My Cheap Heat install

[rhagfo]

Well decided to go with the "Cheap Heat" system in our 5th wheel.
I did the install as a DYI, have done enough electrical work to feel comfortable with the high voltage work.
I read all the documents on line and the clearance needs, well I new it would be a snug fit.
I ordered the kit which is very complete with exceiption of the high voltage parts. I spent about another $150 for the necessary high voltage parts, and other needs.
This is the major parts I bought;
Square D QO 30 amp disconnect cabinet
Square D QO 30 amp breaker
Ground bar for 30 amp disconnect
Square D Home line 20 amp single breaker
15' coil of 10/3 with ground wire
25' coil of 10/2 with ground wire
2'X4' piece of heave sheet metal (I needed to extend the duct a bit).
The instructions are very clear and complete, I have it rigged so that in Spring, Summer, and Fall if 50 amp service is not available I can changeover to operate on a 30 amp shore connection. This would take about 10 minutes to move some of the line voltage connections.
I found even though I had improved the seal between the furnace and floor once the install was done the furnace worked better, with better air flow on gas. This was due to the old design the hot air really didn't have good air flow over the heat exchanger it only partly passed over it before going down into the duct.

So we are Currently dealing with temps in the high 20's at night and the 5,000 watt (17,060 btu) output is keeping us at 68 degrees.

This is the furnace under the sink location with a home fabricated 3" duct extension between the OEM furnace and Cheap Heat exchanger.


This is the 3" duct I built out of heavy sheet metal, would have been nice to have a sheet metal brake!



This is the 30 amp disconnect and the control box.



The best part of all the Gas / Electric switch!


Sorry for any typos and weird typing posted from my iPhone.

[pianotuna]

That is why I have 3 shore power cords. The OEM 30, a 20 and a 15 amp. The additional ones power outlets intended for heaters in the winter. My peak load is 7000 watts (measured).

I have a break out box intended for use with a 50 pedestal which includes breakers for 30 amp (one leg) and dual 20 amp lines (the other leg).

Cheap heat is now fairly priced but still lacks (for me) one essential item.

I prefer to use various stand alone heaters where I limit power to no more than 600 watts. I've replaced all but 2 outlets on my RV to allow me to draw full power from them safely.

I use an autoformer which allows me to have little or no voltage drop to the RV, no matter the power source. That means my heaters do run at their rated wattage.

rhagfo wrote:
Running 1,500'watts on a 15 amp circuit will be running just over 12.5 amp slightly greater than 80%, and with the voltage drop over an extension cord is not a great plan.

[RollandB]

Thanks Russ!

[rhagfo]

Old Duck wrote:
Russ, when you ran the 10 gauge wire, did you use romex or stranded?

It's been a few years since I looked at the prices of Cheap Heat, but I thought they were more spendy that what you mentioned. May have to resume shopping.....;-)

Regular romex, that was the hardest part was getting the 30 amp breaker box weird as it is pretty tight, all other connections were easy.
I bought directly from RV Comfort Systems for $545

http://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/#

[RollandB]

Russ, when you ran the 10 gauge wire, did you use romex or stranded?

It's been a few years since I looked at the prices of Cheap Heat, but I thought they were more spendy that what you mentioned. May have to resume shopping.....;-)

[Cummins12V98]

Thanks. Yes my breaker is 30a.

[Lantley]

Yes I agree 1500 is a tad too much as well, but it's better than 1800 watts

[rhagfo]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Because you can't run 1800 watts on a 15 amp household circuit, without exceeding the 80% maximum for continuous draws. So visiting friends and using electric heat becomes problematic.

rhagfo wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

The 1800 watts is one of my objections to the system. 1500 would be so much more useful.

:h
Not sure why, at 1,800 watts it is drawing 15 amps, you still have 9 amps available when the furnace is running. If you need more just turn the furnace off for the time needed.

Running 1,500'watts on a 15 amp circuit will be running just over 12.5 amp slightly greater than 80%, and with the voltage drop over an extension cord is not a great plan.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Because you can't run 1800 watts on a 15 amp household circuit, without exceeding the 80% maximum for continuous draws. So visiting friends and using electric heat becomes problematic.

rhagfo wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

The 1800 watts is one of my objections to the system. 1500 would be so much more useful.

:h
Not sure why, at 1,800 watts it is drawing 15 amps, you still have 9 amps available when the furnace is running. If you need more just turn the furnace off for the time needed.

[rhagfo]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

The 1800 watts is one of my objections to the system. 1500 would be so much more useful.

:h
Not sure why, at 1,800 watts it is drawing 15 amps, you still have 9 amps available when the furnace is running. If you need more just turn the furnace off for the time needed.

[rhagfo]

Bill.Satellite wrote:
I posted this earlier but it disappeared. Am I correct that you are using 42 amps to run your heater? i.e. 21 amps on each leg?

According to the documentation 20.8 amps on each leg of the dual poll 30 amp breaker. So yes 21 amps. 🙂

[Bill_Satellite]

I posted this earlier but it disappeared. Am I correct that you are using 42 amps to run your heater? i.e. 21 amps on each leg?

[pianotuna]

Hi,

The 1800 watts is one of my objections to the system. 1500 would be so much more useful.

[rhagfo]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"running 5,000 watt setting (17,060 btu) and staying warm."

Is there more than one setting? I know nothing of this.

The systems has three possable wattage setting, settings are;
1,800 watts, 120 volts, 20 amp.
3,750 watts, 240 volts, 20 amp.
5,000 watts, 240 volts, 30 amp.

Yours is most likely set at 5,000 watts based on size of your rig. I have a 240 volt 30 amp setup, but also have a provision to run it on a 30 amp power post, to set back to the 1,800 watt setting. It will require moving a couple connections, moving the controller box to a 120 V, 20 amp breaker, and at the heating element down to the 1,800 watt connection.
I am sure the 1,800 watt setting will do fine in the summer, and likely late spring and early fall.
It is part of the beauty of the system, one kit that can be configured three differnt ways.

[Cummins12V98]

"running 5,000 watt setting (17,060 btu) and staying warm."

Is there more than one setting? I know nothing of this.