leveling blocks.

Any comments? I have not tried it yet.

[bikendan]

Having owned 2 popups, I can tell you that their lightweight frames bend easily.
Any jacking of the frame can affect door assembly, deploying of bed ends, attaching canvas, roof raising.

Level side to side with blocks under the wheel and front to back with tongue jack.

[beemerphile1]

theoldwizard1 wrote:
...I was referring to real JACKS, not "stabilizers". The need to be UNDER the trailer on preferably on the frame corner.

Third, I should have explained, my method only will pick up a corner about 1-2". Most of the weight is still on the axle/tires.

The concern isn't really the jacks, they are inexpensive and easily replaced. The concern is the torque exerted on the frame. The weight is engineered to be on the frame at the axle, not at the corners. You get away with it because of the short length of the popup.

On a larger/heavier trailer there is a great risk of bending the frame, that is why it is bad advice.

[stx_dead_I]

Saw someone destroy a jack on a 25ft trailer doing this. Definitely a no-go

[wa8yxm]

When I had a PUP and then a solid trailer and now a Class A

I used the inexpensive bubble levels (Still do) and as the original poster did. Eyeball. Sometimes I can hit level by moving the RV a bit one way or the other.

THen based on the amount of "Bubble off" I lay plank 2x12" (Tire width is about 11 inches) and drive up on them, I may lay 1,2.3 more as needed making a proper pile of it.

Once level I drop jacks since they don't work well

But with the proper planking I can usually hit level.

True story. Man with a 5th wheel trying same procedure having no luck gettin wheels on to plank properly. Told him "Get it level and I'll pick it up and you can move the planks, I can only lift 12 tons" (Got that look, You know, the "Are you from outer space" Well while he was working at getting level I took my wagon (Garden wagon) over to the proper bay and loaded up an air compressor and a 12 ton air/hydraulic jack-jack.... (he then understood how I planned on doing the heavy lifting.. With just two fingers no less)

[TNGW1500SE]

bdpreece wrote:
" How I level my trailer"

How I level my motorhome:
I ask my wife which corner is low and raise it even if the level shows otherwiw0ise.

If that does not work I lay her on the floor and which ever way she rolls is low.

I use the bubble levels and then my wife tells me where the levels are wrong and I correct it. Then we fine tune it again in about a half and hour.

[Lwiddis]

Soundguy, those pictures were just prior to a tire rotation, then a brake overhaul and grease repacking...so then its ok, right?

[troubledwaters]

theoldwizard1 wrote:
First, I would never try this !

Second, I was referring to real JACKS, not "stabilizers". The need to be UNDER the trailer on preferably on the frame corner.

Third, I should have explained, my method only will pick up a corner about 1-2". Most of the weight is still on the axle/tires.

The problem is, a very small percentage of trailers out there (possibly 5% or less) have "Real Jacks" under them. You could be doing a disservice to newbies on here who may not know there is a difference and read what you say then implement it.

[theoldwizard1]

SoundGuy wrote:


How NOT To Level ANY Trailer

First, I would never try this !

Second, I was referring to real JACKS, not "stabilizers". The need to be UNDER the trailer on preferably on the frame corner.

Third, I should have explained, my method only will pick up a corner about 1-2". Most of the weight is still on the axle/tires.

[Lynnmor]

The owners manual for the popup I had 40 years ago described how to change a tire. Just lower the tongue jack all the way down, then drop the rear jacks and then run the tongue jack up till the tires clear the road. Worked just fine, but not a good idea for a larger trailer.

[beemerphile1]

theoldwizard1 wrote:
Okay it is only a pop up, but the procedure should work on any trailer with jacks at all 4 corners and a tongue jack.

First, get yourself some of those inexpensive level indicators. Place them on the front, left side, and buy an extra one for the back.

Start by "eyeballing" the trailer as it sits, BEFORE you disconnect the tow vehicle, and decide if you need any spacers under the tires or not.

Now with the tow vehicle unhooked and move out of the way, lower the tongue jack until the trailer is clearly leaning forward. Place/lower your 2 jacks in the back and raise the tongue jack until your trailer is approximately level, front to back. Check the rear, side to side level. Likely you will have to lower the tongue jack and adjust on or the other rear jacks.

With the rear level side to side, raise the tongue jack until you are clearly above level (nose high). Place/lower the front jacks. Lower the tongue jack and check the front side to side level and the side front to rear level. Adjust as required.

This may seem like a lot of fiddling but using the tongue jack is a lot simpler than trying to jack a corner (unless it is a tiny amount).

Keep putting all that weight on those stabilizer jacks and some day you will turn your unit into a taco. Bad advice.

[Hank_MI]

Some trailers have levelers, either hydraulic or electric. The frames are designed to be lifted by the levelers. Stabilizers are a different story. The trailer frame is designed to have the weight on wheels and tongue jack. As mentioned when you start lifting the trailer with corner stabilizers the frame will bow and doors may no longer close, etc. If they were meant to lift the trailer they would be built a lot sturdier than what most are.