cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Help wiring bathroom vent fan

stevennlv
Explorer
Explorer
OK, first things first: Dunt danna na! Super genius fails to take picture and falls flat on face!

I'm almost at the end of an ordeal and need just one last little piece of info to cross the finish line.

So the "removable" screen in the bathroom vent and the plastic frame it clips in to disintegrated when I removed the screen for cleaning.

Found parts, order parts, got parts, tried to install parts.

The fan switch was parma-wired in place with crimp connectors and no slack wire. So, after I cut things apart I couldn't get them back together. So I tried to jerry rig it and blew the fuse.

And of course I failed to take a pic of how the switch was wired in b/c "this will only take 5 minutes"!

And of course I don't know jack from squat b/c the only electrical stuff I ever did as labor was to carry the electrician's toolbox and bring him spools and boxes.

So several weeks later, after tons of research, gettin a new fan kit with new motor and new wires and finding all the connectors needed (all of the appropriate gauges, resistances, compositions and impedances) to replicate exactly what was in place to begin with (after the order assistance techs at etrailer.com failed to return my calls) and a voltmeter and a wire tool to put it together what's the one thing I can't find any where in the googles?

A wiring diagram, of course!

Anybody got a link to a wiring diagram for a 12v dc fan on an simple on/off rocker switch?

Any assistance greatly appreciated!!!

Super genius up, up and away to tear up something else!
17 REPLIES 17

TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Explorer
Glad you got it working again.

stevennlv
Explorer
Explorer
OK, so the wife and I got it all wired and put back together without burning up the trailer.

Thanks to everybody for the help.

I learned a lot on this project and I wanted to pass along some of the things I learned to help other new people.

This whole process started when I tried to remove (unclip) for cleaning the so-called โ€œremovableโ€ screen in the bathroom vent and both the screen and the frame it clips in to disintegrated in my hand.

So I got a replacement kit:

Screen and frame

But, the fan switch was permanently wired in to the frame that holds the screen. The wire connectors were not reusable. They were crimp, not screw. So I cut it apart (only way to get it apart) and that's where things became a mess. I tried to jerry-rig back together; which blew a fuse.

So, these are the things I learned on my very first ever electrical / โ€œsemi-deepโ€ RV project (besides the safety stuff like make sure the power is off and you don't grab two wires at once):

1) Starting to fix one thing in an RV can quickly lead to you having to fix something else. Even if the second thing is not necessarily actually โ€œbrokenโ€ to begin with.

2) If you run in to stuff with wiring that is โ€œin the wayโ€ of getting your project done then take lots of pictures of how it all goes back together just in case it's not a five minute fix and it takes you a couple of weeks to get parts or figure how how to fix it.

3) Don't try to jerry rig it. Fix it the right way. I'm lucky all I did the first time was blow a fuse.

4) I am not an electrician. I would still be hesitant to tackle something more complex. If you're not comfortable with even basic handyman work then hire a professional.

5) All of the numbers on and colors of all of the parts mean stuff. My advice: when rebuilding something get all of the same type of original parts. This is a list of the parts I got to do this project:

Wire connectors

Switch

Spade terminal

Fuses

Motor kit

This project probably would have been a lot easier if the car had not died at the beginning and I had a way back and forth to the hardware store. I'm sure the people there could have helped me find the parts and told me how to put it back together. They are a good resource, use them. But, if you're stuck without help then just remember that all of the numbers on AND all of the colors of stuff (wires, connectors, fuses, etc) mean something when you're dealing with electricity. Take the time to make sure that you are getting the right stuff to do the rebuild / repair. If you put the numbers you find on stuff and the colors of stuff in to google and look at the pictures then you can find the right parts to do the job correctly.

(Note, I decided while I was at it to go ahead and replace the motor too. It was only a few more dollars, came with the right wires and the old one was all covered in crud anyway.)

6) A *good* magnifying glass came in really handy for reading the tiny numbers of the parts. I actually bought a good one to replace my crappy one just for this project.

7) Voltmeters are confusing, complex and require about six hands to operate well. But, if you read the directions carefully several times they are not difficult to use. I had bought one online when reading how to do this project. I got it figured out. But it was a pain in the neck (literally). A nice electrican on here PMed me and told me that for projects like this (DC wiring) you can get a light up pen shaped tool that will tell you which wire is hot (positive) that is easier to use than a meter. Good info, wish I had known before I bought the meter.

๐Ÿ˜Ž With a meter or a pen tool verify which wire is positive and which one is negative before you start working. Most trailers black is positive and white is negative; *most*, not all trailers are wired that way. You need to verify which color wire is what before you start wiring things together. Also, the trailer and the voltmeter do not use the same color codes for the wires. On my voltmeter the positive wire is red and the negative wire is black. So when testing it was red probe to black wire and black probe to white wire.

9) This is not a good project to do with a neck injury. It involves a lot of looking up and working overhead.

10) The replacement wire connectors for this project had to be crimped. I am nowhere near as strong as I used to be between getting older and the neck injury. And my wife is a foot shorter and 100 pounds lighter than me with some old sports injuries of her own. Between us we had a really hard time getting all of the connectors crimped tightly enough so that wires would not pull loose easily. If you have any issues that impair your strength you might want to have a youngster (late teens / early 20's grandkid, whatever) with good upper body / hand strength around to squeeze the crimp connectors for you.

