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Gray Tank Insulation

Planning
Explorer
Explorer
We embarked upon checking our galley gray tank (35 gallon) on our fifth-wheel after reading about poorly/unsupported holding tanks dropping.

First the good: the holding tank brackets appear sufficient, fore, aft and sideways.








Skipping right to the ugly: The manufacturer says that this model provides "Heated Holding Tanks" and "All-Conditions/Four Seasons Insulation". There is a heating duct to the forward holding tanks (FW70, Gray 67, Black 65), but in examining the galley gray tank I could find no ducting. I used a camera to examine the recess on top of the tank and still could not see any location for a heating duct.

To make matters worse, the "All-Conditions/Four Seasons Insulation" for the galley tank consisted of something that looked like a threadbare, slightly moldy toupee bought at the secondhand outlet, and originally purchased as a gag gift from the dollar store. It might have had an insulation value of R-0.5 The dollar store toupee, all 1/2 inch of it, rested upon the coroplast that is the โ€œfloorโ€ of the gray tank hold.

The area surrounding the tank is all steel bulkhead walls; the opposite side of those are exposed exterior. There was no insulation in the surrounding space of the tank hold.

Here is a photo showing the tank hold:



Water had obviously sprayed/seeped under the edges of the coroplast and rust was making headway on the flange of the hold bulkheads. I wire brushed and cleaned them with brake cleaner, then refinished all of the problem areas with Rustoleum โ€œProfessionalโ€.

For insulation I used 2 inch thick R-10 Dow blue board, and went all of the way around the hold. (The ceiling of the hold is a membrane/wrap material and is the floor of the 5ver.)

Here is a photo of the sidewall insulation.



For the bottom of the tank I used the same Dow product. The insulation for this area is now better by orders of magnitude. We do not use the RV in winter, but I am now more confident that minor overnight freezing will not be problematic.



To close up the coroplast I added stainless steel fender washers to the original screws and Loctite thread locker tape.



I also added 3/4 inch butyl tape around the entire perimeter of the hold flange to enhance the seal from the aforementioned spray and seepage.

Here it is all buttoned up.







The original insulation is a combination of poor design, shoddy workmanship, and a strange definition of โ€œFour Seasons Insulationโ€
2016 AF 29-5K; 2016 F350 6.7, 4x4, CCLB DRW
5 REPLIES 5

Planning
Explorer
Explorer
RollandB wrote:
I was surprised to see the area covered by the Coroplast showing a bit more surface rust than the frame totally exposed.


There was no seal (rubber, caulk or tape) of any type between the coroplast and flange around the perimeter. Any moisture that enters that area (I think that driving on wet roads creates a large amount of spray) will in turn not quickly evaporate since it is not, as you mentioned, "exposed".

Either the design engineer did not foresee such an obvious issue, or the assembly team did not build as designed.

I am hoping that full perimeter installation of butyl tape will prevent water entry.

I would have provided a photo of the insulation "toupee" (matted like a dog that had rolled in bovine excrement) but it was too gag worthy to retain for documentation.
2016 AF 29-5K; 2016 F350 6.7, 4x4, CCLB DRW

RollandB
Explorer
Explorer
Nicely done improvements. Owning a 2016 AF 27-5L, I was recently adding a bracket to the frame for JT Steongarms so needed to cut back the Coraplast in two small area. I was surprised to see the area covered by the Coraplast showing a bit more surface rust than the frame totally exposed. Next summers project!
2013 Yukon

2021 Coachmen Spirit 1943RB

Blazing_Zippers
Explorer II
Explorer II
I thought AF would have done a better job. The craftsmanship you described is pretty sad.
You did a great job insulating---

Planning
Explorer
Explorer
newman fulltimer wrote:
Wait till you figure that heat duct actually sucks more cold air into the heater than it puts in the belly


I am puzzled how it would do that. The duct is on the outflow side of the heater, and is a branch duct from the main duct/plenum that runs from the heater for the length of the RV.

Here is the holding tank duct:

and here is the main (at the top left of the picture) that is comes from:
2016 AF 29-5K; 2016 F350 6.7, 4x4, CCLB DRW

newman_fulltime
Explorer
Explorer
Wait till you figure that heat duct actually sucks more cold air into the heater than it puts in the belly