11) There is more than one kind of fuse; with fuses it's not only about colors and numbers. There are different types that are similar but not the same size physically. I honestly don't remember all of the details b/c it's been a couple of weeks since I figured out which fuses it was I need. But, IIRC, there were three different types (ATO, ATM, ATC?) and two of those three would fit in to the the same socket, but one wouldn't (or something like that)? So just make sure that you are actually getting the same thing that was in there before and that it is more than just color / number.

12) This was an expensive project for no more than what I bought and no more than what I did. Now, if I had a way to the hardware store at the moment I might have saved a few dollars. But, since I was shopping online I had to buy stuff like bags of 100 of the connectors that I needed for $7 instead of just a couple. (Maybe I could have bought smaller packs cheaper at the hardware store?) But I also had to buy tools (a voltmeter and a wire stripper / crimper). All told I spent about $90 to fix this. At one point during the process I called one of the mobile RV repair shops in my area, since I don't have a way to take it to the shop right now, to see what they would charge me to fix this. I described to them where I was in the process and what parts I had. Even though everything was already taken apart, I had all of the parts and I figure that it would not have taken a trained professional more tha 20-25 minutes to do the rest of the job and have everything back together they still quoted me $150 to finish the repair. I hate to think what their quote would be if I had asked them to do the whole process and provide the parts.

Thanks for everybody who helped me.

Hopefully this will help the next person some.

TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Explorer
stevennlv wrote:
Thanks @ wnjj, TNGW1500SE and westend for trying to be helpful.

This is just one of many things I'm pickin up on way, way later in life than I should have.

And with the head injury entirely new info can be problematic.

I've scoured the web and cannot find a simple, basic diagram of how to put one of these things together. Maybe in 50 years the net will be as good as a book.

Anyway, one guy in a video had some stuff laid out on a table and gave me a new view from a new angle and I think a light bulb went off.

I attached a crude diagram I made in paint.

Is this what I'm shooting for?



You have just drawn your very first TNGW1500SE approved wiring diagram! No go wire it up.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Correct
When they first started wiring campers/travel trailers for 12v
They were using white and black the same wires that are used for 120vac
So the Mfg made white the negative aka ground and black the positive aka hot

So when you find black and white wires in your 12v trailer circuits, lights, vents , water pump, furnace fan, etc..
Black is the hot positive side and White is the ground negative wire

Trailers do not follow automotive wiring standards
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Bobbo wrote:
That is absolutely correct, with one caveat. If the wall wires are, indeed, black and white, black is USUALLY ground on 12v systems.
Yes, on vehicle 12V, red being scheduled for (+). Trailer standard is that ground is white or gray.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
That is absolutely correct, with one caveat. If the wall wires are, indeed, black and white, black is USUALLY ground on 12v systems.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

wnjj
Explorer II
Explorer II
stevennlv wrote:
Is this what I'm shooting for?


YEP.

Electricity flows in a circle from the supply - through the load and back to the supply +. Switches are there to open or close the circle.

stevennlv
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks @ wnjj, TNGW1500SE and westend for trying to be helpful.

This is just one of many things I'm pickin up on way, way later in life than I should have.

And with the head injury entirely new info can be problematic.

I've scoured the web and cannot find a simple, basic diagram of how to put one of these things together. Maybe in 50 years the net will be as good as a book.

Anyway, one guy in a video had some stuff laid out on a table and gave me a new view from a new angle and I think a light bulb went off.

I attached a crude diagram I made in paint.

Is this what I'm shooting for?

wnjj
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here's the simplest way I can explain it.

Think of the 3 pairs of wires as people. Connect the wire pairs as if the 3 "people" are holding hands in a circle. One wire from switch to fan. Other wire on fan to one wire on the wall. Other wall wire back to remaining switch wire.

If the fan runs backward, swap the fan wires with each other. If a fuse blows, swap the wall wires with each other (in case the switch or fan has a frame ground).

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Go camping, and knock on the door of the next camper over with a cold brew in your hand. :B
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

Johno02
Explorer
Explorer
Take it to someone else to fix if you haven't burned it down yet.
Noel and Betty Johnson (and Harry)

2005 GulfStream Ultra Supreme, 1 Old grouch, 1 wonderful wife, and two silly poodles.

sonora
Explorer
Explorer
old guy wrote:
well the problem is like you say you don't know squat about this. that being said my thoughts are for you to take it in and have it done right before you burn down the joint.


LOL

old_guy
Explorer
Explorer
well the problem is like you say you don't know squat about this. that being said my thoughts are for you to take it in and have it done right before you burn down the joint.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
In the video: after you have the white plastic bezel unclipped so that you can easily access the back of the switch, connect one wire to the motor from the switch and connect the other wire from the switch to your RV's 12V (+) phase/hot. The 12V white or (-) phase/ground will need to follow a path to frame ground. You may have a white (-) wire in the fan location, previously. Ground the fan motor's steel bracket, if possible.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton